TWIN MAC 84 S.G.X. Rigger

Intlwaters

Help Support Intlwaters:

This site may earn a commission from merchant affiliate links, including eBay, Amazon, and others.

bunnyboy

Member
Joined
Dec 29, 2007
Messages
20
Hi deed run for the firs time my twinn 84 mac SGX that i deed by now from endy, and it runs for 200 to 300 meters and slowly stops.

1) I am running the angins whit 40% NITRO.

2) Andy sand me 1667 5.5 cup props.

3) Tuned pips are the parabolic ones that andy send me too.

4) Pipe lengts are 11.5 inces from plug to weld.

5) Glow plugs are Novarossi C7-S

Can any budy give me same answers.
 
Are the sponson booms sealed tight against the hull? You may be getting some water in the carbs.
 
Are the sponson booms sealed tight against the hull? You may be getting some water in the carbs.
Hi thanks for your riply but yess thay are.
Do you have a flow meter for setting the mixtures? What needles are you using?
Hi don can you send me your e`mail address i will send you same pics of the fuel nidles and no i do not have a flow meter.
I will p/m you my e-mail address. I would strongly recommend a flow meter for setting up twins. I now use the meter that Boris Mazor makes, very compact & very accurate. Here is a link to a thread for the flow meter from him-

http://www.intlwaters.com/index.php?showtopic=24480

I'll check the pics you send a little later when I get home.
 
Hi,

I final got my Twin Mongoose running after many problems prior to 2008. If you think water is getting into the boat try using foam or sponges to trap the water. This is 1 of many suggestions I got at the 2008 NAMBA Nats.

In addition, make sure all your cooling a fuel lines are the same length. At roughly 6,000 feet above sea level I used the ABC H-32 prop as well. If you want to try different props it might be worth trying ABC props. Some of the lifting props drive the front of the boat into the water.

If took me 5 years on the side of running all my other boats to test run my Twin 90 rigger.

Good Luck?!

Brad
 
Hi deed run for the firs time my twinn 84 mac SGX that i deed by now from endy, and it runs for 200 to 300 meters and slowly stops.
1) I am running the angins whit 40% NITRO.

2) Andy sand me 1667 5.5 cup props.

3) Tuned pips are the parabolic ones that andy send me too.

4) Pipe lengts are 11.5 inces from plug to weld.

5) Glow plugs are Novarossi C7-S

Can any budy give me same answers.
#1 OK 40%

#2 too much start ABC H-32 needs adjust needles , struts, look chart turn fin level

#3 set up 12" will look better increase speed and will put down about .25" but depend on your header short or long pipe?

#5 Ok

which one for Early(round drum+piston look like flat) or Late (ramped drum +piston skirt)MAC84?

what kind of needles valve? or third remote needles?

Hope to help your solve problem ;)
 
Last edited by a moderator:
Hi deed run for the firs time my twinn 84 mac SGX that i deed by now from endy, and it runs for 200 to 300 meters and slowly stops.
1) I am running the angins whit 40% NITRO.

2) Andy sand me 1667 5.5 cup props.

3) Tuned pips are the parabolic ones that andy send me too.

4) Pipe lengts are 11.5 inces from plug to weld.

5) Glow plugs are Novarossi C7-S

Can any budy give me same answers.
#1 OK 40%

#2 too much start ABC H-32 needs adjust needles , struts, look chart turn fin level

#3 set up 12" will look better increase speed and will put down about .25" but depend on your header short or long pipe?

#5 Ok

which one for Early(round drum+piston look like flat) or Late (ramped drum +piston skirt)MAC84?

what kind of needles valve? or third remote needles?

Hope to help your solve problem ;)


Allan is right on the money 5.5 cup is way to much for that boat combination. Try 1667s below 5 cup. Set the pipes at 12".

The flow meter deal is for repeatability and so that you can build a needle set database. You should be able to dial your engines on a rich needle and launch every time without having to use a flowmeter. 200-300 meters then dead sounds like lean engines. Make your boat as light as possible. My RRs are slightly above 14 lbs. (14.1-14.2) using 90 engines. An SGX with MAC84s should be much lighter. If it is not, then you have weight problems. Go to the post office late at night and use their scales. Keep on posting.

good luck,

PISTON1
 
Last edited by a moderator:
Hi deed run for the firs time my twinn 84 mac SGX that i deed by now from endy, and it runs for 200 to 300 meters and slowly stops.
1) I am running the angins whit 40% NITRO.

2) Andy sand me 1667 5.5 cup props.

3) Tuned pips are the parabolic ones that andy send me too.

4) Pipe lengts are 11.5 inces from plug to weld.

5) Glow plugs are Novarossi C7-S

Can any budy give me same answers.
#1 OK 40%

#2 too much start ABC H-32 needs adjust needles , struts, look chart turn fin level

#3 set up 12" will look better increase speed and will put down about .25" but depend on your header short or long pipe?

#5 Ok

which one for Early(round drum+piston look like flat) or Late (ramped drum +piston skirt)MAC84?

what kind of needles valve? or third remote needles?

Hope to help your solve problem ;)


Allan is right on the money 5.5 cup is way to much for that boat combination. Try 1667s below 5 cup. Set the pipes at 12".

The flow meter deal is for repeatability and so that you can build a needle set database. You should be able to dial your engines on a rich needle and launch every time without having to use a flowmeter. 200-300 meters then dead sounds like lean engines. Make your boat as light as possible. My RRs are slightly above 14 lbs. (14.1-14.2) using 90 engines. An SGX with MAC84s should be much lighter. If it is not, then you have weight problems. Go to the post office late at night and use their scales. Keep on posting.

good luck,

PISTON1
Hi Piston 1 thanks for your help re the weight it is 13.11

re the pips thay are porabolic pips from Andy.

Twin_S.G.X._025.jpg
 
Hi deed run for the firs time my twinn 84 mac SGX that i deed by now from endy, and it runs for 200 to 300 meters and slowly stops.
1) I am running the angins whit 40% NITRO.

2) Andy sand me 1667 5.5 cup props.

3) Tuned pips are the parabolic ones that andy send me too.

4) Pipe lengts are 11.5 inces from plug to weld.

5) Glow plugs are Novarossi C7-S

Can any budy give me same answers.
#1 OK 40%

#2 too much start ABC H-32 needs adjust needles , struts, look chart turn fin level

#3 set up 12" will look better increase speed and will put down about .25" but depend on your header short or long pipe?

#5 Ok

which one for Early(round drum+piston look like flat) or Late (ramped drum +piston skirt)MAC84?

what kind of needles valve? or third remote needles?

Hope to help your solve problem ;)


Allan is right on the money 5.5 cup is way to much for that boat combination. Try 1667s below 5 cup. Set the pipes at 12".

The flow meter deal is for repeatability and so that you can build a needle set database. You should be able to dial your engines on a rich needle and launch every time without having to use a flowmeter. 200-300 meters then dead sounds like lean engines. Make your boat as light as possible. My RRs are slightly above 14 lbs. (14.1-14.2) using 90 engines. An SGX with MAC84s should be much lighter. If it is not, then you have weight problems. Go to the post office late at night and use their scales. Keep on posting.

good luck,

PISTON1
Hi Piston 1 thanks for your help re the weight it is 13.11

re the pips thay are porabolic pips from Andy.
Hi hare are same pick of the twinn SGX.

Twin_S.G.X._026.jpg
 
Hi deed run for the firs time my twinn 84 mac SGX that i deed by now from endy, and it runs for 200 to 300 meters and slowly stops.
1) I am running the angins whit 40% NITRO.

2) Andy sand me 1667 5.5 cup props.

3) Tuned pips are the parabolic ones that andy send me too.

4) Pipe lengts are 11.5 inces from plug to weld.

5) Glow plugs are Novarossi C7-S

Can any budy give me same answers.
#1 OK 40%

#2 too much start ABC H-32 needs adjust needles , struts, look chart turn fin level

#3 set up 12" will look better increase speed and will put down about .25" but depend on your header short or long pipe?

#5 Ok

which one for Early(round drum+piston look like flat) or Late (ramped drum +piston skirt)MAC84?

what kind of needles valve? or third remote needles?

Hope to help your solve problem ;)


Allan is right on the money 5.5 cup is way to much for that boat combination. Try 1667s below 5 cup. Set the pipes at 12".

The flow meter deal is for repeatability and so that you can build a needle set database. You should be able to dial your engines on a rich needle and launch every time without having to use a flowmeter. 200-300 meters then dead sounds like lean engines. Make your boat as light as possible. My RRs are slightly above 14 lbs. (14.1-14.2) using 90 engines. An SGX with MAC84s should be much lighter. If it is not, then you have weight problems. Go to the post office late at night and use their scales. Keep on posting.

good luck,

PISTON1
Hi Piston 1 thanks for your help re the weight it is 13.11

re the pips thay are porabolic pips from Andy.
Hi hare are same pick of the twinn SGX.
Twin_S.G.X._027.jpg
 
Hey Bunnyboy,

Just a few observations:

1 - Those are the new billet pipes not the parabolic pipes. I would say around 11.5" - 11.75" should be about correct.

2 - You WILL need more/larger holes in your cowling for air. That boat will not run well without them.

As far as props go, the best prop you can run on that boat will be a 1667 cut down to 64mm with 5.8" of cup from CMDi. The second best prop will be an H-38 with 5.7" of cup from CMDi.

You should be able to get your boat running without a flow meter. As stated, once you get one you'll be able to record info to use later. You will also see that when you do get it running well, on a flow meter the needles will not be flowing the same.

Other than the pipes I have the same boat/motor combo and what I've stated above will work on your boat. I actually run my pipes (Black AB .67 pipes) closer to 11.25".

Regards,

-Buck-
 
Nice paint job.... Looks like one of m.... well nice paint job... LOL!

Sounds like the engines are too lean. If this is your first time using MAC engines they often sound to rich on the beach which makes one want to lean them down too much.

You may want to run with some lower pitch props. 5.2 to 5.6 1667s or H38s or maybe even stock with no pitch. I am not sure the holes in the cowl matter much. I have run with just one in the middle similar to what I see on yours.

Are those pipes the .90/1" pipes or the .67/.84 pipes. I tried the .67/.84 pipe on an .84 but it doesn't seem to be performing as of yet. It's awesome on a .67 but haven't found the combo for the .84. The Black AB pipes work well though. Just some things to consider.

But before you add to your already expensive investment because all of us who have run twins know that you have, try this. You may want to richen them up so more fuel gets to them. A flow meter is great once you have found your set-up. They help you maintain it in different weather conditions.

It will take trial and error to get it there. But try richening in the needle (you know... open the needle valve up so more fuel flows through). You can do this by starting one engine. Idle it... then give the engine full throttle briefly before the engine revs to high (you don't want to blow those motors that are almost extinct) if the engine revs to high open the valve up a little more. Do it until it is obvious that the engine is not reving anywhere near it's peak then shut that engine down. Start the other engine and repeat until you get the engine acheiving a similar rev as the first. Remember you don't want the engines to rev up much at all. Then start them both together. Adjust the needles so they sound like they are revving up to the same RPM. Remember... you don't want them to revv up much at all. After you have them running the same then launch the boat. The boat should keep running though not near it's top speed. The engines should trot along at a moderate RPM. Listen to see if the engines are running the same speed. If they are not... close up the needle valve slightly on the one that is coldest after you bring it in. Run the boat again and repeat until you get the engine running the same. The boat should be running with no problem.

Once the engines are running the same you can start screwing in the needle valve maybe an 1/8th of turn at a time. You better bring a lot of fuel as this is definitely the slow (yet cautious) road to the solution. Plus you don't want to run your engines to lean anyway from what Andy says it's easy to stick a piston on the twins although I have yet to do that on a MAC... but like I said you don't want to take a chance on destroying an engine especially hard to find/get ones.

Once you have the boat really humming I would suspect you would be running between 85 and 90mph. Once the boat starts singing pretty well then you can Flow it. Then try different props, and pipe lengths. The last twin I ran closest to your set-up was radared in a race one day at 87.

Hope this helps.
 
Nice paint job.... Looks like one of m.... well nice paint job... LOL!
Sounds like the engines are too lean. If this is your first time using MAC engines they often sound to rich on the beach which makes one want to lean them down too much.

You may want to run with some lower pitch props. 5.2 to 5.6 1667s or H38s or maybe even stock with no pitch. I am not sure the holes in the cowl matter much. I have run with just one in the middle similar to what I see on yours.

Are those pipes the .90/1" pipes or the .67/.84 pipes. I tried the .67/.84 pipe on an .84 but it doesn't seem to be performing as of yet. It's awesome on a .67 but haven't found the combo for the .84. The Black AB pipes work well though. Just some things to consider.

But before you add to your already expensive investment because all of us who have run twins know that you have, try this. You may want to richen them up so more fuel gets to them. A flow meter is great once you have found your set-up. They help you maintain it in different weather conditions.

It will take trial and error to get it there. But try richening in the needle (you know... open the needle valve up so more fuel flows through). You can do this by starting one engine. Idle it... then give the engine full throttle briefly before the engine revs to high (you don't want to blow those motors that are almost extinct) if the engine revs to high open the valve up a little more. Do it until it is obvious that the engine is not reving anywhere near it's peak then shut that engine down. Start the other engine and repeat until you get the engine acheiving a similar rev as the first. Remember you don't want the engines to rev up much at all. Then start them both together. Adjust the needles so they sound like they are revving up to the same RPM. Remember... you don't want them to revv up much at all. After you have them running the same then launch the boat. The boat should keep running though not near it's top speed. The engines should trot along at a moderate RPM. Listen to see if the engines are running the same speed. If they are not... close up the needle valve slightly on the one that is coldest after you bring it in. Run the boat again and repeat until you get the engine running the same. The boat should be running with no problem.

Once the engines are running the same you can start screwing in the needle valve maybe an 1/8th of turn at a time. You better bring a lot of fuel as this is definitely the slow (yet cautious) road to the solution. Plus you don't want to run your engines to lean anyway from what Andy says it's easy to stick a piston on the twins although I have yet to do that on a MAC... but like I said you don't want to take a chance on destroying an engine especially hard to find/get ones.

Once you have the boat really humming I would suspect you would be running between 85 and 90mph. Once the boat starts singing pretty well then you can Flow it. Then try different props, and pipe lengths. The last twin I ran closest to your set-up was radared in a race one day at 87.

Hope this helps.
Hi many thanks to all riplys on my broblems , after all the riply on my twin 84 Mac SGX

i deed same canges.

1) Cange all fuel lines for beter fuel flow.

2) Re the props i deed cange to 1667 cut to 64 5.5 cup.

3) Cange to Mac Coy NC-9 Glow plugs are colder.

4) I deed order the Flow Meter too.

Hop by nest weekend i will try to make a beter run with the SGX.

Many thanks to all and keep on posting.
 
Nice paint job.... Looks like one of m.... well nice paint job... LOL!
Sounds like the engines are too lean. If this is your first time using MAC engines they often sound to rich on the beach which makes one want to lean them down too much.

You may want to run with some lower pitch props. 5.2 to 5.6 1667s or H38s or maybe even stock with no pitch. I am not sure the holes in the cowl matter much. I have run with just one in the middle similar to what I see on yours.

Are those pipes the .90/1" pipes or the .67/.84 pipes. I tried the .67/.84 pipe on an .84 but it doesn't seem to be performing as of yet. It's awesome on a .67 but haven't found the combo for the .84. The Black AB pipes work well though. Just some things to consider.

But before you add to your already expensive investment because all of us who have run twins know that you have, try this. You may want to richen them up so more fuel gets to them. A flow meter is great once you have found your set-up. They help you maintain it in different weather conditions.

It will take trial and error to get it there. But try richening in the needle (you know... open the needle valve up so more fuel flows through). You can do this by starting one engine. Idle it... then give the engine full throttle briefly before the engine revs to high (you don't want to blow those motors that are almost extinct) if the engine revs to high open the valve up a little more. Do it until it is obvious that the engine is not reving anywhere near it's peak then shut that engine down. Start the other engine and repeat until you get the engine acheiving a similar rev as the first. Remember you don't want the engines to rev up much at all. Then start them both together. Adjust the needles so they sound like they are revving up to the same RPM. Remember... you don't want them to revv up much at all. After you have them running the same then launch the boat. The boat should keep running though not near it's top speed. The engines should trot along at a moderate RPM. Listen to see if the engines are running the same speed. If they are not... close up the needle valve slightly on the one that is coldest after you bring it in. Run the boat again and repeat until you get the engine running the same. The boat should be running with no problem.

Once the engines are running the same you can start screwing in the needle valve maybe an 1/8th of turn at a time. You better bring a lot of fuel as this is definitely the slow (yet cautious) road to the solution. Plus you don't want to run your engines to lean anyway from what Andy says it's easy to stick a piston on the twins although I have yet to do that on a MAC... but like I said you don't want to take a chance on destroying an engine especially hard to find/get ones.

Once you have the boat really humming I would suspect you would be running between 85 and 90mph. Once the boat starts singing pretty well then you can Flow it. Then try different props, and pipe lengths. The last twin I ran closest to your set-up was radared in a race one day at 87.

Hope this helps.
Hi many thanks to all riplys on my broblems , after all the riply on my twin 84 Mac SGX

i deed same canges.

1) Cange all fuel lines for beter fuel flow.

2) Re the props i deed cange to 1667 cut to 64 5.5 cup.

3) Cange to Mac Coy NC-9 Glow plugs are colder.

4) I deed order the Flow Meter too.

Hop by nest weekend i will try to make a beter run with the SGX.

Many thanks to all and keep on posting.
Hi these are the fuel line that i deed canged and the props are reducted to 64mm.
 
Nice paint job.... Looks like one of m.... well nice paint job... LOL!
Sounds like the engines are too lean. If this is your first time using MAC engines they often sound to rich on the beach which makes one want to lean them down too much.

You may want to run with some lower pitch props. 5.2 to 5.6 1667s or H38s or maybe even stock with no pitch. I am not sure the holes in the cowl matter much. I have run with just one in the middle similar to what I see on yours.

Are those pipes the .90/1" pipes or the .67/.84 pipes. I tried the .67/.84 pipe on an .84 but it doesn't seem to be performing as of yet. It's awesome on a .67 but haven't found the combo for the .84. The Black AB pipes work well though. Just some things to consider.

But before you add to your already expensive investment because all of us who have run twins know that you have, try this. You may want to richen them up so more fuel gets to them. A flow meter is great once you have found your set-up. They help you maintain it in different weather conditions.

It will take trial and error to get it there. But try richening in the needle (you know... open the needle valve up so more fuel flows through). You can do this by starting one engine. Idle it... then give the engine full throttle briefly before the engine revs to high (you don't want to blow those motors that are almost extinct) if the engine revs to high open the valve up a little more. Do it until it is obvious that the engine is not reving anywhere near it's peak then shut that engine down. Start the other engine and repeat until you get the engine acheiving a similar rev as the first. Remember you don't want the engines to rev up much at all. Then start them both together. Adjust the needles so they sound like they are revving up to the same RPM. Remember... you don't want them to revv up much at all. After you have them running the same then launch the boat. The boat should keep running though not near it's top speed. The engines should trot along at a moderate RPM. Listen to see if the engines are running the same speed. If they are not... close up the needle valve slightly on the one that is coldest after you bring it in. Run the boat again and repeat until you get the engine running the same. The boat should be running with no problem.

Once the engines are running the same you can start screwing in the needle valve maybe an 1/8th of turn at a time. You better bring a lot of fuel as this is definitely the slow (yet cautious) road to the solution. Plus you don't want to run your engines to lean anyway from what Andy says it's easy to stick a piston on the twins although I have yet to do that on a MAC... but like I said you don't want to take a chance on destroying an engine especially hard to find/get ones.

Once you have the boat really humming I would suspect you would be running between 85 and 90mph. Once the boat starts singing pretty well then you can Flow it. Then try different props, and pipe lengths. The last twin I ran closest to your set-up was radared in a race one day at 87.

Hope this helps.
Hi many thanks to all riplys on my broblems , after all the riply on my twin 84 Mac SGX

i deed same canges.

1) Cange all fuel lines for beter fuel flow.

2) Re the props i deed cange to 1667 cut to 64 5.5 cup.

3) Cange to Mac Coy NC-9 Glow plugs are colder.

4) I deed order the Flow Meter too.

Hop by nest weekend i will try to make a beter run with the SGX.

Many thanks to all and keep on posting.
Hi this are the fuel lins that i deed canged and the props are ceducted to 64mm.
 
Nice paint job.... Looks like one of m.... well nice paint job... LOL!
Sounds like the engines are too lean. If this is your first time using MAC engines they often sound to rich on the beach which makes one want to lean them down too much.

You may want to run with some lower pitch props. 5.2 to 5.6 1667s or H38s or maybe even stock with no pitch. I am not sure the holes in the cowl matter much. I have run with just one in the middle similar to what I see on yours.

Are those pipes the .90/1" pipes or the .67/.84 pipes. I tried the .67/.84 pipe on an .84 but it doesn't seem to be performing as of yet. It's awesome on a .67 but haven't found the combo for the .84. The Black AB pipes work well though. Just some things to consider.

But before you add to your already expensive investment because all of us who have run twins know that you have, try this. You may want to richen them up so more fuel gets to them. A flow meter is great once you have found your set-up. They help you maintain it in different weather conditions.

It will take trial and error to get it there. But try richening in the needle (you know... open the needle valve up so more fuel flows through). You can do this by starting one engine. Idle it... then give the engine full throttle briefly before the engine revs to high (you don't want to blow those motors that are almost extinct) if the engine revs to high open the valve up a little more. Do it until it is obvious that the engine is not reving anywhere near it's peak then shut that engine down. Start the other engine and repeat until you get the engine acheiving a similar rev as the first. Remember you don't want the engines to rev up much at all. Then start them both together. Adjust the needles so they sound like they are revving up to the same RPM. Remember... you don't want them to revv up much at all. After you have them running the same then launch the boat. The boat should keep running though not near it's top speed. The engines should trot along at a moderate RPM. Listen to see if the engines are running the same speed. If they are not... close up the needle valve slightly on the one that is coldest after you bring it in. Run the boat again and repeat until you get the engine running the same. The boat should be running with no problem.

Once the engines are running the same you can start screwing in the needle valve maybe an 1/8th of turn at a time. You better bring a lot of fuel as this is definitely the slow (yet cautious) road to the solution. Plus you don't want to run your engines to lean anyway from what Andy says it's easy to stick a piston on the twins although I have yet to do that on a MAC... but like I said you don't want to take a chance on destroying an engine especially hard to find/get ones.

Once you have the boat really humming I would suspect you would be running between 85 and 90mph. Once the boat starts singing pretty well then you can Flow it. Then try different props, and pipe lengths. The last twin I ran closest to your set-up was radared in a race one day at 87.

Hope this helps.
Hi many thanks to all riplys on my broblems , after all the riply on my twin 84 Mac SGX

i deed same canges.

1) Cange all fuel lines for beter fuel flow.

2) Re the props i deed cange to 1667 cut to 64 5.5 cup.

3) Cange to Mac Coy NC-9 Glow plugs are colder.

4) I deed order the Flow Meter too.

Hop by nest weekend i will try to make a beter run with the SGX.

Many thanks to all and keep on posting.
Hi this are the fuel lins that i deed canged and the props are ceducted to 64mm.
 
Follow Roger's tuning instructions and it sould run fine. MAC 84's will make many laps around the pond, even if the props are way too big, if the needles are set rich enough.

Make sure your carbs are open 1/3 or more for your idle posision on the beach and the idle sounds very rich. Anything less and you'll have an engine that is too lean when the boat hits the water.
 
Follow Roger's tuning instructions and it sould run fine. MAC 84's will make many laps around the pond, even if the props are way too big, if the needles are set rich enough.
Make sure your carbs are open 1/3 or more for your idle posision on the beach and the idle sounds very rich. Anything less and you'll have an engine that is too lean when the boat hits the water.
Id make sure your useing high flow needles,those Macs love lotsa fuel flow volume
 
Back
Top