needing advice on first time paint job

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James Schmidt

Well-Known Member
Joined
Jun 18, 2013
Messages
437
I am building a Blazer marine sport 20 kit. the boat is wood. what are the steps from start ( Bare Wood) to finish. what is mass epoxy? what is it for? will base coat clear coat auto paint stand up to 60% nitro, or should I use Klass Kote. this is my first time painting an rc boat since all my other boats are Fiberglass.

Thanks

Jim
 
Everybody has there own way of doing it .I like to use West system to do the finish. Mas is great also. I have used both.At least 2 coats of epoxy and then clear with 2 part urethane clear and you are good..
 
OK, Sounds good. I plan on painting the hull, and not having any wood grain showing through finish. I've seen some threads in here talking about primer. dose the epoxy resin take place or primer. is 206 hardener from west? Who sells 206 hardener? is the epoxy resin a base coat that I can paint over? is the 2 part urethane from west as well?
 
Okay, I see where you are confused with the hardeners so I'll see if I can clear things up for you:

105: This is West Systems base resin. Everything else is mixed with this

205: West Systems fastest setting hardener, used when working time isn't an issue or in cool areas.

206: West Systems medium set hardener, used when a bit of working time is needed and in warmer conditions

207: West Systems hardener formulated for coating and fiberglassing. While it works for bonding, it's not as good as the others

209: West Systems slow set hardener, used in warmest conditions or when additional working time is needed

400 series are additives that are mixed with the resin and whichever hardener being used. They are used for added strength, thickening and to use the epoxy as a filler.
 
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epoxy will not take the place of primer. Primer is required to give the paint some tooth to hold onto. Follow the manufacturers recommendations on sanding between prime and base coats ad between epoxy and primer coats. primer canl also act as a filler for the small lines holes depending in the primer you choose. prime then sand , prime again and sand.
 
After you epoxy the boat, block sand it 320 grit than prim to with a high build urethane primer, block that with 400 grit, where's a trick wipe it down with a prep saw or wax remover this will make the primer shiny, you'll see any defects or scratches. The cleaner will dry,prime again wet sand, block 500 grit, check again with solvent for defects, automotive base coat / clear coat paint is fine with nitro-gas, buy good quality ,cheep paint sucks
 
a note on sealing with epoxy prior to paint. use a finishing epoxy, it's generally thinner than bonding epoxy. apply a coat, let it soak in then scrape as much off as you can with an old credit card (or similar). apply second coat, scrape again. when cured, take a straight edge razor blade & scrape the entire boat holding the blade 90* to the hull. this will eliminate A LOT of sanding, & excess epoxy build up.
 
We use sealer than base coat/clear coat Matrix auto paint. We also clear right over the wood becasue we like the wood finish. 320 sand before painting. You can spray the sealer and paint after 30 minutes. Also make sure all painting is done within 24 hours for proper linking process.

Dave
 
Many Many thanks every one. once you know the products, and methods, then its just time and work. you all been a big help like always.

thanks Jim
 
Okay, I see where you are confused with the hardeners so I'll see if I can clear things up for you:

105: This is West Systems base resin. Everything else is mixed with this

205: West Systems fastest setting hardener, used when working time isn't an issue or in cool areas.

206: West Systems medium set hardener, used when a bit of working time is needed and in warmer conditions

207: West Systems hardener formulated for coating and fiberglassing. While it works for bonding, it's not as good as the others

209: West Systems slow set hardener, used in warmest conditions or when additional working time is needed

400 series are additives that are mixed with the resin and whichever hardener being used. They are used for added strength, thickening and to use the epoxy as a filler.
thanks for this detailed info.
Just curious, does West Systems "finishing" type epoxy hardener blend contain wax? I know historically finishing epoxies, or resins, contain forms of wax to provide better "sand-ability".

For example, that popular brand, Petit, (2hr) HobbyPoxy product supposedly contained wax which made it very nice for finishing, as it sanded very well. While a "laminating" type epoxy resin/hardener would contain no wax, also very difficult to sand (sandpaper would become "gummed-up").
 
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I use cabinet scrapers from Lee Valley to scrape between coats of finish epoxy and before sanding for primer. Works really well.

Rick
 
For the finish with Epoxy I use the 105,207 207 is a finishing epoxy and sands real easy.

As far as clear coat I use PPG 2021 clear good for 60% nitro.

Dave
 
Okay, I see where you are confused with the hardeners so I'll see if I can clear things up for you:

105: This is West Systems base resin. Everything else is mixed with this

205: West Systems fastest setting hardener, used when working time isn't an issue or in cool areas.

206: West Systems medium set hardener, used when a bit of working time is needed and in warmer conditions

207: West Systems hardener formulated for coating and fiberglassing. While it works for bonding, it's not as good as the others

209: West Systems slow set hardener, used in warmest conditions or when additional working time is needed

400 series are additives that are mixed with the resin and whichever hardener being used. They are used for added strength, thickening and to use the epoxy as a filler.
Are folks here using denatured alcohol to thin the epoxy/hardener blend to provide more optimal penetration into the wood grain, especially first sealing coat?
 
If you're using West Systems, it says right on their website not to. That being said, everyone has their own way of doing things so.....
 
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