Pistolero questions

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crashnburn

Member
Joined
Jan 9, 2006
Messages
18
Let me start by saying I'm new to the world of boats. I have just bought a Pistolero 40 with an OS 46 VXM, with a 65 quiet pipe. Came with a X452/3 and a X457/3 prop. Does anyone have any tips, suggestions or ideas on this hull? What would be a good setup or place to start? Books or manuals even? There are no clubs near me so I'm on my own right now trying to figure this out. I might be asking for alot but any help would be appreciated.
 
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I had better luck using a X-447 3 blade prop and a modified 450 2 blade that was slightly cut down. The X-452 you have may work but no way will the 457, that's more for a .65-.67 size engine.

Make sure to keep the cable well greased, the radio box sealed really well so no water gets in. The Pistelro will get water in the hull during turns so it can get into the radio box if it's not sealed well enough w/water proof radio box tape.
 
Can you give us a little more info on what the boat is doing in the turns to take on water? IE Rocking up on its side? Plowing the nose?

Scott
 
way to much prop try an octura x450 2 or 3 blade an auto bailer would be a good idea if you cant find the leak run the pipe from the exhaust flange to the high poit of the pipe at 9 5/8 inches.
 
Can you give us a little more info on what the boat is doing in the turns to take on water? IE Rocking up on its side? Plowing the nose?

Scott
Actually Scott, I was just replying to rcboats2 comment about Pistoleros taking on water during turns...I have'nt run the boat yet. I'm trying to get some idea on what to expect from this hull when that day does come....hopefully soon.

4-EST Performance, I will try the x450 3 blade. I'm not clear on what you are saying about the high point of the pipe being 9 5/8". Are you refering to pipe length starting at the welded flange at the manifold and ending at the widest part of the pipe?

What type of cable grease is recomended? Something in the way of high pressure wheel bearing grease or Prathers cable grease or????

(I'm so new to this, it's embarrasing) :unsure:
 
Can you give us a little more info on what the boat is doing in the turns to take on water? IE Rocking up on its side? Plowing the nose?

Scott
Actually Scott, I was just replying to rcboats2 comment about Pistoleros taking on water during turns...I have'nt run the boat yet. I'm trying to get some idea on what to expect from this hull when that day does come....hopefully soon.

4-EST Performance, I will try the x450 3 blade. I'm not clear on what you are saying about the high point of the pipe being 9 5/8". Are you refering to pipe length starting at the welded flange at the manifold and ending at the widest part of the pipe?

What type of cable grease is recomended? Something in the way of high pressure wheel bearing grease or Prathers cable grease or????

that is correct on the pipe . use mercury 24c on the prop shaft

(I'm so new to this, it's embarrasing) :unsure:
 
Let me start by saying I'm new to the world of boats. I have just bought a Pistolero 40 with an OS 46 VXM, with a 65 quiet pipe. Came with a X452/3 and a X457/3 prop. Does anyone have any tips, suggestions or ideas on this hull? What would be a good setup or place to start? Books or manuals even? There are no clubs near me so I'm on my own right now trying to figure this out. I might be asking for alot but any help would be appreciated.
The Pistolero was originally built by Dorrian Thompson of Bandit Boats in Sidney BC Canada. He is probably better known for his tunnel hulls which carried the name Killer. A google revealed their last email address to be [email protected]

There was one hull in the local club. It ran rather flat but if you run it really loose and flopping around, it will keep up.
 
I'm surprized to hear that it runs 'flat'. Reason I say this is that Bandit appeared to have made the Pistolero out of at least 2 different materials. One was fiberglas, the other kevlar (the version I have). I'm not sure if there was an ABS version. Anyways, I figured if a manufacturer went to all this trouble of making these versions, that the hull should have been somewhat successful. Then again Ford made lots of versions of the Edsel... :rolleyes:
 
Back in "97" at the NAMBA nats, A buddy and myself purchased 3 of them, a .21 that was @32", A .45 at @ 41", and a .67 hull at @ 46"

I ran the 46" as a gas hull for a while with mixed results. Was fast as hell, cornered very well ... So long as water was very smooth :blink: Rough it up and you had a high speed submarine.

All 3 were 100% kevlar lap up done in the shoe box style. Very flat bottoms and GREAT quality layup.

:rolleyes: Still have .21 hull that never was built.

** A .45 should run @ Octura X450/3 or x452/3 .. a .67 @ X457/3 or X460/3
 
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Scott; What caused it to be a 'high speed submarine'? Is it due to the shallow hull depth, that it takes on water during turns as RCBOATS2 described earlier?

From what I'm understanding so far, perhaps an auto-bailer maybe a requirement....

The water is too cold and the boat too new for having to do a salvage operation because it sank :(
 
I believe Scott S is refering to a Dunk, where the boat gets loose & plants it's nose in the water, which makes it disappear momentarily unless you are running in a shallow pond. In this case it can stick in the bottom.

In reference to it sinking, you need to install some flotation in the boat so it will return to the surface. Most Mono people use pool noodles that the kids play with in swimming pools. Usually have to split them in half & run them up the sides inside the hull.
 
:huh: High speed submarine :huh:

The pistoleros had very little deadrise built into them. While the hull has a steep deep vee, the free board is minimal & bow very low to water. Like twincrafts <_< Hulls bow will rise and fall like someone on a diving board at speed. If bow is up and hull go's over another boats wake, the transom is poped up forcing the bow down fast, in most cases causing a total submersion :angry:

I never had water issues with cornering, the shoe box overlap of deck makes a built in splash rail. So i can't relate to that issue :huh:

Regards.

Scott
 
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I guess there is no cure for the submarining effect, ie; trim tabs? I can see what little freeboard on these boats can cause some problems.....

The previous owner also informed me that the boat turns right without problems, but left turns are wide. There is a turn fin on the right transom and the rudder is also on the right side of the prop.

Note the pic.....any thoughts? (BTW, everyones input here has been great! Thanks!!)

Pistolero2.jpg
 
I guess there is no cure for the submarining effect, ie; trim tabs? I can see what little freeboard on these boats can cause some problems.....

The previous owner also informed me that the boat turns right without problems, but left turns are wide. There is a turn fin on the right transom and the rudder is also on the right side of the prop.

Note the pic.....any thoughts? (BTW, everyones input here has been great! Thanks!!)
I had FULL tabs on mine & they helped torque roll and made how hard hull set into corners easy to adjust.

While a FAST hull, it just did not play well with others :lol:

Hardware looks fine.... just add a left side turn fin & lefts will be better, But NEVER great.
 
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Hardware looks fine.... just add a starboard side turn fin & lefts will be better, But NEVER great.

You did mean to say "add a port side turn fin & the lefts will be better".
 
Does anyone happen to know whose make the turn fin on the starboard side might be? I'd prefer to have a matched set, instead of having to fill holes and redrill....
 
Does anyone happen to know whose make the turn fin on the starboard side might be? I'd prefer to have a matched set, instead of having to fill holes and redrill....
So much of mariner talk ... left side turn fin :rolleyes:

I fabricate ALL my own turn fins from 7075 T-6 sheet ... or 6061- T651, .063" to .093" pending on fins size
 
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