The radio setup

[Jeff Torgalski]

Jerry Dunlap showed me a picture of his setup for his villain. I printed it, and I also printed a copy of Mike Z's setup, and brought it to my local hobby shop. They told me that Jerry's hardware is probably obsolete, and Mike Z's setup is bad because it's metal to metal and this can cause interference. What should I do?

 

[sjhauge]

The radio setup of Mike Z's does not cause any radio problems from metal to metal contact. The only metal to metal is the switch extension leaving the radio box. The tolerance between the tubing & shaft is tight & water proof. The cables are plastic coated. It is a durable & very light weight setup. I built mine that way & have had NO problems at all. ;D ;D

 

[Jerry Dunlap]

OBSOLETE??!!! Is that another way of saying, "We don't have Robart Seals in stock?"

How many tunnel boats has that hobby dealer designed and built? How many times has he had a radio box upside down? I've had my Villain on it backside many times(not a desirable postion by the way) and not once did I have radio in the water box, err, I mean water in the radio box.

JD(Waterless in Washington)

 

[Propjockey]

LOL! Jerry, you're obsolete! That's funny! Race him for pinkslips--then ask him who's obsolete! ;D

 

[Jeff Torgalski]

Yesterday I left my wallet at the bank, and 30 mins later after realizing it was missing, I went back to get it and the teller told me a lady found it and said she made a scene and told the teller she should get a reward for returning it, so she left the teller her phone number to give to me. That's disgusting.

Anyways, what are some good servos to get for this kit, and where can I purchase them and some robart seals?

 

[Jerry Dunlap]

Jeff,

I use Futaba r/c equipment, but any of the popular names work fine.

For throttle control, I use the S148(41.7 oz. in. of torque).

For steering, I use a S9304(69.4 oz. in. of torque).

All the major r/c manufacturers have various servos with different amount of power.

You can purchase servos from towerhobbies.com

The correct name for the Robart radio box seal is: Water Tight Output Bushing #400. If towerhobbies.com doesn't have this item, check the website for Robart: http://www.robart.com - e-mail [email protected]

Jerry D.

 

[Ron Olson]

The problem might be with the "Genius" at the LHS. Most don't know squat about R/C boats. They are busy selling trains, planes and telescopes (thought I was going to say automobiles didn't you?). Jerry and Mike's boats have been fully tested before they hit the streets so I would think that they know what they're talking about. I did some work on a prototype hull and it cost me a lot of time and money to find out what worked and what did not.

 

[Grimracer]

Im doing it rong?

Holy cow why dident anybody tell me...

Grim-rongdoer ;D

 

[Propjockey]

Of course you're doing it wrong, Grim! DUH!!

You should set your boats up like the one that won the 2002 IMPBA International Championship for stock tunnels and the other one that won in Modified.

Geez...how do you expect to win a championship race. ???

BTW...was it hard with all that radio interference? ;D

Jeff, you asked what you should do. You should find a different hobby shop.

 

[Jeff Torgalski]

LOL

You guys are a riot. I'll just go to Tower, but if anybody has other places to suggest..... :

now's your chance to plug your favorite store/mail order place......

 

[sjhauge]

You will need to go to www.horizonhobby.com to get the hangar9 pull pull wheel. They will also have the other linkage parts you need as well. It's too bad your LHS was not much help.

 

[Slideblues]

Sounds to me like the LHS owner could not find his Butt in the dark with both hands

Slideblues 8)

 

[Grimracer]

Side

You know that i worked at a LHS for 10 years before working as a Mech. Tech. and we only sold the things that we knew sompthing about. You can find LHS with gaming (not ours) you can find LHS with craft stuff (not ours).. Lets face it if you walk into a hobby shop and they have foam balls, puzzles, and other stuff like that you are going to get an answer to your question that less then on the money. If you have to worry about restocking doll heads, paint by numbers and other stuff you will not be in tune to your RC crowd.

Grim the X "Hobby Master Jr"

 

[Jeff Torgalski]

I know what you mean, Mike. You're right.

This store I went to had nothing but r/c planes and cars from wall to wall though. The guy was just trying to cover up his ignorance of the subject, for sure.

So what's up with the solid rod setup with a collar in the middle of the rod for adjustments? Is this pretty good? It sounds very simple. .072 rod size is the norm, right?

Because tightening the cables by unhooking the threaded clevises and twisting them made my fingers raw. :'(]

waahhhh!

 

[Grimracer]

Jeff

The .072" rod is for the on/off switch. Some will set there switches up this way and others not.

The cables work well because once you are close to your first setup you never unhook anything ever again. You just crack the jam nuts lose on the clevis and turn the cable to losen or tighten to make your adjustment.

Can it get any simpler then this???

Also as a ruel of thumb i try and make things as easy to do as posible and while doing this it must meet my needs. The cable system is the best system i have found for weight, strenght and adjustablity. It is a little toughter to set up but once you have done one, the rest are easy.

Grim

 

[garrett.randall]

Hey guys. Thought I'd chime in about the Robart seals. It seems Jerry and I are on the same wave length. I have used them in the past as well and they work great. They are a two piece unit, one glues in a hole you create on the box and the other piece slides through the mounted part. On either end of the slide there is a hole for your linkages or clevis system. You will have a short linkage from the servo to the inside hole, and another from the outside hole to your steering. I am assuming only one, unless you use a dual linkage for the steering. The pieces fit together in a square shape, and are grey in color. Yes these are "old school" because I learned about them setting up boats 20 years ago, but they really do work. One thing I may add is add silicone grease to the slide when getting ready to use. They are still available at Al's in Illinois. www.alshobbyshop.com They are located by Mike Z's stuff on the pegboards that slide out (if you can make it there) otherwise Cindy can probably find them for you. Another testomonial, there is another guy in district 4 who builds boats (I wont say because I don't want to offend MIKE but they are nice WOODSTUFF boats) but he uses them as well for his customers.

My two cents

Garrett Randall

 

[user 115]

Woodstuff Tunnels rule!!

 

[Grimracer]

Garret

No chance you can offend me on this. Mike is one heck of a craftsman and a good racing frend.

I have used the Robart seals in the past and have only cool things to say about them.

Charley your WS flys... It is the fastest one i have seen and it runs on bad water like crazy..

Cant wait to race with you guys next year.

Grim

 

[Mark Anderson]

I just read this thread for the first time. I about died laughing! DUNLAP IS OBSOLETE! The guy at the hobby shop obviously knows him personally. The hard thing to believe is that Jerry built a radio box that doesn't leak.

Seriously the methods used by either of these guys will work great.

Mark