Tin Tanks

[Tony Newland]

I think I'm going to make a few tin tanks for our 12G's and looking for some insight on what to use...... any advice?

I'm studying the KEP drawings on the baffle systems and will employ most of them

 

[shawdaddy]

Join Metimeproductions and they have a video on there about making a tank for this boat. This will give you all the info you will need. Hope this helps. Ryon Shaw

 

[Richard Dahlheimer]

Join Metimeproductions and they have a video on there about making a tank for this boat. This will give you all the info you will need. Hope this helps. Ryon Shaw

If you can work with stainless steel, it will save you the problem of getting rust in the tanks. Richard D

 

[griz2575]

Me time's show with Mike Z is great for building a JAE 12 tank

 

[Blackout]

Join Metimeproductions and they have a video on there about making a tank for this boat. This will give you all the info you will need. Hope this helps. Ryon Shaw

If you can work with stainless steel, it will save you the problem of getting rust in the tanks. Richard D

Does tin corrode easily?

 

[Grimracer]

Some info that might be worth sharing.

As we know the fuel we use draws moisture from the air.. we are boaters so we have lots of moisture everyplace.

A SS tank is not a bad idea BUT the first thing to fail on a fuel tank will always be the brass tubing.

Typically a tin tank costs less to build and is just as strong as a SS one. Its also a bunch easer to solder for the new tank builder dude!

One can use tin with complete confidence as long as you empty the tank after you are done running for the day and use some WD-40 (or whatever) to wipe the tank down with after the day is done. One would do this with SS anyway.

To me.. I have yet to find the "REAL" advantage of SS over tin..

I have a tin tank that I still use now that’s going on its 9th summer of racing.. At 3 dollars worth of parts and some time.. it does not owe me a darn thing.

Grim

 

[Niklas Edlund]

Join Metimeproductions and they have a video on there about making a tank for this boat. This will give you all the info you will need. Hope this helps. Ryon Shaw

If you can work with stainless steel, it will save you the problem of getting rust in the tanks. Richard D

Does tin corrode easily?

On the outside yes, take it out after each day of use and wipe it off (or it will get rust spots). I spray a light coat of WD40 on the outside before I put it in the boat. On the inside its oil in the fuel that protects it pretty good I beleive (but Im not sure). I would think its the brass tubuing that will corode the most and that's the same in SS or tin sheet made tanks... We opened up an stainless Eagle tank from CMD a few years ago (the hopper started to leak) and it was not a pretty sight inside... So I prefere tin (as I also have a complete roll of K&S tin as Mike Z).

As Mike mention in the tank building video - I would think the brass tubing is the weak point anywho...

 

[Niklas Edlund]

Mike, if you "wash" it inside also with WD40 - how much do you rinse it before you race? Ever had an issue with that (clearing WD40 out of the tank)?

(In a hopper style of "its-a-*****-to-make-tank" you would need to fill booth the hopper and then some WD40 in the main tank also making that procedure more complicated then a tank with your baffle style).

 

[Grimracer]

I don’t pickle the inside of the tank during race season. However if one wants they can fill the tank with Denatured alcohol, then cap, during the off season.

Grim

 

[Niklas Edlund]

I don’t pickle the inside of the tank during race season. However if one wants they can fill the tank with Denatured alcohol, then cap, during the off season.

Grim

Me neither, but it sounded like you said that in the video (in my ears).

 

[Tony Newland]

Great info once again, thanks guys!

 

[Marty Davis]

Some info that might be worth sharing.

As we know the fuel we use draws moisture from the air.. we are boaters so we have lots of moisture everyplace.

A SS tank is not a bad idea BUT the first thing to fail on a fuel tank will always be the brass tubing.

Typically a tin tank costs less to build and is just as strong as a SS one. Its also a bunch easer to solder for the new tank builder dude!

One can use tin with complete confidence as long as you empty the tank after you are done running for the day and use some WD-40 (or whatever) to wipe the tank down with after the day is done. One would do this with SS anyway.

To me.. I have yet to find the "REAL" advantage of SS over tin..

I have a tin tank that I still use now that’s going on its 9th summer of racing.. At 3 dollars worth of parts and some time.. it does not owe me a darn thing.

Grim

Mike:

I use ONLY tin tanks now since I have had several where the solder failed on a stainless tank. Always happens at the worst time too

I don't rinse out the tank after a days running, just empty it completely and wipe the outside with WD40. I sometimes get a small amount of rust which can be easily wiped off with scotchbrite. I have been using the same tank without problem for many years in my 20 hydro.

Will probably never go to stainless unless someone comes up with a way to weld them.

 

[Grimracer]

Marty brings up a good point..

SS is and can be harder to keep together. Let me add.. SS is more rigged overall and the tank has to be able to flex somewhat to retain a solder joint. The tank has to flex as much as it can past or before the solder joint. If its forced to flex at the solder joint you will see a failure in time.

Also.. for what its worth.. I never use a electric fuel pump on my tin tanks. (agian a resion for flexing) I have seen guys blow them up or vacuum them to nothing using a e pump. You can still ruin a tank with a hand pump but its less likely.

Also.. NEVER POLISH a metal tank to a bright finish using a power tools.. solder will melt at the temps polishing can cause.

ROCKET and ROLL and keep us posted.

Go to metime to learn more about fuel tank building. The vid gives lots of hints and tips.

Grim