Newbie liner question

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Scott Buck

Active Member
Joined
Mar 14, 2021
Messages
41
Hey guys I have a green horn question for some of you more experienced and senior boaters. I got this hydroplane and it has a brass liner , well I ordered new flex shafts and marine geese but I did not think to order the brass liner or Teflon liner. My question is what’s the difference in longevity, does the brass last longer then the Teflon?
also the brass one is only two or three inches, are they suppose to run the whole length of the big brass tube or just acouple inches at the end? And why would you need one at the end but not the other end up at the engine side?
And I’m assuming you should grease both the flex shaft as well as the liner , or is the liner suppose to be stationary?
Any help out there guys and what’s the suggestions for ordering them, it’s a .187 flex and I’m not going to be racing, just Sunday funday boat cruising with the kids, brass or Teflon?
 

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If the brass for the shaft looks fine and no bends or knicks in it. Leave it alone. No one that I know of runs a Teflon brass in there Sport 40’s and there’s a lot of them in our area. You’ll be fine. Just make sure you use a shaft bushing at the end and check the wobble to make sure it’s not wore out. You’ll be fine. Make sure you lube the shaft with whatever you use marine grease or a oiler. Nice looking boat for sure. I usually grease mine once for a race day. So about every 3-4 races.
 
Ya I ordered all new linkages,rudders,tubes, all kinds of new stuff for the ol girl! And thank you ya I really love this paint scheme, it’s gorgeous out in the sun with the sparkle/glitter in the green paint!
Also ya i guess I was confused, my boat has a brass bushing and I was calling it a brass liner.
Ya the bushing is about1-1/2 to about 2”.
min curious why you would only run one bushing at the end and not one up by the engine side?
also is that bushing suppose to be stationary and just the flexshaft rotates? So no grease on the outside of the bushing, just on the shaft?
 
The bushing rotates freely. Leaving on the shaft when greasing the shaft and rub it into the holes in the bushing. As the engine rotates the line/grease is pushed towards the prop And will lube the bushing as well. Like a Auger effect.
the prop bushing holds the shaft true while rotating the prop. The engine spins true and therefor the shaft doesn’t need more support. That’s why no bushing on the other end.
 
Want Danny said. Just don’t butt the bushing up all the way against your strut. Leave a little bit of space like 1/16.
 
I’m up in the Bangor Maine area, I’ve found a few guys down in southern maine that race but nobody up here. Which kind of stinks because I want to learn how to sharpen and balance props. I’m sure I could figure it out by watching YouTube but I’d rather have a person with mutual interest teach me.
and ya thanks for the advice guys,that bushing holds the flex shaft to spin at dead center, it makes sense. I just wasn’t sure if the bushing was suppose to freely spin or not but it all makes sense now!
Now on to Probably the biggest learning curve , finding the proper size prop and pitch. My U-6 came with a nice prop but it was used with a Picco 45 and now has a Picco 65 with a new carb and tuned pipe. I guess I’ll just try this smaller prop and test run it.
I also just bought my first electric boat which is a tfl cheeta single drive with a 220 amp esc. I’m curious if I could do the calculations for my electric boat and see if it’s anywhere close to the same size prop for my Picco 65.
So one other quick question, I know electric boats have calculations to figure out prop size but what do you nitro and gas boaters do? Trial and error?
 
So your putting a .67 in there. I would try a 57MM.

Usually 67 motors run a 1/4” Shaft then you get one stepped down to 3/16”.

I would keep the 45 in there. Might be a lot more fun. But that’s your decision. There plenty of guys in Canada that run but with the border closed it’s gonna be tough.
 
Well see when I bought it the 45 was blown up and the 65 runs good , so I’ve been on the hunt for new bearings,piston sleeve,piston and crank for the 45. I’m going to experiment with it this summer and maybe switch them up.
Do you know the average prop size for a .65 engine or does it all depend on boat size as well?
 
I’m up in the Bangor Maine area, I’ve found a few guys down in southern maine that race but nobody up here. Which kind of stinks because I want to learn how to sharpen and balance props. I’m sure I could figure it out by watching YouTube but I’d rather have a person with mutual interest teach me.
and ya thanks for the advice guys,that bushing holds the flex shaft to spin at dead center, it makes sense. I just wasn’t sure if the bushing was suppose to freely spin or not but it all makes sense now!
Now on to Probably the biggest learning curve , finding the proper size prop and pitch. My U-6 came with a nice prop but it was used with a Picco 45 and now has a Picco 65 with a new carb and tuned pipe. I guess I’ll just try this smaller prop and test run it.
I also just bought my first electric boat which is a tfl cheeta single drive with a 220 amp esc. I’m curious if I could do the calculations for my electric boat and see if it’s anywhere close to the same size prop for my Picco 65.
So one other quick question, I know electric boats have calculations to figure out prop size but what do you nitro and gas boaters do? Trial and error?
hey Scott! Well I’m in Cornwall Ontario Canada... trying to get some guys here also.. have a few along with it’s the wife!! Maybe once this covid stuff subsides we can meet up!!
 

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