Youngblood Hydro

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David Bryant

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Here's a few images of a vintage Youngblood hydro I purchased brand-new directly from Tidewater back in 1989. They were somewhat popular for a moment, but went away.

This hull is for 65/80 engine. Length is 38in overall. Has 5in wide engine rails.

Jim Youngblood did a beautiful job building these fiberglass outriggers. Constructed of polyester resin fibreglass with basic white gelcoat. The layup is very good. Has engine rails glassed in. Stuffing tube and central bulkhead is glassed-in. Aluminum sponson booms are pre-installed.

This boat has been sitting in my garage now since 1989 , has some dirt, tape residue, and stains on it (easy to clean-off). trying to figure out if I should build it?

June2013_YoungbloodHydro_67,80_top-view_04.jpg

June2013_YoungbloodHydro_67,80_top-view_05.jpg
 
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.I had one red with a Picco 80 in the early 90's that won many races but as you said it's vintage and poliéster resin usually becomes britle after so many years.Gill
 
I had one red with a Picco 80 in the early 90's that won many races but as you said it's vintage and poliéster resin usually becomes britle after so many years.Gill
sounds cool (your Youngblood that is). I own like 2 brand-new (in box) Picco P67 engines from the same era (1988/1989). I was thinking of running a brand-new current engine (CMB, etc.,...). But I figure just set it up as it was run back-in-the day.
Could be a fun boat to run? My only apprehension is running these old engines, if parts break may be difficult to maintain?

Also wasn't aware that polyester resin layup becomes excessively too brittle over time? Guess I could at least reinforce engine compartment with carbon fibre/polyester resin lay-up. Hmmm.........
 
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Yes David its a fun boat to run and also fast .I was a Picco distributor at that time and can attest very few failures with those engines,The picco mess started in the aerly 2000's with the EXR line(mainly 67/80)with crankpin failures even during conservative break in's.I would built it with your Picco 80 turning a stock 1667..you will be surprised! Cheers Gill
 
Yes David its a fun boat to run and also fast .I was a Picco distributor at that time and can attest very few failures with those engines,The picco mess started in the aerly 2000's with the EXR line(mainly 67/80)with crankpin failures even during conservative break in's.I would built it with your Picco 80 turning a stock 1667..you will be surprised! Cheers Gill
thanks for your input Gill!
 
i'll also widen the sponson out 16'' inbetween each other this will make the hull mride better.
 
Don't reinforce with poly resin, epoxy will bond to the poly MUCH better. Sand with 100 grit first and wipe down with thinner.
 
Gil > If you decide to sell it I want first shot at it Sir...............

 
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I think I may have found my answer! I recently bought a used hydro (see attached) and was having problems identifying it....based on this thread, I'm thinking it is a youngblood....anybody else have some thoughts?

Also, I'm new to the picco .67 in it....any thoughts on nitro % for a beast like this?

ThanksDSCF0214.jpgDSCF0213.jpg
 
I think I may have found my answer! I recently bought a used hydro (see attached) and was having problems identifying it....based on this thread, I'm thinking it is a youngblood....anybody else have some thoughts?

Also, I'm new to the picco .67 in it....any thoughts on nitro % for a beast like this?

ThanksView attachment 49129View attachment 49130
interesting, looks to have different proportions from the Youngblood above, but still may be built by Youngblood? Can you provide the overall length (tip of sponsons to transom). Could this be a Mongoose?
 
i'll also widen the sponson out 16'' inbetween each other this will make the hull mride better.
you mean 16in overall width? Wider footprint?
overall width in side the front sponson( 16'' long boom tubes) the footprint is from the back of front sponson to the prop
I see, thanks.
Essentially the 3-points form the foot-print: the two inside-rear sponson points and the prop.

Do most folks add some offset to one side to improve cornering (ie. wider spacing on the left-side sponson)?
 
I think I may have found my answer! I recently bought a used hydro (see attached) and was having problems identifying it....based on this thread, I'm thinking it is a youngblood....anybody else have some thoughts?

Also, I'm new to the picco .67 in it....any thoughts on nitro % for a beast like this?

ThanksView attachment 49129View attachment 49130
interesting, looks to have different proportions from the Youngblood above, but still may be built by Youngblood? Can you provide the overall length (tip of sponsons to transom). Could this be a Mongoose?
I have no idea on the builder. Overall it is 40 1/4" long, center section is 6 7/8" wide at the transom. It does have a { shape on top of the nose, if that helps at all.
 
i'll also widen the sponson out 16'' inbetween each other this will make the hull mride better.
you mean 16in overall width? Wider footprint?
overall width in side the front sponson( 16'' long boom tubes) the footprint is from the back of front sponson to the prop
I see, thanks.
Essentially the 3-points form the foot-print: the two inside-rear sponson points and the prop.

Do most folks add some offset to one side to improve cornering (ie. wider spacing on the left-side sponson)?
david , most people did and still do but if your turn fin is holding in the corner s you don't need to offset. if you feel you the need to offset ,do it.
 
I think I may have found my answer! I recently bought a used hydro (see attached) and was having problems identifying it....based on this thread, I'm thinking it is a youngblood....anybody else have some thoughts?

Also, I'm new to the picco .67 in it....any thoughts on nitro % for a beast like this?

ThanksView attachment 49129View attachment 49130
jesse I believe your boat it a coyote Daytona hull. please correct me if i'm wrong.
 
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