Wire drive conversion parts

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Climate Models

Well-Known Member
Joined
Nov 23, 2003
Messages
140
Climate Models has a new conversion nosepiece for modelers wanting to change their models to a wire drive system.

Simply remove your stock 1/8" or 3/16" nosepiece, insert the new one, add in your new wire drive, and go.

Available from our website.

http://climateboatworks.bizland.com/store/page3.html

wiredrivenose.jpg


Peter R.

www.climatemodels.com
 
Wire drives install the same way flex cables do. There is still a stuffing tube, and you can use a teflon liner in it if you want.

The major advantages to a wire drive are: No wind up, no fraying, simple alignment, and lighter weight., and they are zero maintenance.

The stuffing tube can be a lot smaller in diameter (less drag under the boat)

Peter R.

www.climatemodels.com
 
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too bad you dont sell them 18" long...
Hey Tom,

Good news! Wire drives don't have lengths. You are only limited by the length of wire you can find.

Any decent hobby store stocks 36" lengths of .0625 wire. Price is less than $2.00. :D

Got one on my FF.12 ;)

Peter R.

www.climatemodels.com
 
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Peter,

Your using a wire drive on a .12 FF that is truly nitro powered? Have you tested this setup yet? I am going to assume the water is still hard up there in "The Great White North".
 
I did a 1/16 wire drive on my CAT and my prop is still somewhere down in the lake. I'm not going to try that again!

Let me know how your .12 powered setup is holding up after you run a gallon through that thing...
 
I can make them as long as you like. The longer they are the easier they are to work with.

We are now making drives with .72 wire that can take 24+ cells easily.

Our wire drive stubs are drilled deep and straight.

I also have the teflon to convert .130 to wire or new teflon foro new installs.

Peter is correct on all the positives.

The key putting them together the right way for stength.
 
hummm i really have to consider this.

the other problem is the attaching to an engine

do you have to take it out every time like a regular flex shaft to prevent rust?
 
I made my own .130 flex to 1/16 wire conversion with an octura stub-shaft some stainless 1/8 hollow tube and K&S 1/16 piano wire.

The system had a stub-up at the engine end that allowed me to use my flex-hex setup. Super easy to take out and clean. The tube was ridding inside a 1/8 hollow nylon tube.

After a couple of minutes of run-time the wire broke just forward of the engine - prop, shaft and all sacrificed to the pond-gods... A dam good prop too!

I hear people using wire drives on 100+ cells. The torque variations of a piston pouding on the crank at 30,000 RPM can't be e-converted to an ### electric motor running on ### cells, It just don't work that way - At least it didn't work for me...

Maybe I used the wrong type of wire -Who knows, I'll keep my wire drives on my electrics for now until I hear reports from others who have had success with +1HP .12 engines and wire drives.
 
I installed a wire drive in my DPI dream about 6 years ago and it works great..

Not sold on them but they do make sence.. Tom..music wire and water hate each other..take it apart and clean is the order of the day. Not a problem however.

grim
 
the other problem is the attaching to an engine
Not a problem!

You can just use a set screw type engine/drive adaptor because you do not have to worry about the set screw crushing the cable. We use larger set screws on our systems for reliability and long life. (The small set screws most other manufacturers use round out to fast.)

Eric, I have been running this set up on small nitro engines for a while now with no problems. I would not trust a .0625 wire on a larger engine like a .21, but that is what larger diameter wire is for. It comes in lots of different sizes.

Peter R.

www.climatemodels.com
 
The neat thing about wire is you get the benefits of a hardshaft yet the flexibilty of cable...within reason. Gentle curves work best.

I can only think that cable under load and thrust wants to coil up so I would think it would put more resistance in the stuffing tube. I ran cable in brass tube witout teflon in most boats for some time and you can hear the cable making lots of noise from pushing on the stuffing tube...one reason grease is needed.

On wire a light lube is all that is needed and I have even used light turbine oil. STP oil treatment is another good option or you can just grease it up ---but not much actually goes on the wire like cable. Oil, wire and teflon is very slick and fast.

Many were running wire inside of 1/8" brass for the stuffing tube and this still works very well. Recently, the teflon has been the best choice...faster, smoother, less noise and you can leave enough exposed teflon at the strut to make adjustments.

I mentioned above that big rigs will be testing .72...I was wrong, it is .78 wire. This should be able to hold up to the same power levels we have seen the German guys run at over 120 mph with 32 cells. They were using 2.5 this past SAW but the year before they ran 2mm wire. They ran SS wire.

Connectors are made to fit the major model motors. 4mm,5mm,6mm, 1/4" and all to fit wire in 1/16 or .78 for the monsters.

Otherwise the Octura 5mm and 1/8" Flex hexes work well with the 1/16" wire.

I have only lost one prop and it was attached to Flex Cable. Cable can rust from the inside out...may never see it on the wrapped outer core but cable has a wire inside and when it goes you are done.
 
Hey Jeff

I would venture a guess that .78" cable should stand up to 300-400 HP (but I think would be a LITTLE heavy for your hull) :eek:

Oh the difference a little 0 can make. :D I'm sure that you mean .078" wire!
 
DOH... you are such a stickler on details! Of course, that is why you turn out the excellent stuff you do :)

So maybe with one (0) instead of 300-400 hp maybe they can then handle 30-40 hp :lol:

Someone on this board is about to try a .078 wire with a big tranny and a big ol' BL motor and a bunch of cells and a big prop. Should be a mean one.
 
Someone on this board is about to try a .078 wire with a big tranny and a big ol' BL motor and a bunch of cells and a big prop
Bet theres more then just one :D
 
Well... I think I better just sit back and shut up already! :wacko:

Thanks for the keeping me honest, you two!

Anyway, I expect good results.
 
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