ML Boatworks GSX380 Sport 40 38" prototype build

[anthony_marquart]

I did the exact same type of design in my 310 build. It's just a couple pieces of extruded aluminum trimmed to size with some holes in it. I found it better to make the angles longer than the engine mount so the bolts were easier to get to.. the first one I made had the holes right under the rubber isolators.. that was a pain..

 

[Mike Luszcz]

Just wanted you guys to know the nitro cowling mold has now been made, I will be polishing it, and prepping it for the first pulls early this week. Thanks, Mike

 

[DanWeidner]

Looks good Mike!

I've cleaned everything off my work bench and getting started today!

 

[Mike Luszcz]

Thanks Dan, I cannot wait to get these cowls to you guys that have been so patiently waiting. It means a whole lot to me right now!

 

[El Zorro]

The cowl looks great, Mike! I will probably be splitting the cowl on my nitro boat because of the exposed tuned pipe. 60% of the cowl forward that you can remove for starting/fueling and 40% of the cowl to the rear that can be removed for cleaning,etc. NAMBA rules state that the tuned pipe cannot be out in the open; IMPBA rules says it can.

Thanks!

Dick Tyndall

 

[anthony_marquart]

not a bad idea Dick,.. I started using the neodymium magnets on my cowls now.. would be real easy to hold the back part down flat.. front too really..

 

[El Zorro]

Just received some magnets from CC Racing to hold the cowl down on my GP400. Going to split the cowl and see how that works. Need to go through the engine after breaking a crank last weekend! Maybe you could make a flat cover that would start from the rear of the boat and go towards the front up to where the tuned pipe comes out of the boat? When the existing cowl is split 60/40 the rear part of the upper cowl still has to be cut out and leaves a pretty big hole that could be covered up. Talking about the GP 400 here and the same goes for the SX380 Nitro.

Dick Tyndall

 

[anthony_marquart]

I can make it. Up to mike.

 

[DanWeidner]

Wow!! Started the building. Unbelievable the quality of the wood, clean laser cuts and the craftmanship of this kit! It is one solid boat!

 

[Beau Parsons]

Mike,

How much for just a cowl?

Thanks Beau

 

[anthony_marquart]

top deck of the 380 cowl doesn't fit the other boats.. not without modification anyway.

 

[Mike Luszcz]

I do believe this mold is going to make some really really slick cowls! Polishing done. I will start the Freecote treatment tomorrow. I wanted to give it 5 days to cure out since its a green mold. Then, I will be doing some layups this weekend! Mike

 

[brad nichols]

What do you mean die cuts Dan?? Great looking mould for the cowl Mike!! Maybe next winters project?

Brad

 

[Mike Luszcz]

Its laser cut.

 

[DanWeidner]

Yea. Getting back into boating, the old days it was die cuts

 

[DanWeidner]

I ran outboards before, so the GSX380 Nitro is my first Sport 40 and dealing with turn fins.

I am installing Dick's Virginia turn fin and am trying to figure out:

Where should I install the turn fin blade in relation to the sponson? Do I want the blade to be centered in the middle of the sponson running surface or is the blade centered over the outside portion of the running surface?

Also, what height are you installing the turn fin? I've seen in other threads for Sport 40's it's generally 2 inches below the running surface.

Any recommendations would be appreciated!

Thanks

Dan

 

[Mike Luszcz]

See if this pic will help you out Dan. Thanks, Mike

 

[El Zorro]

Dan,

It is preferred to bolt the turn fin onto the bracket as it was sent to you, on the inside of the bracket. I know Mike's picture shows it on the outside of the bracket, but he has added a plate to help brace the fin. When the fin is mounted on the inside of the bracket, no brace is needed because the bracket braces the fin from the forces encountered in the corners when the boat is turning. It is best to have the fin mounted so that the fin comes down to the water just where the outside sponson chine meets the bottom outside of the sponson. Also, you will need to have the fin 2 inches below the bottom of the sponson at this point. Hope this helps you out.

Dick Tyndall

 

[DanWeidner]

Thanks dick, I noticed that mikes fin was on the outside of the mount which I thought was interesting. I thought he might be trying to reach it out further. I knew he was trying a larger fin and wasn't sure how that affected everything. This clarified it for me. Thank you!

 

[FloridaScaleBoater]

Dan,

It is preferred to bolt the turn fin onto the bracket as it was sent to you, on the inside of the bracket. I know Mike's picture shows it on the outside of the bracket, but he has added a plate to help brace the fin. When the fin is mounted on the inside of the bracket, no brace is needed because the bracket braces the fin from the forces encountered in the corners when the boat is turning. It is best to have the fin mounted so that the fin comes down to the water just where the outside sponson chine meets the bottom outside of the sponson. Also, you will need to have the fin 2 inches below the bottom of the sponson at this point. Hope this helps you out.

Dick Tyndall

Also, with the fin mounted on the outside of the bracket, water will travel up the fin, hitting the bottom edge of the bracket and "may" lift the STBD sponson, if assembly requires you do mount in this fashion, rounding the bottom edge helps.