What did I do WRONG ????

[Ralphie]

Well still learning (the hard way ! ). Had the TS2 out today and richened it up like everyone said and it ran GREAT. I had been feeling some roughness in the engine but not experienced enough to know it meant TROUBLE. My second run out today it was running fine then died. Got it home and something was in the cylinder (half of a ball bearing ! ). Yes I should have paid attention to the roughness feel when I turned over the engine the other days but I didn’t.

What caused it ?? Here is my “After Run Process” ……I ALWAYS WD 40 the engine spin it over with the plug out then Marvel Mystery Oil in it and spin it over, WD 40 the cooling part of the head and lube the cable. I run Morgan Fuels Omega 25% Nitro with 17 % oil in it. I go to the lake about once a week so it doesn’t sit for long periods of time. I give it the best of care but I must have done something wrong ? By what I see at tear down it will not pay to repair (piston, liner, bearings, cyl head ). Any ideas ? Also any ideas where to get a new one at a fair price ? This motor is 9 months old.

 

[Jerry Wyss]

OOOoOO Gawd, that's about as bad as it get's. Well you already know what you did wrong,

rough anywhere ain't good.

Does seem a bit soon for things to have deteriorated to that point.

Hmmm, new parts, new motor,,, the lower is worth a $100 if it's in good shape

and I'll throw in $40 more for the carb.

Also the PTO is worth another $40 if it ain't all chewed up,, hell man, your

just a $120 away from a new motor.

 

[Ralphie]

OOOoOO Gawd, that's about as bad as it get's. Well you already know what you did wrong,

rough anywhere ain't good.

Does seem a bit soon for things to have deteriorated to that point.

Hmmm, new parts, new motor,,, the lower is worth a $100 if it's in good shape

and I'll throw in $40 more for the carb.

Lower end (drive unit), crankcase, carb are all perfect.

 

[Eric Bourlet]

Sorry to hear about your problem. It is unfortunate as many could probably been avoided if you had a local help you. Here is my after run procedure many will say it is overkill but it has worked for me . I do this with every engine after every day of racing even if I will be racing it again the next day.

1. remove power head from lower unit

2. remove PTO from power head

3. remove glow plug

4. use WD-40 to clean out both motor, PTO, and water jacket (I do not roll the motor over TDC with WD-40 in it)

5. dump the WD-40 into a black plastic tub and look for shiney bits (if there are any thats bad)

6. use a good outboard storage lube like Quicksilver spin motor over TDC and make sure lube gets everywhere do the same with the PTO

7. with plenty of oil in motor and flywheel pointed down reinstall the PTO making sure it is not in backwards

8. roll motor to TDC and install the glow plug

9.wrap motor in clean dry towel and store with flywheel down

Do not store the motor on the lower unit as the oil drains away from the bearings, keep it upside down. What we do is use a black plastic tub to store the motors in and it doubles as a cleaning catch basin so you can inspect the oil you dump out during cleaning. Never put a motor in a plastic bag! If for some reason you must, tuck a paper towel into the bag opening to keep it from being sealed. Unless you live in a very dry climate and are very careful to get every little bit of moisture off the motor you will get rust if you keep it in a plastic bag. I know that this will cause guys to disagree but if you have gotten away with it then you either live where it stays low humidity or you have been lucky.

As far as a new motor you are correct that it would be less expensive to buy a new one than rebuild if you’re in that bad of shape. I think Tower has a coupon deal running that saves you so many $ off at different price points. If you do replace the motor let me know if you want to get rid of your old PTO the bearing will need replaced but I may have a project I could use it in.

 

[Jerry Wyss]

Well, It's all up to you, and that includes the stock mount and steering arrangement with

the lower.

Probably could get $20 off with that purchase from tower, that would make a new motor $100.

Also if you bought just one more little thing that put the cost over $300 at Tower

you could get a new one fo $90. A OS piston and sleeve is $81 I think,, looks better all

the time, huh?

 

[Ralphie]

Well, It's all up to you, and that includes the stock mount and steering arrangement with

the lower.

Probably could get $20 off with that purchase from tower, that would make a new motor $100.

Jerry Email me lets talk

Thanks

Ralph

 

[Jerry Dunlap]

re: I must of done something wrong

Not necessarily. Things that turn high RPMs over an extended period of time can fail. I will have to admit that having 1/2 a bearing get into the piston and sleeve is rather unusual.

JD

 

[Mark Bullard]

Well still learning (the hard way ! ). Had the TS2 out today and richened it up like everyone said and it ran GREAT. I had been feeling some roughness in the engine but not experienced enough to know it meant TROUBLE. My second run out today it was running fine then died. Got it home and something was in the cylinder (half of a ball bearing ! ). Yes I should have paid attention to the roughness feel when I turned over the engine the other days but I didn’t.

What caused it ?? Here is my “After Run Process” ……I ALWAYS WD 40 the engine spin it over with the plug out then Marvel Mystery Oil in it and spin it over, WD 40 the cooling part of the head and lube the cable. I run Morgan Fuels Omega 25% Nitro with 17 % oil in it. I go to the lake about once a week so it doesn’t sit for long periods of time. I give it the best of care but I must have done something wrong ? By what I see at tear down it will not pay to repair (piston, liner, bearings, cyl head ). Any ideas ? Also any ideas where to get a new one at a fair price ? This motor is 9 months old.

Ralphie,

I don't think that you really did anything wrong since you run it so much. My question is how much fuel have you run thru the motor? You may have just past the life of the bearings. Each time you run the motor the bearings will get a little rougher. I find on my Twin 90's that after I run about 30 gals. that the bearings are in need of changing.

Mark Bullard

 

[Ralphie]

Well still learning (the hard way ! ). Had the TS2 out today and richened it up like everyone said and it ran GREAT. I had been feeling some roughness in the engine but not experienced enough to know it meant TROUBLE. My second run out today it was running fine then died. Got it home and something was in the cylinder (half of a ball bearing ! ). Yes I should have paid attention to the roughness feel when I turned over the engine the other days but I didn’t.

What caused it ?? Here is my “After Run Process” ……I ALWAYS WD 40 the engine spin it over with the plug out then Marvel Mystery Oil in it and spin it over, WD 40 the cooling part of the head and lube the cable. I run Morgan Fuels Omega 25% Nitro with 17 % oil in it. I go to the lake about once a week so it doesn’t sit for long periods of time. I give it the best of care but I must have done something wrong ? By what I see at tear down it will not pay to repair (piston, liner, bearings, cyl head ). Any ideas ? Also any ideas where to get a new one at a fair price ? This motor is 9 months old.

Ralphie,

I don't think that you really did anything wrong since you run it so much. My question is how much fuel have you run thru the motor? You may have just past the life of the bearings. Each time you run the motor the bearings will get a little rougher. I find on my Twin 90's that after I run about 30 gals. that the bearings are in need of changing.

Mark Bullard

Only ran about 3 Gals in it.

Ralph

 

[Jerry Wyss]

Ralph, Just a tip, Omega fuel sucks, several of us found that out while flying planes years ago.

O'Donnell, Byrons, Morgan "Sidewinder" is good, and there are others,,,Omega,,no.

WD40 dispells water ok, but thats about it,,I use CorrosionX,, very few people don't like it

but nobody likes them either :lol: :lol: ya just gotta grind it sometimes

 

[Ralphie]

Ralph, Just a tip, Omega fuel sucks, several of us found that out while flying planes years ago.

O'Donnell, Byrons, Morgan "Sidewinder" is good, and there are others,,,Omega,,no.

WD40 dispells water ok, but thats about it,,I use CorrosionX,, very few people don't like it

but nobody likes them either :lol: :lol: ya just gotta grind it sometimes

THANKS

Will try a differant fuel like you mentioned.

Thanks

 

[Eric Bourlet]

I did leave off that you need to run good oil in your fuel. Before I started mixing my own and using Klotz, I ran both Red Max (their boat fuel mix) then switched to O'Donnell as it ran cooler and faster in the Sport 40 at two laps (hmm must be the oil). If you stay with a fuel that racers use in your area you are most likely safe. Most any of the major brands will work great. If you are ever told by a guy that they use "brand XXZ" and rave about how great it is but then go on to tell you they add their own castor, I would use a different fuel. If it is a good fuel you should need to add nothing as it should already be in it ,that is what makes a good fuel. If you have fuel you already have purchased that is not that great you could add a couple of oz of castor to it just so you don't have to throw it away. Again if you have locals within driving distance go test with them they can save you money as racing stresses the equipment.

 

[MalaysianFlyer]

You may have been the "lucky??/unlucky??" 1 in a million to have that happen. I have seen one OS outboard that was returned to my LHS for a shocking reason... no wristpin!! We could not believe it, as its not something you exepct from OS, but it actually happened, they shipped the engine out without the wristpin.

Also, recently, we had one OS 50 (airplane engine) that had problems during the running in, when it was dismantled at the shop, the bearings were all corroded. And the engine was new but somehow shipped out in that condition.

I think it was Eric who posted sometime earlier about the precautions to take with a new engine, to dismantle and check it before running, looks like that will be something for all of us to do if this can happen with an OS

Hope you dont go through it again

OOOoOO Gawd, that's about as bad as it get's. Well you already know what you did wrong,

rough anywhere ain't good.

Does seem a bit soon for things to have deteriorated to that point.

Hmmm, new parts, new motor,,, the lower is worth a $100 if it's in good shape

and I'll throw in $40 more for the carb.

Also the PTO is worth another $40 if it ain't all chewed up,, hell man, your

just a $120 away from a new motor.

Now what exactly have you got planned for all that?? Knowing you, it must be something guranteed to shock :blink: Mind to give us a preview??

 

[Ronald van Essen]

re: I must of done something wrong

Not necessarily. Things that turn high RPMs over an extended period of time can fail. I will have to admit that having 1/2 a bearing get into the piston and sleeve is rather unusual.

JD

Well about the same happened to me during the tunnel races at the CMB last march. ALways cleaned the engine after a days running, with WD40 and then after run oil. Always lubed the thing, but somehow, the bearings just gave up. Damaged the inside of the engine. ( piston and sleeve and the head).

So far never took of the powerhead for cleaning, but I guess I will start doing that.

Since I live in the Netherlands, I cannot compare the fuel I use, its only 16% nitro, the only readily available for sale, and the oil is around 18% according the LHS.

Engine: K&Bss.

Ronald.

 

[Jerry Wyss]

Now what exactly have you got planned for all that?? Knowing you, it must be something guranteed to shock :blink: Mind to give us a preview??

Sunthar,

I was thinking it goes on the bottom of the black one,,, guy's have been doin' this

for over a year now,, it's not my idea.