Sport 20

[SCOTT WITHERELL]

Now with the season starting to change ,with warmer weather,("soon" I hope), I'm back working on the sport 20 mold, put flange on today, the clamps are holding on the reinforce ply on the back, so the out side flange won't be so flimsy,(so when I build up the mat and cloth on it). After this is done, I'll be putting on 4-5 coats of epoxy primer to be sanded and then polished. before I spray on the tooling gel. I'll keep it posted here with the progress,and stages of the mold build.

Oh yea I know ,,,,"DO NOT FOR GET THE RELEASE AGENT"!!! before I put on the tooling gel.

Feels good to be back to work on it.(sick most of winter).

 

[namba276]

Looks real good. keep up the good work. man the sport classes are dying... keep building them boats.

Bob

 

[opio]

im just starting to get into the sport classes, but i do have to say thats a nice lookin hull

 

[SCOTT WITHERELL]

Still plugging away,(LOL),Got the 4 coats of primer on and black gide coat.Sanded 1/2 this morning, I stopped to watch nascar race.will sand rest after race,have found only a few spots that are low that need a little filler.I'll be putting on the last coats of primer ,Wed .Then I will polish the plug to a grade A finish, till the tool gel gets here, that I orderd friday.

Hope to have bottom female plug done in a week or two.

 

[tnrcboatracer]

Looks good. Do you plan to use a butt joint or lap joint between the deck and hull?

 

[SCOTT WITHERELL]

Looks good. Do you plan to use a butt joint or lap joint between the deck and hull?

This is my first time making a hull,I've all ready molded the cowl,I have a 1/8"X1/8" Lip that sticks out at the top of the bottom plug and the Large flang is laminated on to that.When the deck molded is done, it will have a simular lip and I'll put the hull in a jig(to keep square)and laminate the two hafves at the 1/8" lips.is this what you mean by lap joint,and let me know what butt joint is ,thanks for asking,

Any Different Ideas on how to join the two hafves would kindly be appreciated.Need all the Ideas I can get.

Thanks Scott Witherell

 

[jsu101]

that is a good looking boat

 

[Rugie]

Looks good. Do you plan to use a butt joint or lap joint between the deck and hull?

This is my first time making a hull,I've all ready molded the cowl,I have a 1/8"X1/8" Lip that sticks out at the top of the bottom plug and the Large flang is laminated on to that.When the deck molded is done, it will have a simular lip and I'll put the hull in a jig(to keep square)and laminate the two hafves at the 1/8" lips.is this what you mean by lap joint,and let me know what butt joint is ,thanks for asking,

Any Different Ideas on how to join the two hafves would kindly be appreciated.Need all the Ideas I can get.

Thanks Scott Witherell

Hey Scott,

Got a 2nd overall at the Brandon Race with the GTX, a lot of complaiments on the hull. Gave a guy your # wants a fiberglass one, when you them get done. It ran great, handled well on Sat.(windy) and Sun.(calm), had to add a 1oz. tank(that CMB sucks some fuel). Keep on pluggin'.

Paul

 

[SayMikey]

Looks good. Do you plan to use a butt joint or lap joint between the deck and hull?

This is my first time making a hull,I've all ready molded the cowl,I have a 1/8"X1/8" Lip that sticks out at the top of the bottom plug and the Large flang is laminated on to that.When the deck molded is done, it will have a simular lip and I'll put the hull in a jig(to keep square)and laminate the two hafves at the 1/8" lips.is this what you mean by lap joint,and let me know what butt joint is ,thanks for asking,

Any Different Ideas on how to join the two hafves would kindly be appreciated.Need all the Ideas I can get.

Thanks Scott Witherell

Hey Scott,

Got a 2nd overall at the Brandon Race with the GTX, a lot of complaiments on the hull. Gave a guy your # wants a fiberglass one, when you them get done. It ran great, handled well on Sat.(windy) and Sun.(calm), had to add a 1oz. tank(that CMB sucks some fuel). Keep on pluggin'.

Paul

On my mold there is a male button and a female button these are all around on the parting board area. When both halfs are layed up you join them with putty> epoxy and cabosil. I add some milled glass for strength and put lotsa clamps all around. Send me your email and i will send you some pics. I have a boat in the mold curing right now......... Mike

 

[onehot340]

I told you that boat looked familiar, just could not place it. Great looking boat!! I was one of those compliments over the weekend. Nice to see a different boat out there running besides the usual. Great scale appearance also. Keep up the good work, I will be following the build and anticipating the fiberglass version.

Jamie

 

[Bill Gibson]

I also saw the boat run at the Brandon 2 day......VERY nice lookin boat....looked good in the water too!!

 

[SCOTT WITHERELL]

Getting ready to put on parting wax on. ("wax on ,wax off")where's Mr meoggie!!

glad to see the weather getting better,clod last week held me up.

 

[joefroooo]

Getting ready to put on parting wax on. ("wax on ,wax off")where's Mr meoggie!!glad to see the weather getting better,clod last week held me up.

Scott, Looks like you have the hard part done. Like SayMike says put some buttons or as I call them alignment pins on the flange that goes around the hull. I use plastic 3/4 " Dome buttons from home depot. They are used for the legs on chairs so will not scratch floor and have a nail molded into them. Drill a hole in the parting board for the nail. Put some of that mold wax under the plastic button and push thru the board and super glue the nail on the back side.. The wax under the button will keep the resin from wicking under and making the parting board hard to remove.

The pins are necessary so when you join the top deck to the bottom the seams will align. If you want some pictures of the process PM me and give me your email.

Sorry for the long post. Joe

 

[tnrcboatracer]

BOnding the two shells while still in hte mold is a butt loint. It ususally requires a tape reinforcement on the bond line on the inside. A lap joint is where the botton and top overlap around the perimeter. A lap joint usually doesn't work on a scale or sport boat because it doesn't look very scale. Many monos and tunnels are lap joints. One key to a butt jouint is getting to the tape reinforcement to make sure it is bedded well.

Great looking plug, by the way. I hope you plan to PVA spray after the wax.

 

[RodneyPierce]

BOnding the two shells while still in hte mold is a butt loint. It ususally requires a tape reinforcement on the bond line on the inside. A lap joint is where the botton and top overlap around the perimeter. A lap joint usually doesn't work on a scale or sport boat because it doesn't look very scale. Many monos and tunnels are lap joints. One key to a butt jouint is getting to the tape reinforcement to make sure it is bedded well.
Great looking plug, by the way. I hope you plan to PVA spray after the wax.

DEF. PVA SPRAY!!!!!! Me and Terry made that mistake about 4 times before we figured out that was the problem.

 

[Chris Wood]

Great looking plug, by the way. I hope you plan to PVA spray after the wax.

DEF. PVA SPRAY!!!!!! Me and Terry made that mistake about 4 times before we figured out that was the problem.

Your welcome. B)

 

[SCOTT WITHERELL]

Have the PVA, going to a few (2) test runs with just jelcoat and 2 layers of mat, to help season the plug and give me some laying out the mat practice to find the best way to keep up with the polyester resin(gel up time).been doing a lot of research on line here and other sights. found this on line,does this make sence ?. http://www.rexco-usa.com/why.htm let me know, I do not mined wasting materal, just do not want to wast the plug(you guys know its lot of work to redo plug).

Thanks for the replys, need all the help & ideas I can get : Scott N. Witherell

 

[tnrcboatracer]

Have the PVA, going to a few (2) test runs with just jelcoat and 2 layers of mat, to help season the plug and give me some laying out the mat practice to find the best way to keep up with the polyester resin(gel up time).been doing a lot of research on line here and other sights. found this on line,does this make sence ?. http://www.rexco-usa.com/why.htm let me know, I do not mined wasting materal, just do not want to wast the plug(you guys know its lot of work to redo plug).
Thanks for the replys, need all the help & ideas I can get : Scott N. Witherell

I use the Coverall film.

 

[P THOMAS]

1. Prep the mold with a PVA compatible mold release agent.

2. Apply PVA.

3. Apply production gel coat (and optional laminate).

The key thing is compatable mold release agent (wax)

The Part All wax is good but a pain to buff off, this wax has NO silicones in it which is important.

Use only wax with no silicone additve.

Silicone in most car waxes will cause the pva to fisheye and not cover the mold.

Theonly other wax that is no silicone is Simoniz Original Paste Wax in a yellow can.

Simoniz wax

This is the only place you can buy it it is not in stores. It works much better than PartAll wax.

PVA All the info says spray light coats. For small molds like RC boats It is ok to brush it on using a brown fine camel hair art brush, these can be found in craft or hobby shop. Brush on a wet coat go back and spread out any runs or extra wet spots. Dont really matter if it looks uneven the pva will dry to a very thin film.

They recomend only wax after a few parts cause they are trying to get parts out of the mold glossy with no finish work.

If you are making epoxy parts it is not a concern to have a perfect part cause it will be primed and painted anyway.

Wax and pva every time and the parts will not stick

KISS

good luck

PHIL

 

[SCOTT WITHERELL]

Did my 1st layup on plug,I did some thing stuppid an added acetone to the 2cd coat of black gelcoat to reduce it and it lifted in 10-12 spots size of a dime.call the company that I got it from and they said that was my problem most likely or I didn't stur in the hardner well enough,there leaning on the acetone,because they use a styren base reducer. But Im not going to add reducer on the next one and lay the gel on thick on both coats.If it wasn't for the lifting, I would of had a good female mold.But I'm not going to wast this bad mold ,I'll use it to laminate the hull and deck together for alinement.

I lived and learned, On how not to make a female mold.

I'll keep pluggin away, LOL!

P.S. The plug and mold seperated really easy and nice (PVA-it, thanks guys)with just 4 wedges and almost fell on the floor.

Thanks Again for the help and Ideas,I''ll keep you post on progress. Scott N. Witherell