Terry Heddin
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I should have stated in my original post. I meant for GAS engines, not glow.
After-run Oil
- Thread starter Terry Heddin
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No one has them in stock, just spoke to Harry at speemaster and he still doesn't know when he will get them.
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Made my own blow plug years ago by taking an old plug, drilling from the bottom down thru the center lengthwise. Put a piece of brass tubbing through and soldered that. Bought a production blow plug... just to see what it was. Gave it away. Like my home made much better. Even with a length of hose on the end of that brass tube, you can spin the brass with two fingers (to a point...). Have to let the hose catch up to your spinning the plug! The other one you have to use two hands to start it and slower to thread it in. Mine, I think you're less likely to cross thread it as well. The production one was just too bulky after using my self made one.
Ken
Ken
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Do you make these to sell?
dr gary turner
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I quit using WD 40.
It has a very very fine abrasive material in it.
That’s why it works so well on a stuck or rusted hinge
Have been using Nut Case spray as a flush then Corrosion X.
It has a very very fine abrasive material in it.
That’s why it works so well on a stuck or rusted hinge
Have been using Nut Case spray as a flush then Corrosion X.
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Grim may not have seen this so I’ll add my 2 cents which may or may not be exact. The jist of it applies to Corrosion X or other corrosion specific fluids. They work on a molecular level and penetrate into the metal surface. In the case of the glow plug wire, it’s shielded in the plug housing and would be almost impossible to clean out. Thus it remains in/on the wire and when lit and under compression causes a problem with the catalytic capability of the wire/glow plug.
Grimracer
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that is my understanding as well.. we have the BEST people here!
The lesson for me was in glow airplanes/helis. When the engine dies when you remove the glow driver.. (ya have had that right, hey.. it glows, but wont keep running.. hum...) you have lost the needed amount of platinum to make it run. That loss is compounded when the "pickle" oils we are talking about saturate the wire.
Grim
The lesson for me was in glow airplanes/helis. When the engine dies when you remove the glow driver.. (ya have had that right, hey.. it glows, but wont keep running.. hum...) you have lost the needed amount of platinum to make it run. That loss is compounded when the "pickle" oils we are talking about saturate the wire.
Grim
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You might check with Alan Elzer (sp) Bam Racing on here. I think he made some awhile back.
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Make your own from old plugs, brass tubing, Stay-Clean acid flux, Stay-Brite Silver bearing solder and soldering iron.
Save yourself a bunch of money and sell them for $5/ea
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Buckshot's blow plug would work. I may opt out for a smaller tube to attach a hose to. Like I said before, it spins a little faster between a couple fingers. I don't run gas so I don't know if a larger diameter hose is necessary...
Ken
Ken
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Wow, thanks for the explanation, guys. You learn something new every day in this hobby.
Brian
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If you’re one of those that like to spray their after run through the spray bar in the carb the Rislone will work better if thinned. A few of us bugged Rislone (they are local to a few of us in Michigan) and they would not share so I got out all my solvents and tested which would stay in solution for 24 hours. Acetone (surprise) was the only one that worked. I’ve been using an 80-20 mix with 80% being Rislone and am happy with it. It does depend on your carb a spray bar so it may take some experimenting but is worth it. Rislone really clings to bare metal. I use it straight as an assembly lube for new or rebuilt engines. 
longballlumber
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The Murany's turned me onto this stuff. I like it but, you're right, it's thick!
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Jim Wilson introduced us both to it at Hobart many years ago. If you knew him then you know the amount of research and testing he did before recommending it to anyone.
Marvel Mystery Oil and ATF have similar viscosity. ATF is quite thin as far as lubricants are concerned. It will find its way into the smallest corners of a transmission and will find its way into the tightest spots in your engine. But, because it is so thin, it will also leak out of your engine through the bearings. Rislone is substantially thicker than ATF/Marvel Mystery oil So, it is not likely to leak out of your engine, or find its way into the tightest places. I mix ATF and Rislone 50/50 as my after run oil. I'm not saying that it is the best, but it is what I like. The most imortant part is to throughly flush your engine after running. It's not just the water that will harm your engine parts, nitro causes damage as well. After flushing the engine, I turn the engine over to disperse the oil throughout the engine. After run oil is cheap as compared to engine parts.
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Very wise words....thank you, Al.
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