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Jeffmaturo

Prop Gauge

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I do all my own props. I've been using the Steve Woods gauge here for over ten years. I don't do a prop without using the gauge.

 

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Terry that is a very nice little unit. Did you make it? 

 

 

 

Tony, so that is a gauge you would recommend? Thanks 

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8 hours ago, Jeffmaturo said:

 

 

 

 

Tony, so that is a gauge you would recommend? Thanks 

Most definitely

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Fellas,

I do close to 500 to 1000+ propellers a year for the last 18 years and I own three of

Steve Wood's pitch gauges. Easy to use and quite accurate for most situations.

The Frank Orlic gauge which I have two of them also, are Very Accurate especially with a 

digital readout. You need something if you really want great performance from your

set ups. With casted propellers there is quite a difference between blades sometimes,

the only way you can fix them is by measuring them accurately, both gauges can do

that Very Well. You cannot go wrong with either gauge, Steve made his rather simple

and Frank went for a Very Precision Product, but it takes more time to learn Frank's

gauge to get the most out of it in my opinion. Measure and keep testing with either

one. You need to know what you are running, and the only way to do that is buy a 

good measuring tool.

Thanks For Reading,

Mark Sholund

231-590-3023

Props-4-U

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Bob,

Most likely the heavy blade is too long in length from the hub.

I just put them on my lathe and even them up again.

If you are referring to a newer ABC Propeller, I would not suggest bending on them with

 pliers, this will offset the rake angle differently on each blade and it can slow the propeller

down a little bit in some cases. Then re-balance and recheck it. Digital calipers work great.

Thanks For Reading,

Mark Sholund

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Is Frank Orlic still making his? Or is it only available used from another modeler?

 I built my own back in the 70’s, it was extremely accurate and I could map an entire blade but it was tedious to use. I’ve been using one of Steve Wood’s gages for about 6 years now, great tool! Easy to use at the pond or workshop!

 Thanks John 

EB33FED4-4E15-49FD-88CD-B48BF35C0E85.jpeg

CA60CDAE-5BFB-4F11-948E-C126C2C90C38.jpeg

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I think Steve's gauge is a larger version of the venerable Hughey gauge we all used 30 years ago.  

Frank's ART unit is nice and compact but measures the opposite of Steve's, instead of measuring the degrees of rotation for a certain pitch advance it measures pitch advance (in thousands of an inch) for a set number of degrees of rotation (5* at a time if desired).

I like to measure the pitch in the first and last 15* of the blade and use that as my "standard".  I also measure the average of the entire blade but the first and last 15* will tell the story.

Both units are good but Frank's leaves no room to interpolate a reading like Steve's and the Hughey gauges do (22*, 22 1/2* etc.)  Although with Steve's large degree scale the reading is easier.

The numbers are what the numbers are. :)

 

ART_pitch_gauge_005.jpg

 

Edited by Terry Keeley

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What about the location on the blade for either the indicator shaft or the pointer on the Woods gauge  ? I have the Hughey and the Woods gauge and it seems that you would have to pick the "Sweet " spot on the blade to measure or move outward in increments which is tedious . I have heard that 70 % of the blades length out from the hub is the place to check during mods .

 

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Tom,

It all depends on what you want to measure and reference as important.

If you look at Terry’s picture above in post #13 it looks like he is measuring 

Leading Edge Pitch. To some that is an important measurement to how fast

your boat is going to go. With the Wood gauge you can measure this real easy.

You are only going to go as fast as you can rotate your Leading Edge Pitch right?

Have Fun Testing And Enjoy The Competition Next Week,

Mark Sholund

Edited by shoboat

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