WOF30 Probs

[Jerry Wyss]

A boater friend of mine made us each a 30in WOF, my friend Jim Hill had his done first, was always great down the straight but the only way he could go around the corner was at a "snails" pace. He added stumbling pads and made'm too rounded, next trip out with "pads" fixed , still hooked,,There was No difference between "pads", the boat hooked equally bad with both designs. I got mine done and had installed "pads" or "blocks" back when I saw Jim having all this trouble. My boat hooks at a higher speed but it's not even close to good enough, any application of throttle in the corner,,and Look Out! We tried many different depths of prop and and motor angles with No luck. Jim even tried a "one and a half degree wedge" between the transom and motor mount but it's like it didn't make any diff. I would call it a spin-out as much as a hooking motion. Jim is using a X637 and I have tried a X440 and a Grim signature 1440 (good speed,thanks Grim).

Jim has compaired his sponson surfaces with the plans and he's spot on,,my left sponson rises off a flat surface about an inch before the right.

In the turns the sponsons are "hard" and a little too flat on the water to my liking,,,,It's got me baffled If I had the cornering ability of my XTR and the straight away speed of this boat, I'd **** near be in the neighborhood of unbeatable :blink: Well; I did say "in the neighborhood" :lol: <_< :lol:

 

[waterbug]

Jerry

How much weight is on the front sponsons ??? How much sterring travel do you have in it ??? To much and it will hook ...

 

[Jerry Wyss]

Bug, I "split" 5oz and put inside the front sponsons before i painted it,, I think I'm still an oz or two light up front, which should favor cornering but it don't.

I proceeded carefully with the steering cause I had witnessed Jim having so much trouble for a Month! You Have to slow down to turn, I mean Really slow down and if you try to get some throttle in the corner while holding a set rate of turn,, it's "donuts",, conversely if you try to hold the throttle at a set rate and slightly, slightly, tighten up the turn same thing happens. Somethin' is just not right with them sponsons,,much of them are too flat,,when you go to turn with most tunnels the bow will drop some, you can see it,, on this boat, it don't have far to go being so flat,,so it's not as "progressive" as I would like. I have an Idea of how to make it run right but it would involve removing almost All of that "New Paint" that I just put on under there :lol:

 

[james irwin]

A boater friend of mine made us each a 30in WOF, my friend Jim Hill had his done first, was always great down the straight but the only way he could go around the corner was at a "snails" pace. He added stumbling pads and made'm too rounded, next trip out with "pads" fixed , still hooked,,There was No difference between "pads", the boat hooked equally bad with both designs. I got mine done and had installed "pads" or "blocks" back when I saw Jim having all this trouble. My boat hooks at a higher speed but it's not even close to good enough, any application of throttle in the corner,,and Look Out! We tried many different depths of prop and and motor angles with No luck. Jim even tried a "one and a half degree wedge" between the transom and motor mount but it's like it didn't make any diff. I would call it a spin-out as much as a hooking motion. Jim is using a X637 and I have tried a X440 and a Grim signature 1440 (good speed,thanks Grim).Jim has compaired his sponson serfaces with the plans and he's spot on,,my left sponson rises off a flat serface about an inch before the right.

In the turns the sponsons are "hard" and a little too flat on the water to my liking,,,,It's got me baffled    If I had the cornering ability of my XTR and the straight away speed of this boat, I'd **** near be in the neighborhood of unbeatable  :blink: Well; I did say "in the neighborhood" :lol:   <_<   :lol:

98781[/snapback]

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JERRY , I USED TO HAVE THE SAME PROBLEM , NOW . IF YOU PROMIISE ME YOU WILL AT LAEST TRY THIS , I WILL GO INTO DETAIL AND TELL YOU HOW . OR I WILL KEEP MY MOUTH SHUT ANDF JUST SMILLE .

 

[james irwin]

A boater friend of mine made us each a 30in WOF, my friend Jim Hill had his done first, was always great down the straight but the only way he could go around the corner was at a "snails" pace. He added stumbling pads and made'm too rounded, next trip out with "pads" fixed , still hooked,,There was No difference between "pads", the boat hooked equally bad with both designs. I got mine done and had installed "pads" or "blocks" back when I saw Jim having all this trouble. My boat hooks at a higher speed but it's not even close to good enough, any application of throttle in the corner,,and Look Out! We tried many different depths of prop and and motor angles with No luck. Jim even tried a "one and a half degree wedge" between the transom and motor mount but it's like it didn't make any diff. I would call it a spin-out as much as a hooking motion. Jim is using a X637 and I have tried a X440 and a Grim signature 1440 (good speed,thanks Grim).Jim has compaired his sponson serfaces with the plans and he's spot on,,my left sponson rises off a flat serface about an inch before the right.

In the turns the sponsons are "hard" and a little too flat on the water to my liking,,,,It's got me baffled    If I had the cornering ability of my XTR and the straight away speed of this boat, I'd **** near be in the neighborhood of unbeatable  :blink: Well; I did say "in the neighborhood" :lol:   <_<   :lol:

98781[/snapback]

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JERRY , I USED TO HAVE THE SAME PROBLEM , NOW . IF YOU PROMIISE ME YOU WILL AT LAEST TRY THIS , I WILL GO INTO DETAIL AND TELL YOU HOW . OR I WILL KEEP MY MOUTH SHUT ANDF JUST SMILLE .

98812[/snapback]

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OP, SORRY I GUESS I SHOULD HAVE RED THE LAST POST, WHAT I WAS GOING TO SUGGEST WILL NOT WORRK WITH ANY WEIGHT UP FRONT .

 

[Jerry Wyss]

:lol: :lol: You need to Smile more Jim :lol: Hell, go ahead, I'm not refusing any ideas , I'll take all the info I can get

 

[james irwin]

A boater friend of mine made us each a 30in WOF, my friend Jim Hill had his done first, was always great down the straight but the only way he could go around the corner was at a "snails" pace. He added stumbling pads and made'm too rounded, next trip out with "pads" fixed , still hooked,,There was No difference between "pads", the boat hooked equally bad with both designs. I got mine done and had installed "pads" or "blocks" back when I saw Jim having all this trouble. My boat hooks at a higher speed but it's not even close to good enough, any application of throttle in the corner,,and Look Out! We tried many different depths of prop and and motor angles with No luck. Jim even tried a "one and a half degree wedge" between the transom and motor mount but it's like it didn't make any diff. I would call it a spin-out as much as a hooking motion. Jim is using a X637 and I have tried a X440 and a Grim signature 1440 (good speed,thanks Grim).Jim has compaired his sponson serfaces with the plans and he's spot on,,my left sponson rises off a flat serface about an inch before the right.

In the turns the sponsons are "hard" and a little too flat on the water to my liking,,,,It's got me baffled    If I had the cornering ability of my XTR and the straight away speed of this boat, I'd **** near be in the neighborhood of unbeatable  :blink: Well; I did say "in the neighborhood" :lol:   <_<   :lol:

98781[/snapback]

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BY THE WAY , ALL IRUN ARE THE WOF BOATS . SUPER LIGHT AND GO LIKE H--- AND WILL CORNER LIKE A HYDRO . ASK ANY ONE THAT HAS SEEN THEM . OR DRIVEN ONE OF MYNE

 

[james irwin]

:lol:   :lol: You need to Smile more Jim :lol:   Hell, go ahead, I'm not refusing any ideas , I'll take all the info I can get

98815[/snapback]

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HEY JD . AND EVERY ONE ELSE . THIS IS NOT TO SAY EVERYONE ELSE IS WRONG . BUT JACK GARCIA AND I WORKED THIS OUT YRS AGO . OK HERE GOS . #1 WHY WOULD ANOUTB.HOOK IF IT HOOKS , ITS GRABBING TOO MUCH WATER / AND IF YOU ADDWEIGHT UP FRONT ? IT WILL GRAB MORE . NOW WHAT WE NEED TO DO IS TO RELEASE SOME OF THE WATER , OR NOT GRAB IT IN THE FIRST PLACE , NOW . SCRATCH YOUR SELFF REALL GOOD . REMEMBER YOU MUST NOT HAVE ANY WEIGHT UP FRONT , GET THE BOAT AS YOU WOULD NORMALY RUN IT , NOW FIND T CG . AND MARK BOTH SIDES , NOW HERE ME OUT ON THIS . ITS EXTREMLLY IMPORTANT. FROM THE CG ALL THE WAY FORWARD TO THE END OF THE PICKEL FORKS YOU WILL SAND A 1/4INCH WIDE FLATE AT A 45 DEGREE ANGLE , IF YOU SHOULD GO THRU THE EDGE OF THE SPONSON , DONT WORRY YOU CAN PATCH IT LATER , O YES THIS IS ON THE INSIDE EDGE OF THE SPONSONS, NOW YOU MUST REMOVE THOSE BLOCKS YOU JUST PUT IN , YOU WILL FIND YOUR BOATWILL LAY PUT DOWN THE STRAITS AND GO LIKE CRAZY THRU THE CORNERS B) GOOTA GET READY FOR DAYTON TOMMORROW , BY LOL

 

[VansRacing]

:blink:

 

[Jerry Wyss]

Did you get that,,Carl? :lol: :lol: must'a been the spelling <_<

Was he talkin' about removing the inside edge of the front right sponson?? Could work :huh:

 

[topfuel443]

I understand what Jim is saying to do, but it seems like a bandaid for another problem (we just dont know what the "other" problem is....)

~James

 

[Jerry Wyss]

I understand what Jim is saying to do, but it seems like a bandaid for another problem (we just dont know what the "other" problem is....)
~James

98846[/snapback]

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Hey James, I'm not sure of what the real prob is either,,my solution is perdy "drastic', so i'm tryin' soak up some ideas,,,Nice hearin' from ya

 

[Precision Boats]

:lol:   :lol: You need to Smile more Jim :lol:   Hell, go ahead, I'm not refusing any ideas , I'll take all the info I can get

98815[/snapback]

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HEY JD . AND EVERY ONE ELSE . THIS IS NOT TO SAY EVERYONE ELSE IS WRONG . BUT JACK GARCIA AND I WORKED THIS OUT YRS AGO . OK HERE GOS . #1 WHY WOULD ANOUTB.HOOK IF IT HOOKS , ITS GRABBING TOO MUCH WATER / AND IF YOU ADDWEIGHT UP FRONT ? IT WILL GRAB MORE . NOW WHAT WE NEED TO DO IS TO RELEASE SOME OF THE WATER , OR NOT GRAB IT IN THE FIRST PLACE , NOW . SCRATCH YOUR SELFF REALL GOOD . REMEMBER YOU MUST NOT HAVE ANY WEIGHT UP FRONT , GET THE BOAT AS YOU WOULD NORMALY RUN IT , NOW FIND T CG . AND MARK BOTH SIDES , NOW HERE ME OUT ON THIS . ITS EXTREMLLY IMPORTANT. FROM THE CG ALL THE WAY FORWARD TO THE END OF THE PICKEL FORKS YOU WILL SAND A 1/4INCH WIDE FLATE AT A 45 DEGREE ANGLE , IF YOU SHOULD GO THRU THE EDGE OF THE SPONSON , DONT WORRY YOU CAN PATCH IT LATER , O YES THIS IS ON THE INSIDE EDGE OF THE SPONSONS, NOW YOU MUST REMOVE THOSE BLOCKS YOU JUST PUT IN , YOU WILL FIND YOUR BOATWILL LAY PUT DOWN THE STRAITS AND GO LIKE CRAZY THRU THE CORNERS B) GOOTA GET READY FOR DAYTON TOMMORROW , BY LOL

98823[/snapback]

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[Jerry Dunlap]

Try lowering the engine.

JD

 

[VansRacing]

The outboard tunnel boat will challange your understanding of boat design to the max. Some people enjoy buying used boats and modifying them trying to make them work right by adding strakes, flutes, steps, angles, turn fins, wings, servos, stretching or quartering them and such.

I prefer a very simple design myself. I like a clean straight sponson design with nice sharp crispy edges. This has proven to be the best all around design for me and most of our club members.

NEVER buy a tunnel boat without seeing one run first. When trying to pick a design to buy, watch how it goes through the turns. (Anybody can make a tunnelboat fly down the shoot). Talk to the driver of the boat to see how he likes the boat and if the boat he is running has been modified in any way. If so, find out what has been done to the boat.

90% of O/B tunnelboats will fall into one of two classes in the turns, the ones that over-turn and hook and the ones that under-turn and skate out. Weed these designs out of your selection. If the manufacture could not fix it...well, think about it.

If you want to win races, pick a boat design that already goes through the turns at least good enough to keep up with the guys in your area without any major rework unless you just enjoy tinkering around. Remember that when building a wooden boat, an error as small as .015" in the right place can cause a good boat to become very ill.

I am not saying that the topic boat design is defective in any way as I have never owned or driven one of these boats. My suggestions are a general opinion only and not directed at any particular model design.

Okay I've spent my .02 cents!

Carl

 

[Jerry Wyss]

Try lowering the engine.
JD

98874[/snapback]

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OK

 

[Jerry Wyss]

Remember that when building a wooden boat, an error as small as .015" in the right place can cause a good boat to become very ill.

Wow, Well there's plenty of those

 

[Jerry Wyss]

OK, Well, with all that I'm going to make some reference marks and put'er thru the Ol' table belt sander,,I'm going to have fun taking out those "strakes" that gave me so much misery working around them. I'll put them on after I'm satisfied

with the new config Thank's for your help Guy's

 

[Chris Wittrig]

Sometimes the hooking problem can be attributed to how you have the steering rigged as well. I recall somebody having the same problem with a .21 tunnel and they used solid rod. Problem was that when turning the rod had a tendency to flex then "catch up" causing the boat to hook. The only way to keep the boat from hooking was to keep it "free" when it turned, meaning get the boat to bite, then release, bite, then release, and so on. Essentially, squaring the turn and drifting off. Putting larger diamater rods in cured the problem.

We've had 2 WOF 30's as well and each was a little different. As JD suggests, try lowering the engine height, though you did say that you have tried it both raised and lowered. What trim angle do you have in it? Some of these tunnels don't mind having 1+ degrees of negative when running in a straight line, but once the boat sets it tends to blow the prop and, with the negative in it, pushes the back of the boat up and out causing it to swap ends and spin out. Cure? Try trimming it out and add weight to the top of the radio box or wherever you prefer in the front. That will help the prop hold the front of the boat up when it turns and keep the transom down. Remember that when you trim it out it also raises then engine height. Check the height on a line board before the change, trim it out, then adjust the height back to where it was.

It appears that what Irwin is suggesting effectively adds inclination to the sponsons (think rigger) that not only helps keep the sponson off the water, but will also help hold the front of the boat up as the air passes it.

 

[Jerry Wyss]

Thanks Chris, I'm gonna get those strakes outa the way and so I can get the bottom straight with the plans and uniform with each other.

As far as the motor trim, mine is ever so slightly kicked out and Jim's is level, mostly.

But the problem is in the construction of the running surfaces for sure and trying to "work them" with the strakes in the way is insane, Thanks again.