Driveline help

[GraysonTaylor]

I'm working on a 1/8 scale '91 Miss Madison ML Kit. I was looking at my Speedmaster strut upside down in the boat to see where I needed to reinforce the bottom and got to thinking, this ain't going to work. The Speedmaster setup wants the stuffing tube to go all the way through the strut. Since the strut also needs to go through the bottom of the hull, I don't see how I could ever assemble that without gluing in the stuffing tube after the strut is bolted into place. Doesn't sound right to me.

The other option is the stub shaft, feral and then flex shaft. I did one of those many years ago and dug of the boat to see what I did. I can't believe I did that, in a bad way... I have about four inches of Teflon tube between the feral and the brass stuffing tube. It worked, but that was pure luck and the boat was never raced. So, I could get the brass stuffing tube say 1/16" from the feral. That's not going to hold grease well.

Well, I could use some help.

 

[P THOMAS]

It will work ok, there enough space from the tube exit to the strut to pull the strut blade out of the bottom. you may have to make the slot a bit longer than the strut.

 

[Mike Cathey]

Sent you a PM

 

[GraysonTaylor]

It will work ok, there enough space from the tube exit to the strut to pull the strut blade out of the bottom. you may have to make the slot a bit longer than the strut.

So if I round the top corners of the strut and go with a long slot, I should be able to stretch it. That's a tight stretch. Then agian, I've never tried.

So how do I seal the slot? Throw a piece of tape on it?

 

[Ray Sametz]

Once I found the sweet spot for the strut, I sealed it from the inside with some clear silicone.

 

[Samuel Hagan JR]

Grayson. It works fine. It’s how 99 percent of scale boats are set up.
You glue the stuffing tube to the hull with Epoxy and fiberglass. Then you slide the shaft tube through the strut into the stuffing tube. I alway wet sand the brass to get it to slide better through everything. It can be a really tight fit. Depending on how much of a bend you got leave the strut loose so it can move.
You’ll be okay. Don’t over complicate it and keep it simple. I’ve rarely seen anyone use the Ferals. Maybe a handful. But you do want you think is easier for you.

 

[Samuel Hagan JR]

This might help

 

[GraysonTaylor]

Hey, Mr. Meyers, this could be a good video. Yes, I've seen the stuffing box stuffing tube, but I'm stuck on the back end.

 

[GraysonTaylor]

View attachment 278987
This might help

That's a rear mounted strut. 1/8 requires a though hull mounted strut. Thank you for showing the difference.

 

[brad nichols]

Use the next size of tubing as the log you glue into the hull and have drive line tube slide through it so it can be removed.

Brad

 

[Bert Dygert]

Grayson,

Here is a picture of what Brad said above. I use the next size bigger tube and glue that in the hull. Then you add a clamp to keep the two tubes from sliding around or rotating. You can put a slot cut in the glued in stuffing box tube to help secure the two together when clamped. When you need to remove the tube or adjust the strut angle loosen the clamp make the adjustment and re-tighten. To remove slide the tube forward in the engine bay remove the strut then pull the stuff box tube out.

Hope this helps.

 

[Samuel Hagan JR]

I sent him a picture of mine and he still didn’t get it. Only looked at strut. Makes no difference where the strut is located. The shaft tube still goes through the strut.

 

[GraysonTaylor]

Thanks Sam. The question was if I have the stuffing tube in place how am I going to get the strut through the hull and the stuffing tube through it? Phil said there should be enough flex in the stuffing tube to get the strut though the hull after you slide it over the stuffing tube. Sorry for the confusion.

 

[scottmeyers]

Grayson,
If you've set it up as I describe in my video you would have two brass tubes. One is a short piece that is permanently epoxied into the hull, and the other is a longer piece that will slip-fit into the shorter one. Correct so far?
Now when you are ready for final assembly you will slip the long one into the short one from the rear, but slide it 1/2" or more further forward than it's final position. You'll probably have to do this with the motor removed so that it can slide forward enough.
Next install and tighten the strut into place, and then slide the long brass tube rearward and into the strut.
Make sense?

 

[scottmeyers]

I don't check these forums very often, so if you get stuck on something and need help quickly please reach out to me via Facebook messenger either by finding me by name or thorough my page @ M5 Performance Hydroplanes. I'm happy to help when I can!

 

[GraysonTaylor]

That makes sense. I appreciate the assistance.