Trident Gas Outboard

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Not much response so I take it not much experience out there with the Trident. But now it's on it's way anyhow, so guess I'll find out if the hull is any good, LOL. Came with a MHZ Z-drive leg as well.
 
I like the inside step but I think it will still need some ride pads so it doesn't hook around the corners. Let me know how the hull does. Thanks
 
Bruce Clark said:
I like the inside step but I think it will still need some ride pads so it doesn't hook around the corners. Let me know how the hull does. Thanks
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Thanks for the input. Could you elaborate a little what you mean by ride pads? I'm a noob in the tunnel hull world
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Bruce Clark said:
I like the inside step but I think it will still need some ride pads so it doesn't hook around the corners. Let me know how the hull does. Thanks
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Bruce,

I thought the same thing until I looked at the sponson deadrise or dehydral. They are basically flat to maybe 2-3 degrees max. This would be in-line with a full size tunnel style that makes what I call "hook" single buoy turns instead of "sweeping" multi-buoy turns like we make in RC Boat Racing. This type of hull design would typically not need auxiliary stumble pads as "bite" in the turns is minimal anyway. If the deadrise angle is increased to what we typically see on racing designed tunnels, (6-9 degrees deadrise), then the stumble pads would be helpful to limit the "bite" to what is needed for that particular design to keep the hull from tripping in the turns. This design also looks to have a flat sponson design bow to stern with basically zero rocker more typical of a catamaran design instead of a tunnel hull. It would be very interesting to watch a full speed video of this hull on the water and in the turns.
 
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Thanks for all the informative input. This is valuable for a guy with no experience around tunnels. Measured the deadrise and came to 4 degrees (aft sponson), and rises to 5,5 degrees in front. Altso layed down straightedge along the sponson to see the rocker (if i understand the concept of rocker correct).

The word dehydral I'm not sure about. Is it the same as deadrise? Tried some googleing but didn't get much wiser.

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Thomas,

Some call deadrise "dehydral", same thing. Flat is fast and good for SAW but good luck turning without a turn fin like a Prather. I am curious about a few additional measurements. What is the deadrise measured near the end of the sponsons (transom end of the hull), and in 2" increments up to equal with the nose on the center section? Also, what is the length of this boat from sponson end-to-end? Last, measure from the transom end of the sponson up until you first start to see light at the start of the rocker with the straight edge in place like your last pic. Thanks.
 
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Ron-maybe you should be cautious about advising this guy about this boat. The link provided tells the size of the boat and also has a video. It says "semi-scale" in the ad and I am assuming it is a design from the full size boats. You can see in the video that it makes-1- pin turns which is typical of all full size boats. They have no reason to make sweeping turns as there courses are not set up for that. This boat probably will never make good turns on an R/C course even with the ride pads. It is not designed properly for R/C use and from what I can see the size of it makes it very easy to blow-over. However, it is a nice looking boat and might make a good gas boat depending on how fast he would like to go but it will be tough to drive.
 
Thanks Tommy. Yes, I agree. You are seeing the same points I am seeing as well. Definitely setup for a different type of course.
 
Thanks for your honesty. Just to clarify this boat will never see any racing on a course, there are no class for this hull in my erea. A scale looking boat was exactly what I was after, and if I get 45-50 mph out of it I'm happy. Regarding it's size, isn't 48" a quite normal size for these hulls in the 1/4 scale / gasclass? Or are we talking tunnel size and too much lift?

Thanks

Thomas
 
Thomas,

48" seems to be the perfect size for gas tunnels. A lot of us on IW race, so we are always looking at how we make a setup faster and more competitive on the water. I was curious about the hull after you posted, as there are some that may not want to build a wooden kit and was wondering if this might be a choice for them and to determine changes that could be made to make it a competitive racer. If the scale look was what you were after, looks like you are all set.
 
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Ron, I get the difference between scale/fun run vs. racing
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I've been racing gas offshore class and some in smaller hydro class, altough it's been a few years. Scale look was never a issue when racing. Now I'm more about building scale boats with acceptable performance for the occational weekend fun.

I will ofcourse do the measurements for you if you are interrested. This hull is altso sold under the MHZ brand, ecxactly the same hull.

Now I'm starting to wonder if for my use it will be better building this as an IB (fake OB). I cant for the life of me find sources for a proper exhaust system for OB. Any idea?
 
Thomas,

I also have a gas outboard tunnel and the best combination I have found for power has been the Lawless G Lower, Zenoah engine, and Quickdraw outboard pipe.
 
Thanks for all the links. I already have a leg. A geared MHZ unit http://www.mhz-powerboats.com/category-11/category-23/Outboard---Lower-Section.html

For my scale looks I like the geared vs the cable legs, although I know that the Lawless is great. I also have a motor, a stock G260. The G300 has more torque I would think?

Have you seen the pipes that wrap around the motor? Maybe they are custom made. The Quickdraw looked good though
 

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