ML GSX 480 Hydro build

[Wasted wages]

That's purdey !!

It's going to look awesome with clear coat out in the sunshine ! Nice job!!

 

[Rob Ellis]

Hey Chris - that is looking great. You've done a great job on it and love the paint. That kit is way different construction than the ZippKits. Probably safer with all those separate compartments.

I did a sailboat this summer and learned 17 different ways to screw up a paint job using rattle cans. But learned a lot. I'm no where near ready to attempt something like what you're doing. But have lots of experience priming, filling, sanding (repeat etc), shooting color 2-3 coats letting it flash between and block sanding out my mistakes. Along the way I discovered glazing compound - so easy to work with to fill the shallow issues.

Looks like you'll be ready pretty soon.

 

[RobertDoak]

What caught my eye was the ‘nipples’ that are formed into the tank at the top. That is why I am curious as too who makes that tank

Jack

Looks like a Great Planes take....there tanks have the nipples molded into the tanks...

 

[Chris Kurtz]

I ran all the fuel lines, installed a 10 oz. tank, ran the cooling lines, and installed some hatch latches instead of the magnets I had for the hatch cover. The magnets I didn't think were all that strong.

I still need to add some sort of flotation to the cowl, probably just going to shoot some spray foam in there. I stuck some foam blocks in the hull with a few dabs of silicon to hold them in there.
On the cooling lines I only have a single pickup rudder so I ran an aluminum 3/16" tube from the transom to the engine compartment then large silicon line to the engine, into the header, then out the side. I'm wondering if I should split the lines in the engine compartment and run one line to the engine and one to the header then exit the hull with two separate exits for each. I already have an extra exit in the hull. Or maybe add another pickup behind the prop and run it to the engine and the rudder to the header.
What would you guy's do?

I just need to check the strut depth and I think its ready for some water now that a cold front is moving in here in Oregon and its supposed to get down in the single digits. lol.

Here are a few more pictures.

Any tips or ideas greatly appreciated.

 

[Chris Kurtz]

I will touch up the paint where I modified some things and still need to polish a bit more on the clear coat, I just wanted to get things together.
I had a micro switch ignition cut off from an old model so I made a mount for it using a micro servo to activate it on a third channel. I set the failsafe so both the throttle and the switch should kill the engine in case of low battery or any transmission issues.

 

[Rob Ellis]

Super tidy installation! And the paint looks amazing especially the airbrush work on the rear deck and sides.

As far as cooling goes, I think your idea of splitting the cooling lines is a good one. Otherwise the water going into the header would be preheated slightly. If you can use "Y" fitting instead of a "T", the flow will be more efficient. The pressure will drop in each new path, but volume is more important than pressure. So I think keep the same size after the split. As long as you see 2 streams of water coming out, you're good.

 

[Chris Kurtz]

Yeah that's why I haven't split the lines yet, I don't have a Y fitting, just T's. I'll order some up or maybe add another water pickup also. I like the "Y" idea better than the "T" idea too.

 

[Chris Kurtz]

Some shots taken today on the lake tuning it in.