what size/type of motor/ESC etc. for conversion of 60 sized rigger to FE?

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Although I am a huge fan of the Turnigy 180a controller, heck, I hold the Q-Tunnel IMPBA saw record with one, I am not fully sure running 6s on it long term would be a wise idea. For one, the built in BEC's are not good over 4s. Don, if you remember at the SAW race I was having radio troubles...well the BEC was the issue as I was running on 5s and I had never run that controller above 4s. Well the BEC was shutting down due to overheating. Another reason I would not run it on 6s is the simple fact that it is only designed for 6s. When you run FE, you learn really quickly not to use any electronic item at its maximum intended voltage cause you are looking for trouble. I do believe you can get into the 80's with a low budget set up in a 6s setup, but spending the money on a quality motor like a NEU brand motor will be your key. They run cooler, more efficiently, and last. Running cooler is a big key as all the low budget stuff you put around it will benefit from that, and the overall higher efficiency. Another reason not to use that 180a Turnigy is that the shape of it is odd and takes up a lot of space and the wires enter and exit it from the top, making its height footprint large. Mike
 
Mike . i am not going to disagree with you ,. i am a formal gasser and still new in lipo power ...still .. here on this side of the pond we like to find the best best of this " cheap " product , for instance ,, we never run a bec function with this ESC in 6S function , and we like to add 2 ore 3 680 UF ore 3 1000UF Elco's on the ESC ..that will work to use this ESC in heat setup .. the size is funny and NOT a normal marine ESC .. thats richt .. still it will fit without problems in a 6S rigger ...

i wanted to use a NEU motor in my new 6S setup . but i have seen some boats run with the cheaper Feigao 580 motor what can be used easy with 8 S , and thats a beast ! the 580 can be compared with a 2240 lehner motor thats is 4 times the price ... sure the NEU is better ! without a doubt ... but i believe the 580L is a good one to start with ..

just my 2 " volts "

Jeroen
 
Don , ,

i just did some wood work on my 6S project .. mine is 32 inch long and has lobster sponsons , total lengt will be 40 inch ..

i just wonder , what kind of props are you going to use on yours ?

(i am using a 1970 KV motor with 6S setup .. )

Jerome
 
I would suggest you guys look at the new leapord motors. This would be in place of a Neu motor. They have a big 5692 1340 kv motor that is better than your hobby king or feigao motors. I would also run the swordfish or castle controllers. Hobbyking nano tech lipos seem to be doing pretty good as far as cheap batteries go. Otherwise I recommend thunderpower lipos. This motor I listed is a beast and would power your rigger well into the high 80s and be able to swing a big prop. We usually make a bubble hatch to accommodate our big motors otherwise you have to have all of the equipment to lay in the boat before you build it so you can make sure you get the cg right.

Mark
 
Here is a Youtube video of a recent NAMBA Nats Q Hydro heat that was posted on RRR. Only 4 guys signed up, but there was never more than 3 boats that made each heat.

Q Hydro

Here's how the rigger classes were attended at the '10 NAMBA Nat's in Greeley:

4 guys in Q Hydro

6 guys in P Hydro

7 guys in N-2 Hydro

14 guys in P-Limited Hydro

Q Hydro has a ton of potential at being the best size to get the fastest heat times, but it just hasn't caught on with the masses to date. I think as we get closer to 1P cells that can run a full heat comfortably (Hyperion 5500/6500's for example), a few more tested motors that can run fast on a budget (Leopard?) and (this is a big one) a 6S ESC that is consistent and priced right, things will start to happen.

I almost started building one last winter and it would have been centered around a Lehner 2250/8 (1450 Kv I think), Castle LV 240 (I know, be careful), and a 6S Hyperion 6500 pack. But, the motor is aging and the endbells on those Low Amp Lehners really can't do much over 120 amps. But, that's about where I would want the amp draw to be, anyway, so it may happen this winter.
 
I agree with Darren in that you need a list of several motors for a spec class. You also need a good system to tech them. Despite these problems, I think spec classes are the way to go.

Lohring Miller
 
here is a pic of my 4S JAE rigger .. also the new tun for the 6S version . its a bit longer and a tad wider .. the 180 esc will fit here. . but i need to play with the c/g and placement . any help is welcome !

Jeroen

6sjae4.jpg
 
given the voltage ranges for a Q class boat you can also run on 5s lipo as well, so you may not need to enlarge the tub the 5s packs are also a bit cheaper too.

I think the fast heat time for Q outrigger was 1:22 or 1:23 at the 2010 NAMBA Nats in Greeley.

For comparison I ran my Q Sport Whiplash sport 40 hydro for a fast heat time of 1:25 on 5s2p 4200mah 45c Hyperion batteries (8400mah total) using a Neu Motors 1527 1.5d 1500kv on a Castle 240LV swinging a detounged X457 prop. so its close to the outrigger performance given the heat times. Plus there is more to be had out of the above setup considering I have not even played with the props yet. The only thing that concerns me in my set up is the Castle Hydra 240LV, I am not sure how much more it can take before going up in smoke, I have not stuck my Eagle Tree in it yet to find out whats going on... maybe this weekend.

Sean C.
 
here is a pic of my 4S JAE rigger .. also the new tun for the 6S version . its a bit longer and a tad wider .. the 180 esc will fit here. . but i need to play with the c/g and placement . any help is welcome !

Jeroen

6sjae4.jpg

speakerboy those are some good looking boats your building!

I have finally started my JAE21FE.... I have opened the box!
 
here some more pics of the 6S version i am building .. there is a 4S pack in the pics for show. . the 6S packs still have to come in ..

Jeroen

frame1e.jpg


frame2p.jpg


frame3u.jpg


frame4o.jpg
 
i need to play with the c/g and placement . any help is welcome !

Jeroen

6sjae4.jpg
I would try to place the battery between the two sponsom stick. On the picture, there micht be to much weight on the strut.

Regards

Pierre
 
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