PLEASE HELP!!!

[Kris Flynn]

I just found out that im running a 27 turn single with and Epic D-4 Can, on a Kyosho Dolfin Outboard II leg with the original plastic prop.

Im not sure of how good this motor is, so can you please give me your feedback on its preformance. Also does having this motor change anything with the props i should use? should i go for a X435 or a X440 on my boat, or something different again?

Im using a homemade and designed Tunnel that is 600mm X 270mm made out of balsa wood, im using only 6 cells and a mechanical speed controller.

DOES ANYONE HERE PLAY WITH ELECTRIC TUNNELS OR KNOW ANYWHERE I CAN FIND SOMEONE WHO DOES??

 

[TimD]

Kris,

The 27 turn "05" motor is what is known as a stock motor in electric cars. Therefore there are a lot faster motors available. A general rule of thumb is the less turns the faster, but they will also draw more current and be harder on your speed controller as a result. They also give less run time from your batteries.

My suggestion would be to go for something like a 17 turn motor. The X435 will probably be too big - try a smaller prop or you will load the motor up too much.

 

[MikeC]

I also run electric out board tunnels.I have an old metal MRP out board with a 700 BB Neo and I run a X442 with 14 cels.I would suggest running a 700 BB 8.4 for around 39.00 and run 12 cells if you can fit it.This is the cheapest and most durable motor you could run and its the best bang for the buck.I would suggest making a brass liner for your flex shaft though.You can buy the mount for the 700 from Andrew at Fastelectrics.com or you can make one.I am ruuning an old MRP Bud Light at the moment but plan on ordering a DPI tunnel or a H&M from Germany.

 

[Kris Flynn]

Mike,

Im only running 6 cells, if i were to run 12, would i put my 2 packs in series or parallel?? T

he H&M tunnels look pretty nice, i wouldnt mind having one of them, also the MicroKat they sell would be a good little speedy boat, i think the specs said it was about 300-400mm long and aboput 200m wide....pretty dam small but it does look like a really good boat

Tim,

Thanks for the info, i thought my motor was good lol but now i now the truth...its not very good hehe from what ive been hearing the motor to go for would be the 700BB but i think i will only be running 6 or even 7 i dont know what to do ???

Is it worth getting a ESC because im using a tamiya mechanical speed controller and it seems to be doing the job fine??

ANYONE KNOW WHERE I CAN FIND SOME GOOD TUNNEL BOAT VIDEOS, Electric or Gas ??

Sorry about all the questions, lol

Reagrds

Kris

 

[MikeC]

What you would do with the cells is hook one packs neg to the other packs positive and then that leaves you with one neg and one positive and that goes to your RC-Hydros speed controller.The RC Hydros speed controller is the best for this aplication becasue its waterproof and you will be getting things wet when it flips over.I just ordered a DPI tunnel to set up and I should have it done next week so I will get you some pic's of it.Would you be interested in my Bud Light boat that is all set up for an electric outboard.I made a plywood transom and a custom radio box and it is in mint condition.If the mechanical speed control is working fine then you are not going fast enough .I have to start out at half throttle with my motor on 14 cells and wide open you have to be very careful.Its very fast with the 700 motors.The mechanical controls just wont let you start off slow and work your way up,They are full speed or nothing and I am not sure it would hold up to 12 or 14 cells.

 

[Kris Flynn]

Do you have any pics of the Bud Light? what exactly does it come with? and what sort of price range am i looking at

The Bud Light Tunnel sounds and looks like a pretty nice boat, also i think i will only be running my boats on 6-7 cells because i was told if you run them on around 12 they wear out alot quicker, im not sure if this is true or not so please give me your opinion.

Also i dont think i will upgrade my tamiya mechanical speed contoller for now because i want to upgrade to a metal prop then maybe get 16 turn triple arm to replace my 27 turn and still use my original can, then i will probably think about a ESC

Kris

 

[Kris Flynn]

i was also wondering what boring out a prop consists of? someone told me i should use a bored out X435 with my 16 turn triple motor...what does it mean?

Thanks

 

[Ron Olson]

What they must be talking about is the center bore of the prop. With a 16 turn motor you shouldn't need a larger drive than the stock 1/8" bore. A 3/16" is bigger than you need for that motor. Besides, it is probably harder to find a collet that large for an electric motor.

 

[Kris Flynn]

ok thnaks Ron,

would you happen to know why that the prop would need to be bored out??? would one reason be so it can fit the shaft, or the stub? because my shaft is 4mm and i think its a bit smaller than the normally are??

i dont know what they all mean im a little confused

 

[Kris Flynn]

The other thing i had to ask was, what is the difference with a say X440 3 blade prop to a X440 2plade prop? does it really make any difference, because the pitch and everything is still the same

 

[Ron Olson]

If you are using the Kyosho outboard, most of the prop shafts are metric but I'm one of those Americans that still hasn't gotten used to the metric system. On a lot of the Kyosho motors, all you need to adapt an Octura prop to it is a small piece of brass tube that will fit inside of the prop and short enough so that it doesn't go to the drive dog (about 3/8" long). That is with the props with the 3/16" bore. If it is still too loose add another piece of tubing over the first.

 

[Kris Flynn]

I see what it all means now, thanks for all of the the help Ron

But my other question still stands, what is the difference between a 2 blade and 3 blade prop of the same size and pitch??

Regards

Kris