My 45" mono build

[EATMYWAKE]

Hi,

I have a 45 inch v-hull boat. I have no idea what company made it. I was working with my dad at a job at someones house and the owner said he built it and didn’t like boats. So he said we could have it. It was in a closet standing on its nose leaning on a wall. Anyways. I’ve finaly decided to put it together and run it. I got a O.S. 81 VR-M engine ( which I think is now discontinued) props and a pipe and a flywheel.

First off, I was wondering if I could cut the stuffing tube out of the bottom and put one out the back like most of the modern boats that are out these days?

I would like an adjustable strut too if someone could recomend me one.

Since most of my work right now is going to be focused on prepping the hull for the hardware I plan on putting in, what should I do to take the 2 fuel tanks out that are siliconed into the hull? And the for the radio box, I was just planning on cutting it out with a dremmel?

here's some pics of what im working with, feel free to ask if you'd like to see more pics.

thanks in advance for any help i get

 

[Ted buckley]

You don't need to use a dremel to get those tanks or radio box out. They will pry-up with a screw-driver. The silicone has probably been in there for a long time. The flex tube will come out after the radio box.. Use a little blow torch and heat the inside only. Then twist the tube and it will slide out from the inside.. No sense in damaging the outside of the hull to do this. Then you can use Bondo & Epoxy resin for your repairs.. The boat looks good and is repairable.

 

[Ted buckley]

You don't need to use a dremel to get those tanks or radio box out. They will pry-up with a screw-driver. The silicone has probably been in there for a long time. The flex tube will come out after the radio box.. Use a little blow torch and heat the inside only. Then twist the tube and it will slide out from the inside.. No sense in damaging the outside of the hull to do this. Then you can use Bondo & Epoxy resin for your repairs.. The boat looks good and is repairable.

Note** when using the little blow torch - heat the epoxy that's holding the tube(Only) taking care not to burn the surrounding areas and starting the boat on fire.

 

[EATMYWAKE]

Update

http://traxxas.com/gallery/marine/5708spartan/Spartan-5708-Stainless-Steel-Trim-Tabs-Turn-Fins can i run a setup similar to this, with the prop coming out the back of the boat at the bottom of the V part of the hull? how do i figure out where to drill the holes, can i have a parts list too?

thanks

 

[Kez]

Update

http://traxxas.com/gallery/marine/5708spartan/Spartan-5708-Stainless-Steel-Trim-Tabs-Turn-Fins can i run a setup similar to this, with the prop coming out the back of the boat at the bottom of the V part of the hull? how do i figure out where to drill the holes, can i have a parts list too?

thanks

It looks like the Dumas 60 size competitiion deep vee. I never knew they made a metal flake deck. It looks to be in good shape. I have built all three sizes. The deck tends to warp and sag but yours appeared to be having the correct crown.

Suggestions: I would replace the Marine Specialties mount with a 5" Octura mount. This will lower the engine (CG) for better handling. You will find that the existing fuel tanks location will flood the engine easily when the boat is sitting on a stand. I put mine in front of the engine. You will need to build a fuel cell in the bulkhead to house the tank.

I never tried surface drive on these. When Dumas first released these vees, they actually set it up for submerged articulated drive with hard shaft. They later used sub-surface outdrive with the prop at 1/2" below the vee. You can try surface drive and I guess the hull will be running more wet compared to sub-surface drive. You can use the Octura strudder that you have on the transom. You just need to buy a strut and a rudder.

These hull do not handle very well as they bank excessively in the turn. I still like them because of the scale look.

Good luck and have fun.

 

[EATMYWAKE]

Nice to see someone knows some of the parts on here. I was guessing it was a Dumas kit or sumthing. What drive would you recommend? I want something adjustable. And on the inside the guy had a 3rd fuel cell infront of the engine. The whole front end of the hull is solid foam, Is this how it comes from the factory? What websites should I look at for parts and running hardware. And to improve my handling my best bet would be to keep as much weight in the bottom of the v?

This hull is a 45 with out the rudder, maby 50 with it...

 

[Ted buckley]

Nice to see someone knows some of the parts on here. I was guessing it was a Dumas kit or sumthing. What drive would you recommend? I want something adjustable. And on the inside the guy had a 3rd fuel cell infront of the engine. The whole front end of the hull is solid foam, Is this how it comes from the factory? What websites should I look at for parts and running hardware. And to improve my handling my best bet would be to keep as much weight in the bottom of the v?

This hull is a 45 with out the rudder, maby 50 with it...

I think Kez is correct.. Personally, if this were my hull, I wouldn't try converting it to a Surface drive and just keep it as a sub-surface. With this type of hull and the leaning it's going to do in the corners - your gonna need the prop lower in the water. This type of hull is better suited for sub-surface application. There are many sites on the web for Hardware(Marine Specialties/Octura/Speedmaster) just to name a few. Here is a link to a site that I have purchased parts from:

http://www.offshoreelectrics.com/products.php?cat=Rudders%2C+Struts%2C+Brackets+%26+More

 

[seaducerpete]

You might check out speedmaster hardware not shure of the websitte do a google search

 

[EATMYWAKE]

can someone post pics of a sub surface drive set-up on a v-hull? what strut do i need?

thanks for all the input so far

 

[NAMBA860]

that is defenitly a dumas hull. iwould keep it as a subsurface drive get rid of that rudder and get a hold of dave ripey at hyperformance products he has all the old hardware parther use to make for their sub surface boats,shane

 

[Kez]

So the whole front of the hull has been filled with foam...That explained why the deck has not sagged! If anything, it has more crown to the deck than stock. Probably from the pressure of the expanding foam.

You definitely need to move the tanks or you will have a lot of frustration finding the needle. The carb of your OS 81VRM will be much lower than the fuel level with the boat sitting in its stand. You will flood the engine easily when you try to start it. However, as the boat pitches up when it is running, the fuel level will become low due to the aft location. It will be a challange to tune a boat with the fuel level constantly changing. I suggest you make a fuel cell out of ply or mold one from fiberglass and install it in front of the engine. You may need to dig out some of the foam to install the fuel tank.

You may also want to check the foam to make sure it has not soaked up fuel and water. That would make it heavy.

The boat came as a kit. The builder has to joint the deck to the hull. I don't think the boat came from Dumas with the foam. However, your boat appeared to have a metal flake gel coat finish so it might be a special production run?

The exisiting Marine Specialty mount (I think it is their quick switch mount) has the engine shaft CL above the mounting holes. I would replace it with a Prather or Octura 5" mount. You will need to drill new holes in the rails and plug up the old holes. Dumas recommends mounting the engine with the carb even with the deck opening. This location has worked well for me. You may need to remove the old stuffing tube if it does not line up with the engine. One easy way I have found to remove old stuffing tube is to stick a 30W soldering iron into the tube. As soon as the tube heats up and the glass starts to soften, twist the tube out with work gloves.

A sub surface drive is like what you currently have in your boat. The stuffing tube exits the bottom of the hull and runs out past the transom. The prop shaft is usually 1/4" to 1/2" from the bottom of the vee. At speed, part of the prop is under the water hence the name sub surface. If you need a photo, PM me and I will try to send you an example of sub-surface drive set up.

You have lots of good suggestions on hardware in the replies. If money is an issue, it may be more cost effective to just buy a Octura strut since you already have the bracket and rudder.

I hope some of what I type will be somewhat useful. Good luck with your project and don't forget to post some photos.

 

[EATMYWAKE]

So the whole front of the hull has been filled with foam...That explained why the deck has not sagged! If anything, it has more crown to the deck than stock. Probably from the pressure of the expanding foam.

You definitely need to move the tanks or you will have a lot of frustration finding the needle. The carb of your OS 81VRM will be much lower than the fuel level with the boat sitting in its stand. You will flood the engine easily when you try to start it. However, as the boat pitches up when it is running, the fuel level will become low due to the aft location. It will be a challange to tune a boat with the fuel level constantly changing. I suggest you make a fuel cell out of ply or mold one from fiberglass and install it in front of the engine. You may need to dig out some of the foam to install the fuel tank.

You may also want to check the foam to make sure it has not soaked up fuel and water. That would make it heavy.

The boat came as a kit. The builder has to joint the deck to the hull. I don't think the boat came from Dumas with the foam. However, your boat appeared to have a metal flake gel coat finish so it might be a special production run?

The exisiting Marine Specialty mount (I think it is their quick switch mount) has the engine shaft CL above the mounting holes. I would replace it with a Prather or Octura 5" mount. You will need to drill new holes in the rails and plug up the old holes. Dumas recommends mounting the engine with the carb even with the deck opening. This location has worked well for me. You may need to remove the old stuffing tube if it does not line up with the engine. One easy way I have found to remove old stuffing tube is to stick a 30W soldering iron into the tube. As soon as the tube heats up and the glass starts to soften, twist the tube out with work gloves.

A sub surface drive is like what you currently have in your boat. The stuffing tube exits the bottom of the hull and runs out past the transom. The prop shaft is usually 1/4" to 1/2" from the bottom of the vee. At speed, part of the prop is under the water hence the name sub surface. If you need a photo, PM me and I will try to send you an example of sub-surface drive set up.

You have lots of good suggestions on hardware in the replies. If money is an issue, it may be more cost effective to just buy a Octura strut since you already have the bracket and rudder.

I hope some of what I type will be somewhat useful. Good luck with your project and don't forget to post some photos.

i have taken the radio box and all 3 fuel tanks out. what you just wrote pretty much sums up the other posts above. thanks for that. i knew what a sub-surface drive was, i just wanted to see what other boats were running. and as long as the strut is big enough for the flex shaft, it should be fine correct? and what stuffing tube should i get? right now i am working on stripping the hull and im goin to do some body work before parts go in.

thanks