ZIPP metal servo mount

Intlwaters

Help Support Intlwaters:

This site may earn a commission from merchant affiliate links, including eBay, Amazon, and others.

anthony_marquart

Well-Known Member
Joined
Nov 4, 2003
Messages
3,744
In the past, I have epoxied this metal servo mount to the bottom of the hull. It has worked in many .21 riggers and never had a problem. I'm building a 40 rigger now. Do you guys think I can get away with using epoxy to mount this in a 40 rigger also? I don't really want to add a mounting plate under it as it will make it almost too tall in this particular application. Holes through the bottom of he radio box are not really option here either. The fasteners would run into the center ski on the bottom.. Maybe build a little frame around it with 1/8 square sticks and epoxy it in there?

What do you think?
 
After thinking about it,.. it would be no less attached than building wooden servo mounts and epoxying those to the boat.. I will scuff it up real good and maybe put a little frame around it.
 
Ive done it with .21 riggers for years.. but the metal does not absorb adhesive like wood does. The mount plate would be at least 1/8 thick... and I would be gluing that to the bottom of the boat. so what would be the difference besides the material?
 
On our gas rigger, we roughed up the bottom with 36 grit and used 30 minute epoxy.

Fill the existing screw holes to act as "nails".

I had a bad wreck with mine and ripped the bottom sheet completely off the boat.

It was floating nearby- with the servo and mount still attached...

Joe
 
Ive done it with .21 riggers for years.. but the metal does not absorb adhesive like wood does. The mount plate would be at least 1/8 thick... and I would be gluing that to the bottom of the boat. so what would be the difference besides the material?
any plastic,metal,or anything that doesn't absorb the glue,can easily be pulled off. vibration over time will do the same thing. you will find out when your boat quits turning and can possible be destroyed. do it right and glue down a ply plate with threaded inserts installed from the bottom,and screw your aluminum mount to that
 
Steve I know that is probably the "best" way. I just don't know if I have the height in the back of this rigger.. I made the design taper down pretty slim in the back,.. I guess this is really just a prototype. Plus my bands saw is broken.. (and I'm lazy)
 
I've used 3M 1500 adhesive before. If it'll hold an aluminum gas motor mount in place, Joe's servo mounts are a piece of cake for it! It also adds a layer of vibration islolation protection for it, another plus. The downside is once the tube has been opened you have to use it all as it will then set up in the tube.

I got it at a boat dealership.
 
Yeah some of the new adhesives at Home or Lowes are really good, but like Ron says once opened you have to use it all. Now where do you need to mount brackets on the cement wall??????

Brad
 
Rough up the bottom of the mount also and fill the center section to the top of the plate after filing the opening edges at 45 degree angle. 19 lb. carbon rigger, 220 oz. servo, 92 mph = no problems.
 
I use high shear epoxy from Golfsmith (used for assembling carbon shafts to aluminum heads) and rough the alum with 100 grit, drill holes and chamfer the top of the holes and fill with epoxy to form rivets. Never had one come loose.

Thanks, John
 
The only thing that I can asdd is to make sure that you Loc-Tite down those little bolts as you don't want those to vibrate loose once you've got the rest of the mount solidly in place! There's not a lot of room for them to move but can just enough to be annoying in the countersink. I've had it happen with them just being bolted to the bottom of a radio box.
 

Latest posts

Back
Top