1/8 Scale Karelson Hydro

[jfruge]

I have a PHIL THOMAS

RC MARINE DESIGN KARLESON ROUNDNOSE HULL

I am planning to build a 1967 Yellow Bardahl out of to.

I am going to use FE power (brushless / lipo ) but would love to see some pic's of some of these type hulls built.

Any info and pic's would be great! [email protected]

Thanks,

John Fruge

Madera, CA

 

[68Bud]

I have a PHIL THOMAS
RC MARINE DESIGN KARLESON ROUNDNOSE HULL

I am planning to build a 1967 Yellow Bardahl out of to.

I am going to use FE power (brushless / lipo ) but would love to see some pic's of some of these type hulls built.

Any info and pic's would be great! [email protected]

Thanks,

John Fruge

Madera, CA

Hi John,

I have been studying Karelson hulls too for my Miss Budweiser build and there is a really nice Bardahl hull in the this gallery. https://www.intlwaters.com/gallery/index.php?cat=10326 I hope I don't offend Mr. Barnes by posting his gallery here. His boat is really nice. Another modeler here by the name SayMikey has a really nice Redman Karelson.

 

[Ray Barnes]

I have a PHIL THOMAS
RC MARINE DESIGN KARLESON ROUNDNOSE HULL

I am planning to build a 1967 Yellow Bardahl out of to.

I am going to use FE power (brushless / lipo ) but would love to see some pic's of some of these type hulls built.

Any info and pic's would be great! [email protected]

Thanks,

John Fruge

Madera, CA

Hi John,

I have been studying Karelson hulls too for my Miss Budweiser build and there is a really nice Bardahl hull in the this gallery. https://www.intlwaters.com/gallery/index.php?cat=10326 I hope I don't offend Mr. Barnes by posting his gallery here. His boat is really nice. Another modeler here by the name SayMikey has a really nice Redman Karelson.

John,

Thanks for the compliment. No offence taken here... I'm glad someone could find them usefull. In the one gallery where I made new changes by adding some material to the step on the sponsons did really help the boat out. I did get a chance to run the boat with the new changes and it was pretty quick and helped get up on plane faster. Because of the deep sposons I had to drop the strut down to get a good ride out of her. I have yet have it blow over even in a head wind... as long as you don't count hitting bouyes. As you can see in my photos the fuel tank is in the front. It does get a little flighty when the fuel is almost gone but still stays on the water. With a little more tweeks to the engine and skid fin I think this will be a competitive boat next year. Not to mention my driving skills.

 

[eddieh]

I have one of the phil thomas hulls too, will be powering it with electric, and hopefully lipos, I was a bit concerned rereading the "flight" problems but I do think we have the advantage once we set the cg there is no variable from fuel being used, I will also be making it as the 68 Bud (maybe it is 72 the U-12 one) I think it will look great with the 80 griffon bud ( newton plans, mcintyre cowl) and the 80 Bud Back up ( velasko hull) .... this is a great thread..

 

[P THOMAS]

I have one of the phil thomas hulls too, will be powering it with electric, and hopefully lipos, I was a bit concerned rereading the "flight" problems but I do think we have the advantage once we set the cg there is no variable from fuel being used, I will also be making it as the 68 Bud (maybe it is 72 the U-12 one) I think it will look great with the 80 griffon bud ( newton plans, mcintyre cowl) and the 80 Bud Back up ( velasko hull) .... this is a great thread..

Hi eddieh let me see some setup pictures when you get it ready.

I will be building one up in the Timex Red U8 model.

You should be able to balance the hull at the rear of the ride pads with the battery load.

My boat has some curve to the tunnel now.

I plan to make mine with a deeper and more of a curved bottom, maybe put some steps on the sponsons and off set. First I have to get around to making the hull, only thing done is the cowl and the scale motor.

PHIL T

 

[eddieh]

Will do Phil, I have been discussing set up ideas with John fruge, My velasko runs very well with the same CG, and currently can spin a detongued 455 with no serious issues, except if I have a cut or a bump, and have to do a penalty lap, I plan on using speedmaster hardware, I really like the dual pick up rudder, I run one line to the motor, one to the speedo, and i dump the water through the bottom and into the tunnel area, are you adding a little cup to the tunnel bottom going upwards, or a curve going down toward the water? I know I have built smaller hydros off finlay plans that had the cup (towards top of hull) and these worked very very well, she is a gorgeous hull, and it will be interesting to see how a shovel works against the pickle forks, Rogers slo mo was beautiful running electric in 2005.... and i have to say I am a nostalgic kind of guy, I prefer a 67 corvette roadster to a new C6 vette.... so shovels are right up my alley!!

 

[68Bud]

Hi everyone,

Just started posting pictures to my gallery. I am beginning the build of my Miss Budweiser. She is going to have a Magnum .91 4-stroke with an overdrive gearbox of my own design. My intent is to have a nice handling, good looking scale boat with a realistic exhaust note. I'm just a sport boater so speed is not my primary concern, I just hope it doesn't plow like a tug, haha. I originally began this thread to gather info on radio box configuration and hull layout so if anyone has any suggestions or comments, please chime on in. By the way, do people post build threads on this forum? Thanks,

Scott

 

[dschigoda]

"...Miss Budweiser. She is going to have a Magnum .91 4-stroke with an overdrive gearbox of my own design. "

Very interesting project. I have also thought about using a 4-stroke for a sport (play) hydroplane. It appears from your photo gallery that you will be using an air cooled .90. I am thinking that air cooling would not be enough, unless you installed some sort of fan and mini duct work. How do you plan to cool the engine? Add a water jacket? Use a different 4 stroke? Or? :huh:

Dave

 

[68Bud]

"...Miss Budweiser. She is going to have a Magnum .91 4-stroke with an overdrive gearbox of my own design. "
Very interesting project. I have also thought about using a 4-stroke for a sport (play) hydroplane. It appears from your photo gallery that you will be using an air cooled .90. I am thinking that air cooling would not be enough, unless you installed some sort of fan and mini duct work. How do you plan to cool the engine? Add a water jacket? Use a different 4 stroke? Or? :huh:

Dave

Hi Dave,

I am open to ideas on water cooling. I don't think there would be room enough in the hull for a fan and ductwork so water cooling is the plan. My first attempt will be a simple tubing coil wrapped around the fins. I am also looking into the Octura cool clamps. Sadly, the hobby shop I go to is a sorry excuse when it comes to boat supplies, so if you know of an Octura dealer let me know. With either of those options some contouring of the fins will be necessary to make them cylindrical. It's going to be a challenge to make it work, but it sure would be cool to hear a 4-stroke hydro thundering across the lake, keep us posted on your build. Thanks,

Scott

 

[dschigoda]

"...Miss Budweiser. She is going to have a Magnum .91 4-stroke with an overdrive gearbox of my own design. "
Very interesting project. I have also thought about using a 4-stroke for a sport (play) hydroplane. It appears from your photo gallery that you will be using an air cooled .90. I am thinking that air cooling would not be enough, unless you installed some sort of fan and mini duct work. How do you plan to cool the engine? Add a water jacket? Use a different 4 stroke? Or? :huh:

Dave

Hi Dave,

I am open to ideas on water cooling. I don't think there would be room enough in the hull for a fan and ductwork so water cooling is the plan. My first attempt will be a simple tubing coil wrapped around the fins. I am also looking into the Octura cool clamps. Sadly, the hobby shop I go to is a sorry excuse when it comes to boat supplies, so if you know of an Octura dealer let me know. With either of those options some contouring of the fins will be necessary to make them cylindrical. It's going to be a challenge to make it work, but it sure would be cool to hear a 4-stroke hydro thundering across the lake, keep us posted on your build. Thanks,

Scott

Scott,

I agree, a cool (kool?) clamp would be the answer. That way you could get much more contact area for cooling the engine versus coiled tubing. Try http://www.alshobbyshop.com/store/index.asp for a source. Maybe someone reading this knows of a source for Octura Cool Clamps.

Dave

 

[68Bud]

Hey Dave,

Thanks for the link. The site doesn't have an online catalogue yet, so I will try to contact them after the holiday weekend to see if they can order Octura items. Have you thought anymore about your 4-stroke project?

Scott

 

[dschigoda]

Hey Dave,
Thanks for the link. The site doesn't have an online catalogue yet, so I will try to contact them after the holiday weekend to see if they can order Octura items. Have you thought anymore about your 4-stroke project?

Scott

--------------------------

Scott,

My only though so far would be to have the fins machined down so that you would have a bare cylindrical shape near the top of the cylinder. That way you would have good heat transfer to the cool clamp. A good machinist could tell you if and how it could be done. Or you could "google - water cooled 4 stroke model marine engines" and see what is available for purchase. I think OS makes or made one at one time.

I also think it would be cool to route the exhaust out through scale looking headers! You could use aluminum tubes and JB Weld, and maybe water cool the portion of the header nearest the engine to keep the exhaust temperatures down, in order to protect the glue joints farther downstream. I can just picture the exhaust blasting out of 12 pipes as it roars by [insert engine sounds here] ! :lol:

I currently have several vintage motorcycle projects cluttering my shop, so my current priority is to get organized and sell off enough stuff to make some room in my shop - before I start a new project. But I do enjoy dreaming up new projects.

Dave

 

[68Bud]

Hey Dave,
Thanks for the link. The site doesn't have an online catalogue yet, so I will try to contact them after the holiday weekend to see if they can order Octura items. Have you thought anymore about your 4-stroke project?

Scott

--------------------------

Scott,

My only though so far would be to have the fins machined down so that you would have a bare cylindrical shape near the top of the cylinder. That way you would have good heat transfer to the cool clamp. A good machinist could tell you if and how it could be done. Or you could "google - water cooled 4 stroke model marine engines" and see what is available for purchase. I think OS makes or made one at one time.

I also think it would be cool to route the exhaust out through scale looking headers! You could use aluminum tubes and JB Weld, and maybe water cool the portion of the header nearest the engine to keep the exhaust temperatures down, in order to protect the glue joints farther downstream. I can just picture the exhaust blasting out of 12 pipes as it roars by [insert engine sounds here] ! :lol:

I currently have several vintage motorcycle projects cluttering my shop, so my current priority is to get organized and sell off enough stuff to make some room in my shop - before I start a new project. But I do enjoy dreaming up new projects.

Dave

Hey Dave,

You are right on the money. The best way to cool the cylinder would be to fabricate a cooling jacket. The top of the cylinder is not round even if the fins are removed, there are 5 bosses for the head bolts that stick out. I'll try the cool clamp first, do some bench testing and see what happens. Scale headers would be awesome too, but wow, what a project. Ironic that you are into vintage iron too. What are your project bikes?

Scott

 

[eddieh]

Ya know, you could silver brass tube to do it, I think the exhaust would be cool, but then again I think working gauges would be cool too....LOL

but seriously, it would work, you could even cross drill an inner tube several times from both axis, and insert it into a larger tube once it is assembeled you could plate it with a cheap kit from caswell....

 

[68Bud]

Ya know, you could silver brass tube to do it, I think the exhaust would be cool, but then again I think working gauges would be cool too....LOL
but seriously, it would work, you could even cross drill an inner tube several times from both axis, and insert it into a larger tube once it is assembeled you could plate it with a cheap kit from caswell....

Hey Eddie,

Sorry, but I don't understand what you are describing, could you explain it further?

Scott

 

[dschigoda]

Hey Dave,

You are right on the money. The best way to cool the cylinder would be to fabricate a cooling jacket. The top of the cylinder is not round even if the fins are removed, there are 5 bosses for the head bolts that stick out. I'll try the cool clamp first, do some bench testing and see what happens. Scale headers would be awesome too, but wow, what a project. Ironic that you are into vintage iron too. What are your project bikes?

Scott

Scott,

My remaining vintage project bikes are an old MX racer - Bultaco Pursang 250 'Jim Pomeroy Replica' 1974 [runs, but not restored], a '74 Yamaha YZ 500 MX [parts bike, no motor], a '77 Yamaha XS-650 [to be parted-out on the internet], and lots of extra parts, books, and old Cycle World, Dirt Bike magazines. I have already sold an unrestored Bultaco Matador 350 [Enduro bike], a pristine 1976 XS-650. I have traded a fully restored Bultaco Sherpa T 350 Trials bike for a 2002 GasGas 280 TXT Edition Trials bike. I have been competing in modern Observed Trials events in Wisconsin/Illinois/Iowa for the past several years, and after being away for 23 years, I have worked my way back to the "Advanced Class". If you are interested, here is a link to the Wisconsin Observed Trials Association (WOTA) site. http://www.wisconsintrials.org/forum/ .

Dave

 

[68Bud]

Scott,

My remaining vintage project bikes are an old MX racer - Bultaco Pursang 250 'Jim Pomeroy Replica' 1974 [runs, but not restored], a '74 Yamaha YZ 500 MX [parts bike, no motor], a '77 Yamaha XS-650 [to be parted-out on the internet], and lots of extra parts, books, and old Cycle World, Dirt Bike magazines. I have already sold an unrestored Bultaco Matador 350 [Enduro bike], a pristine 1976 XS-650. I have traded a fully restored Bultaco Sherpa T 350 Trials bike for a 2002 GasGas 280 TXT Edition Trials bike. I have been competing in modern Observed Trials events in Wisconsin/Illinois/Iowa for the past several years, and after being away for 23 years, I have worked my way back to the "Advanced Class". If you are interested, here is a link to the Wisconsin Observed Trials Association (WOTA) site. http://www.wisconsintrials.org/forum/ .

Dave

Dave,

The only thing your bikes and the bikes I'm into have in common is they are both really hard to kick over, lol. I have limited experience with old MX stuff, but when I was a kid my neighbor had a Bultaco...what a beast, loud, hard to start, and just gnarly. It had a cool chrome tank though. I have a 1952 Indian Chief, police model. It is completely restored and the motor only has about a 100 miles on it, so I'm really stoked about getting in the wind this summer. Good luck with your bikes and models.

Scott

 

[eddieh]

Ya know, you could silver brass tube to do it, I think the exhaust would be cool, but then again I think working gauges would be cool too....LOL
but seriously, it would work, you could even cross drill an inner tube several times from both axis, and insert it into a larger tube once it is assembeled you could plate it with a cheap kit from caswell....

Hey Eddie,

Sorry, but I don't understand what you are describing, could you explain it further?

Scott

scott I would use sizes of brass tube to make a baffle you would drill holes in the inner one, and it would be shrouded by the outer one like a glass pack muffler without the fiberglass, I have used a cheap nickle plater from caswell to "chrome" some parts made of brass etc .. this was for the scale headers...