Steering setups

[MarkScott]

Hey guys, hopefully you can help out this tunnel nut.. Currently rebuilding the radio box for our unknown Sport .40.. The old setup used brass sleave and rod to bridge thru the radio box. Is there a better way? Currently have some Robart arms, will this work?

Here's the new layout.

Can you tell me the plan designer? Boat is wood framed. Believe it was built in Lexington, Ky. Possible back in the late 80's.. Builder of the boat ran in Indy I understand.

Side shot..

Any help is greatly appreciated..

Mark..

 

[PHIL THOMAS]

Mark that kind of looks like a Dave Frank sport 40 built from plans he had, with a little different style cowl, maybe a Steve Muck cowl if it is fiberglass.

use these push rod seals, G&M silicone seals with push rod ends or #100 Bruline seals

for the rudder push rod use carbon fibre push rod, Sig #sh654 or Dave Brown Products

get them at

ALS’ HOBBY SHOP 121ADDISON ELMHURST ILL. 60126 630-832-4908

G&M MODELS 17W323 16TH ST. OAKBROOK TERR. IL. 60181 630-279-2451

PHIL THOMAS

 

[Mike Hughes]

I was thinking the same thing. Dave Frank version one sport 40. I would stay away from the robarts. Seen them bind up too many times. About half way from the transom to the radio box, you will want to put a support for the pushrod. If you don't, it will cause flutter on the rudder going down the shutes. Just anything to keep the rod from bouncing up and down will do. I just use a piece of ply with a hole in it. I mount it to the engine well wall with a couple of support blocks.

Mike

 

[MarkScott]

Cowl is also wood framed. Boat orginally had a aluminum rod, 1/4" +/-, for steering. I've got plenty of 4-40 rods, so those would be used. CF might be the route in the future if a weight is a concern.

I did locate a Bru-line seal in my collection. Works for me.

Thanks for the quick advise.. B) Gotta go work on them.. Water is no longer frozen

Mark...

 

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I really like the "ROBART" Air & Retract sytem part #400 water tight output bushing. Never leak and don't wear out.