New Engine

[Chris Wood]

one thing to keep in mind there is a different taps for chasing threads than a regular die

if you use a regular tap to clean threads they accually make the threads sloppier than the taps that are used for that purpose

chris

 

[glenng]

one thing to keep in mind there is a different taps for chasing threads than a regular die

if you use a regular tap to clean threads they accually make the threads sloppier than the taps that are used for that purpose

chris

Chris is correct, There are thread "chasers" and thread "dies" also different grades(fits) of taps(GH1,GH2, GH3). Personally I use a hand held S.S. wire brush to clean screws and leave the holes alone. For the last couple years I've been using the Permatex blue loctite Gel-seems to work fine. On head bolts that are exosed to water I've been using the Tef-Gel that Rick Bellenger was kind enough to send me(Thanks Rick).

Glenn

 

[Hydro Junkie]

I tend to agree with the blue Loctite as insurance. After having a case bolt that I thought was tight back out and trash a flywheel years ago, I won't put an engine back together without it on the case bolts. As for the head bolts, I won't put it on them since they will be pulled much more often than the case bolts will. Blue Loctite is also a must on all set screws to prvent them from being stolen by gremlins at the worst possible time-on the way to the water while running

 

[Neil LaGarry]

Don't forget to wash out a new quiet pipe .I use old nitro fuel as a wash.

 

[jetpack]

Loc-tite has their own remover. Methylene chloride, the major active ingredient in Chisel #79040, is available for retail purchase at automotive supply, painting, and home center stores. It's a nasty solvent chemical, so be careful using it.

About new engines...along with all other comments, if the loose carburizing hasn't been cleaned from the factory hardening of the crankshaft...remove it. Loose carbon from hardening process can break loose into the bearings or other. Check with a Q-tip. If you wipe any unmachined surface of the crank and you see signs of contamination, it's scrubby time.

If the crank is fully machined or ground there shouldn't be any worry.

 

[Joe Warren]

Disassemble the engine & clean the case, especially if the intake hsg bolts are drilled thru to the case opening. This is where about 90 percent of the junk comes from... Locite everything but the head bolts & Invest in a Torque wrench & a set of bits to fit the screws properly.

 

[nitro freak]

I use a dee el tool with a wire wheel attachment.

Clean the dried locktite off quickly.

Just hold the bolt head with pliers or put in a vice.

 

[julianconde]

Perfect example got my 2 CMB 80 motors for my twin cleaned them. Did everything mentioned I torqued the screws with no loctite everything was good. In the 2011 Orlando winternats twin shootout right before we went on the clock the right engine carbuator barrel came loose if you use Steve woods mod carbs you know what I'm talking about. I pleaded for mercy minutes while 6 other people worked on taking the engine out finding the piece missing and putting it back then putting everything back together. we went on the clock and I won the shootout.

I will always use loctite on everything except head bolts I learned from that race and that wont happen again. No matter if you torque them right something will eventually come loose when you least expect it.

Julian

 

[Duck899]

Perfect example got my 2 CMB 80 motors for my twin cleaned them. Did everything mentioned I torqued the screws with no loctite everything was good. In the 2011 Orlando winternats twin shootout right before we went on the clock the right engine carbuator barrel came loose if you use Steve woods mod carbs you know what I'm talking about. I pleaded for mercy minutes while 6 other people worked on taking the engine out finding the piece missing and putting it back then putting everything back together. we went on the clock and I won the shootout.

I will always use loctite on everything except head bolts I learned from that race and that wont happen again. No matter if you torque them right something will eventually come loose when you least expect it.

Julian

"Like"

 

[Danny King]

Seen a few flywheels cut up by backed out screws on older piccos.

 

[Tom Foley]

Watched a carb fall off a VAC 91 while it was frantically being started in the pits at Brandon with the other engine screaming for mercy at a zillion RPM because of lack of thread locker of some kind (not mine ). Honda makes a thread locker called " 2 HT " it is stronger than Blue and less aggressive than Red Loctite . I use it on most things , great stuff .

 

[Kez]

Seen a few flywheels cut up by backed out screws on older piccos.

Yes I have experienced it first hand. Unfortunately the damage was not limited to the flywheel. The front housing got loose and chaffed against the case. It mangled the threads and the aluminum dust got sucked into the engine and ruined just about everything.

I have since used lock tite on the case bolts except for the head bolts.

 

[Joe Warren]

242 loctite is a Must on all case & carb bolts and properly torque them . p.s CA works too if your at the lake & dont have do not have loctite.