Sikkens Paint

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Propjockey

Well-Known Member
Joined
Sep 16, 2002
Messages
2,105
I talked to a local body shop about painting hulls and they said "No problem." But they use Sikkens exclusively.

Anyone have experience with it?
 
You will not be disapointed!!!!!!! I have my twin paint with it. Be sure that they use all the hardners and clears. This is a good paint. Twin was paint three year ago.

It is fuel proof.

I still have the orgianl paint and will get more. ;)
 
Propjockey said:
I talked to a local body shop about painting hulls and they said "No problem." But they use Sikkens exclusively.
Anyone have experience with it?

104492[/snapback]

I have not personally shot any Sikkens, but know people who have, it's very good paint. :)
 
Thanks guys. So what should a decent paint job (primer, base and clear) run on a D mono using a high quality paint? The guy I taked to said it would probably take about three hours labor, not counting drying time.

Another concern...He mentioned "baking" the paint. I asked what temps and he said 130 to 140 degrees for a couple hours. Will this have an adverse effect on the fiberglass or epoxies?

I have not personally shot any Sikkens, but know people who have, it's very good paint.
Don, what equipment do you use to spray?
 
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Propjockey said:
Thanks guys. So what should a decent paint job (primer, base and clear) run on a D mono using a high quality paint? The guy I taked to said it would probably take about three hours labor, not counting drying time.
Another concern...He mentioned "baking" the paint. I asked what temps and he said 130 to 140 degrees for a couple hours. Will this have an adverse effect on the fiberglass or epoxies?

I have not personally shot any Sikkens, but know people who have, it's very good paint.
Don, what equipment do you use to spray?

104573[/snapback]

I usually shoot PPG Concept Acrylic Urethanes thru HVLP detail guns. The Smokin' Joe's will be HOK & PPG. B)

I would not go that high temp wise when "baking" a 'glass hull. :blink:
 
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hey jockey, sikkens paint is really good stuff,kinda pricey,but you will be happy with the results, my brother inlaw painted a 1/8 scale bud boat with autocryle

that just happened to be the same stuff they used on the real boat,then he applied

autoclear over the thing after he set the decales

now, you dont have to use clear over the autocryle, it's fuelproof

you can use a small compressor,with tank and a touch up gun,from sears

so good luck with the paint job!

from

norm j
 
Propjockey said:
Thanks guys. So what should a decent paint job (primer, base and clear) run on a D mono using a high quality paint? The guy I taked to said it would probably take about three hours labor, not counting drying time.
Another concern...He mentioned "baking" the paint. I asked what temps and he said 130 to 140 degrees for a couple hours. Will this have an adverse effect on the fiberglass or epoxies?

I have not personally shot any Sikkens, but know people who have, it's very good paint.
Don, what equipment do you use to spray?

104573[/snapback]

Baking it in a heated spray booth just accelerates the cure and eliminates the waiting for "Full cure hardness" and chemical resistance. I perfer a true epoxy paint when running nitro boats, but most use the urethanes. Make sure you let it cure thoroughly before getting nitro on it. Also, make sure they use a fully catalyzed primer. I perfer DP48LF(PPG) Its a true epoxy primer/sealer. That way, chemicals can't get under a paint edge and attack the primer, turning the paint loose.
 
Bob Finn said:
Baking it in a heated spray booth  just accelerates the cure  and eliminates the waiting for "Full cure hardness"  and chemical resistance.
105697[/snapback]

Yes that is true... to a point. All the painters I've known have said an air cured finish will always be tougher than a baked finish. Baking came about only to increase the car count numbers in the booth. And remember, high temp baking booths were designed for metal bodied cars. Unless a fiberglass hull has been sitting for at least 6 months it is not fully cured out & it doesn't matter if it's polyester or epoxy resin. My concern, & I've seen it happen, is too high a temp accelerating the natural curing proccess of a glass hull & altering the boat's shape. Most 2 part catalyzing paints like epoxy & urethanes will air cure in 8 to 12 hours so why risk it. ;)
 
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