** New 45 Eagle SAW Boat ** 94.0 mph **

Intlwaters

Help Support Intlwaters:

This site may earn a commission from merchant affiliate links, including eBay, Amazon, and others.

Philmunsterman

Well-Known Member
Joined
Aug 1, 2009
Messages
469
Guys, I had to buy several boats in a package deal to get this one, but it's what I have been looking for a 45 built for SAW with a CMB 91. The Boat and Motor are all New never fired . I'm going to try and get it ready to take to the Lake next weekend. What would be a good way to measure and set the Pipe for the first few runs. I'll probably start with a 1667. Thanks Phil

NewSAW45.jpg


91hr.jpg
 
Last edited by a moderator:
Look good. Will you drive good fastest if mistake little turn so will tub tear off half way . I dont know about hardly say on measure for AB CNC pipe but Contact to Andy Brown he will help you to set up Good Luck! ;)
 
Last edited by a moderator:
Phil to start testing keep 11" from the glowplug to the first maximum diameter of the divergent cone..I would also try the .45 turnfin to see how the boat perfoms at full throthe before run with no fin.

Gill

www.grsboats.com.br
 
Looks good, I would try to get the needle closer to the carb when you get a chance. Try a 2170 jacked way up, you can angle the strut to help it go straight.

Ditto on the fin.
 
looks like you may have a crimp in the fuel line under the needle valve. "Theoretically", it should not matter if needle valve is a few inches away from the carb,. but I know some people have had issues. Use a thick walled fuel line and it may help.
 
Last edited by a moderator:
I would also be very cautious about running the stock tub without reinforcement. I made this mistake with my first SAW rigger, a similar 67SG with a 91HR and a flip at 85+ broke the tub almost in half. My current SAW riggers all have carbon reiforcement and have survived multiple 110+ crashes. In particular, the Eagles tend to break right at the engine tub and front radio box bulkhead.

Tyler
 
looks like you may have a crimp in the fuel line under the needle valve. "Theoretically", it should not matter if needle valve is a few inches away from the carb,. but I know some people have had issues. Use a thick walled fuel line and it may help.
I think the picture makes it looked crimped, But I am changing the fuel line. Thanks Phil
 
Phil,

Here is a picsof the SG67 after the break and the repair and then the others are of my X hydro tub with carbon reinforcement. Carbon work is not up to TK's standards by any stretch, but it's plenty strong. The last pic is of a FE SAW electric rigger with similar carbon reinforcement.

Tyler

DSCN3941.JPG

DSCN8511.JPG

DSCN9325.JPG

DSC_2319_resize.JPG
 
I did have a chance to run the Boat yesterday. Some good and some bad news. The break-in of the motor went fine, boat ran and drove great. I did learn a good lesson, I had to lengthen the pipe a little and the coupler blew causing the pipe to fly back and rip off the radio box cover. Pipe, mount and cover at the bottom of the Lake. Note to self: make a stronger pipe mount !
 
Last edited by a moderator:
Another question. The needle has been cut off but the Screw kept backing out. When I seat the screw all the way in it sticks out, should I just back it out till it's flush and locktite it ??

carbscrew.jpg
 
you need to remove the hex flats first,then locktite the needle in,then dremel off the inside.if you don't remove the hex,you won't be able to remove/replace the throttle arm without trying to take out the locktited needle
 
Well I was at the Lake today with the Eagle ready to go ( thanks to Will G for sending me a few pipes to test ) and there was to much wind ! It was hard but I used my better judgement and didn't run the Boat. I ran my Sprint Cat and talked with friends. Maybe next weekend we will have some smooth water. Phil

Sawnewpipe.jpg
 
Last edited by a moderator:
Back
Top