TS2 kibbles and bits

[Russ Williamson]

Ok Moron (hope you don't mind) I don't mind telling thats what I did as the last resort and it doesn't make any difference to the way it run and the handling is worse.I was just hoping it will get up on speed and don't really care about the handling.At least I can make a tight turn evendo it bounce.But after the plastic installation the boat will hook violently if I make a tight turn.I will try to snap some picture and post it up.With the help of all the people in this forum plus my boating buddies,I can say I have try every idea given.I won't simply write such thing on the previous post if I haven't try everything and I am not those type who simply give up after numerous modification and testing for 2 month.One thing I notice is the smell of the epoxy in the hull is really strong.Suspect that it haven't really cure.(I smell it through the hole where you drain the water).Just a question to anyone who own TS2....how fragile is the hull.For me just a minor bang with another hull will simply crack at the joint where the top glued to the bottom of the hull.

I apologize for the inconvinence you have had with your TS2's. You for sure have the hulls from the first run if they have the GP tanks. There was a small manufacturing run of these that had a few issues with the epoxy. I truely believe this is the problem.

All TS2's after the first production run are incredibily strong with new formers in the hull and higher grade epoxy. The hull is solid and can really take a beating, plus it works really well.

If you can contact the place you purchased your TS2's, we will work with them to make this right for you, no problem!

Russ

 

[Ralphie]

That is good to know, I too have one of the ones with the GP tank and have noticed many cracks (small not bad yet) and have hit nothing. Glad to know they have made improvements to an other wise great tunnel. I'm sure sooner or later I will be buying a new hull and as it has been improved it will be another TS2 for me.

 

[Tim_Duggan]

Greg,

You could try sheeting the tunnel floor with ply for a quick test. You should know pretty quickly if the tunnel floor warp is the problem....

Tim

 

[mak]

Russ, thanks for the offer on replacement.As what pulsetech said the cost of shipping itself is going to cost a bomb.You don't have to be sorry about it as I understand the hull are mass produce and will have some problem here and there.

I really appreciate it when you admit the problem on the first run of TS2 and didn't hide any of it from us.I personally salute you and your company for being so honest and responsible over the product you sale.I don't mind buying your product again since after sales and service is there.Plus....just to inform everyone Russ personally wrote me an email to solve my problem.

 

[Greg Mortlock]

Guys

MJ and I had the first 2 here in OZ id rekon,they were from the first batch im sure,we fixed some of the minor problems re the tiny cracks etc but have never had a problem like you guys are discussing with regards to flatness,

Neither MJs nor mine never bounced and the bottoms of the sponsons and tunnel have never been touched,

im not sure this is the problem(flatness in the tunnel floor)

Greg

 

[Greg Mortlock]

Guys

Not sure if this helps but this is what i posted Nov last year.

Greg the boat hasnt changed from this and is what Kris drove at Botb.

Overall RTR

Total boat weight 5lb 6oz

C/G 8 3/4" from back of sponsons

Thunder Tiger set 6" from transom at Top (as Transom is Tappered) to drive dog flats.

Prop x440 height .1570" above c/l zero trim

Cowl Only

Weight 12 oz

C/G of cowl 18 3/8"

Maybe some of this could help I dont know

Greg

 

[Kris Flynn]

in my limited experience the tunnel floor wouldn't do much harm at lower speeds...maybe up around the 40-45MPH. I havn't looked at the video, but there sounds like there is a hook in the sponsons...

i will be attempting to get a yellow one soon, It should be SWEET

 

[carlnoki]

Will be glad when the weather starts getting warm again.,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,



carl

 

[mak]

Pulsetech its good to hear you bought another TS2 and please tell us on how it run compare to the previous one you had.I didn't manage to get any over here but I bought a Bristol Bay by Aquacraft.Hope to hear on the outcome of your new TS2

 

[Ed.R]

Here is a link to a picture of my TS2.Taking awhile to get together ,Waiting on parts and $$$ to finish , and time also.

Ed.R

https://www.intlwaters.com/gallery/displayimage...tup&cat=0&pos=0

 

[ZIonOB75]

Project TS2 bout to start now, i collected all the stuff i needed and i followed reading this thread any

moment TS2 will come to life B) , but i still got some few newbie questions,,c'mon guys need ur quick answer and ideas ..

1. how far the brass thread insert will go thru the transom drilled hole?

2. how did u secure the fuel tank?

thanks...

jul

 

[Jerry Dunlap]

Re: Brass insert - it should be flush with the transom. Be sure to check the Tech Note on the correct drill size. It is incorrect in the instruction manual.

Re: Secure the fuel tanks - use Velcro/hook & loop fastener

JD

 

[ZIonOB75]

Re: Brass insert - it should be flush with the transom. Be sure to check the Tech Note on the correct drill size. It is incorrect in the instruction manual.

Re: Secure the fuel tanks - use Velcro/hook & loop fastener

JD

Thanks JD...

btw, i'm decided to cut the rear part of the cowling to give more room with the engine, any suggestion for the tools use for cutting so i won't crack or chip the fiberglass?,,thanks

jul

 

[Jerry Dunlap]

Re: cutting the cowling

I use a Dremel 1/2" barrel sander to grind away material to clear the O.S. cable bracket and rudder bracket. A cut off wheel works well for making other cuts in the cowling.

JD

 

[Ronald van Essen]

For making the Lynx cowl fit, I used the dremel with a cutting wheel.

Make sure it has support next to the cutting job to be done.

So I think either method works for cowls.

Ronald.

 

[piper_chuck]

I just finished my TS2 and got a chance to race it at the CMB tunnel champs last weekend. Use this info in whatever manner you see fit.

I started with 4 ounces of lead inside the front of the cowl. Engine height was set per directions, with a slight bit of negative. After running it for a bit I decided to add .5 ounces more lead. I stuck with 4.5 for the rest of the weekend. I started out with a Prather 215 stainless prop (I already had it). During the open water session I tried an M440 for a few laps. It seemed to create a few handling problems for me, so I went back to the 215 and stuck with it for the rest of the weekend. I may play with the M440 again this weekend to see if I can work out the handling problems.

 

[MarkScott]

Chuck,

What motor and mount are you using? I'm using a K&B SS with a Seismic Racing mount. Weight so far is at 3.5 oz on the nose and the C.G. is at 9.5". Hoping to test tomorrow.

 

[shoboat]

Chuck & Mark,

The 1440 B/C is working real well on ours at 3.21" of cup. The M-440 works well in choppy water.

You guys are in the ballpark with your settings, you just need the right propeller.

Good Luck Testing,

Mark Sholund

 

[piper_chuck]

Chuck,

What motor and mount are you using? I'm using a K&B SS with a Seismic Racing mount. Weight so far is at 3.5 oz on the nose and the C.G. is at 9.5". Hoping to test tomorrow.

Oops, I should have mentioned this. It's got a stock OS, no extra mount. I haven't even removed the head shim yet.

 

[shoboat]

Chuck,

Pull out the head shim, turbo the crank,get a oiler on the motor w/Slick 50,add some 70%

Cooper's Nitro Fuel,a 1440 B/C @ 3.21" of cup and go out and play. Warning: This is

the receipe for a good time with a good little tunnel hull.

No Pipe Needed,

Mark Sholund