Miss K+ Redman build

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Be my guest. You will be amazed at how many places you can use them.

You can tighten or lower the clamping force 2 ways. The cross sectional width and the size of the jaw opening. You can even make them grab onto angles if you adjust the jaws to conform...I can't build a model without them, lol
 
I am just Slow! Other things getting in the way. I got ther driver painted though (ya major progress not)

Hope to get back on it this weekend though.

Jim
 
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Hey Hugh,

Not a lot to report. Progress is moving forward, slowly. I just keep adding pieces as I get time. This past weekend I added the sponson sides so the hull is complete from the deckline down. Next up, I have to seal the inside, take care of some final trimming, and contour all the deck lines. Then I have to layout component location for cg balance. I'll post some pics later this week.

Scott
 
Looks great Eric.

Mine is still on the building jig, but I will be sanding on it today.
 
Eric what are you using for power?

if anyone else needs plans for 16th shovels or 3 pointers pm me.
 
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Oh no wonder its so fast hes got a freakin Lehner 1535/5 in this little girl. IIl investigate you brother(eric) lol.

you do some nice video work too by the way.

you should start a thread and show your boats. I like that outrigger too. Its fast as well.
 
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Thanks, in the Miss K (with redesigned cowl to match the specs of Mathea VII) of the video-clip it is running a Leopard 2850/2.5D (5280kV no load) and a K29 carbon prop. For higher speeds, larger props it is recommended to use two LiPos, one on each side of the middle, to 'overcome' any torqueforce.

One important tip: when building in the strut, make sure there is a 1 - 2 degr strut angle to the watersurface (to prevent the sturt from dragging/ ploughing through the water).
 
Eric, thanks for the info. I see you ask me a question on youtube about setup. The build is on here its the 16th scale atlas van lines thread in the fe forum. Im flattered that you asked me becasue I want my boat to run like yours. Yours seems alot faster, exactly what im looking for . Shovels are faster anyway than 3 points I think- they sure seem to be.

hugh
 
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Maybe this will help. picture on the right is close looks like it needs to come up a little further though if you click on the image it will take you to my photo gallery and you can view a full size image there

 
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@U-40

Very important picture! The bottom of the tunnel-top at the front is not flat. That's a beginner-mistake I made the first time I built a roundnose kit... The result was a roundnose that liked to nosedive so now and then :unsure: .
 
Thanks for the input Jim, Eric.

After much deliberation, I decided to raise the front of the bottom tunnel to meet sponson sheers as opposed to sanding the sheers down.

Finished sealing the front of the boat and added some reinforcing here and there. The plan is to put down the decks next weekend.

DSCF1961.JPG
 
Hey Hugh,

Nothing to report new, been stupid busy at work with overtime. I also started a prototype build of a new kit for Doug Campbell, so the Redman hasn't had much attention paid to her lately. I plan on getting some sanding done tomorrow and next week.
 
U-40 said:
Maybe this will help. picture on the right is close looks like it needs to come up a little further though if you click on the image it will take you to my photo gallery and you can view a full size image there

Click to expand...
Notice in the plans a stuffing tube just bigger than the wire. This design works great . I have the same setup in my Atlas 16th

Which way will you go? wire or .130 / .098 flex?
 
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