Sealing and clear coat

I know we have been over this a lot. Just want to share what in going to try.
I'm a bit afraid to go directly to clear coat on wood. Don't like the dirty look of many epoxies though.
I'm going to try the system 3 silver tip as a sealer. It's nearly colorless and provides some gloss. I'm going to use this to build up some protective coating and decide if I want to put on a 2k clear coat. Trying to keep weight down with thin coats of whatever I do. Then add removable stick on graphics.
Anyone do this on wood boats? Who has a good clear finish on a wood boat and how did you get it?

I am interested in this topic too. I like to use West Systems to seal the wood and would like to be able to use some sort of thin epoxy as a clear coat rather than use automotive paint or something else. Just a thin coat of epoxy that is glossy would be good.

Not sure if KlassCoat clear is really clear (not yellow). If it is, that would be good. Using Imron and other Automotive clear coats makes me sick for a week or more after using so I won't use that any more. I have built a new boat that I would like to show off the wood and carbon, so clear coat is what I would like to use. In the past I have just painted everything one color and let it be....

well,.. as soon as it arrives Ill post some images of what this stuff looks like when it's mixed.. I spoke with system3 engineer and he was very helpful and actually runs a small hydro himself,.. (the kind you ride in),..

He thinks this is what we want..

I think that a coat of epoxy, 1-2 coats primer, 2-3 coats color, and 2-3 coats of clear will add multiple pounds to a sp40 or scale boat.. We will see how this works..

Marty

Try the west system 207 finishing.

Dave

Marty, Klasscoat won't yellow. I use it on my riggers, but the fumes are probably just as bad as shooting automotive paint.

Anthony, I have painted many scale boats with multiple colors and clear and decals and not gained even 6ounces.plus I have used klas kote on sealed wood as a natural look with good results.

Wow. I am definitely not doing things right. I'm not a painter though. Pretty much a paint hack

Any epoxy under that clear coat ? Maybe I just clear it

Any epoxy under that clear coat ? Maybe I just clear it

I have always wanted to try clear coat only, on the outside at least.

My idea is to mix up some catalyzed clear (PPG or whatever), and then brush it on for a coat or 2.

I know it sands very well the next day, and is almost bullet proof as a clear coat, so why not as a sealer?

If it doesn't look right, I can continue with primer, paint and clear (sprayed).

Just thinking out loud...

guys, here is what I have been doing for years. west systems (or similar) to seal it down (wood). prep it as it is the primer, mask and apply colors, leaving what wood you want to show when finished, unmask, scratcher pad with light grey pad , then clear coat entire hull. if you have epoxy cowl,, prep it and 1-2 coats of primer, then paint and then clear coat. I have not sealed in decals with clear on most hulls, buy when I did, I applied one coat of clear, then scratcher padded hull, put on decals, then lightly scratcher padded decals then applied final clear coat. apply 1st clear coat as a tack coat on the decals, let tack up and apply full coat. clear wants to "slide" off decals if you don't do this. of coarse, tack off dust after sanding, I blow it it lightly 1st, then use water to clean off the dust , . use white wiping rags to dry surface , then tack rag it. why water? because at this point if you use chemical as a cleaner, it will attack your product and decals . and if you need chemical cleaner at this point, you are already in trouble. my rule is no chemical cleaner at all. no soap in water. some chemicals like pep sol (solvent), have a solvent in them, (enamel reducers, alcohol) don't, lacquer thinner is not for cleaning (thinner, not cleaner ;-)) if you have a glass bare hull, I use bleach white and scratcher pad and clean before any work is done to remove any contaminents, after that, water only. when using water, allow ample time to let dry, before anything else is done or applied.

Watch your shelf life on the Klass Coat,,if it has been sitting for awhile (over a year),,toss it in favor of some fresh stuff. Just shot some year-old Klass clear on white paint and it showed light yellow on the white after hardening/drying. Really good stuff and easy to shoot,,just waited too long to use it again. Always pick up some of there reducer,,it works the best. Get a good respirator,,because it's a very heavy fume that hangs in the air and you definitely don't want to breathe that in.

It lays out flat as glass and looks really good on natural wood. Would not hesitate on that.

joe, that probably would work, but don't brush, spray it, and it will lift the grain of the wood, can be bladed smooth and polished, my opinion, epoxy it, then clear coat it , and , you don't need primer, my wood hulls don't get primer. scotch brite then mask colors and spray.

dan

Anthony.. I had bad results just shooting clear (KK) on wood only...( sorry, Marty!) I didnt fare well brushing it on either, but learned from that mistake... in my experience you have to use a finishing style epoxy resin to stay clear for the long term, even with clear coats after that.... basically coat with thinned epoxy to seal using the paper towel method, twice, sanding between coats, and then 2 light coats of clear (KK) on that sanding between with scratchie as stated... i will, apply more KK coats the deeper i want the gloss....weight issues... will easily only see 2 coats and always sufficient.... word of warning per I always test first because reaction to polyester(?) resin or whatever resin will gain you a goo mess..( somebody reiterate)... lacquer based epoxy paints are seriously dangerous and i take appropriate clothing and respirator action and even have exhaust fans for dust, and fume control.... KK is very good paint, as I'm a novice painter and the guy formulates it well enough that it lays down even and flattens out great for awesome results.... reading the directions has never failed , and i always shoot as completely as i can ( early day start) to achieve the chemical and mechanical bond as stated.... I'm not experienced enough to try auto paints/clear yet.... although.. the look may be better, it can be achieved with KK... 'luck Mike

2 coats of kk brushed on,sanding between. 2 or 3 ,max, sprayed on sanding between. looks like glass.only way we've have been doing it for years. I do use a respirator.

Ron Logghe got chemical pneumonia twice with emron before we got an outside air source pump and mask. The pneumonia didn't happen again but I still think it was a strong contributor to his developing Parkinson's disease. You can't be too safe when it comes to what you inhale.

John

Seal with Mass epoxy, clear and does NOT yellow, sands great, thin with denatured alcohol. Brushes great. For the supper finish then spray with PPG clear.

My Whip sport 40 tuned out great

Well I messed up and only ordered the resin. Ordering the hardener now. Slight delay in reporting results.

Epoxy sealer much stronger than Any type of Clear Coat or Paint. Epoxy does add structural strength.