Lovinnitro's .21 mono

[lovinnitro]

Alright,

I have my new .21 Mono. I,m going to be working on two boats. My OB cat and this mono. I need some help with this one fellas. I built my gas vee so I,m no dummy but again input the heck outta me ok? As I post some pics I'll shoot my first questions. I'll tell you what I know about the boat and if you know something feel free to tell

Thanks All,

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[lovinnitro]

Another Shot.

The boat seems to be pretty well made, (not flimsey anyway) but is pretty light. From what I know it is a John Finch design

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[lovinnitro]

Motor mount and stuffng tube. I believe the guy who did this has the stuffing tube off a little where it will meet with the engine ( little low and to the left) is bending it into position a problem?

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[lovinnitro]

I know the trim tabs have to go. (waaaaay to big) Anybody got a pair?

Also, should the rudder bracket be angled like that? All I have seen are straight up/down. again ANY comments, I want to set this boat up as best as possible. I don't know how it'll run but I want all I can get.

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[lovinnitro]

Here is the motor, pipe and flex. How do I make the connection from the flex to the motor? I also need some help (pics if possible) of radio box set ups.

Double I,m going to go over your pics to se what I get but if you can think of anything let me know.

Also EVERYTHING that came with this boat, 'cept tuned pipe, is new w/ original packaging (if not still sealed)

The prop is an Octura X440/3. Good prop for this set up yes/no?.

Thanks gang and look forward to some input .

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[Ron Olson]

One thing that I just noticed in these pix that I didn't pay any attention to on the other site is that the builder rounded off the corners where the freeboard (sides) and bottom meet. this could affect handling in the corners. They way that John designed it had the sides hanging down slightly which probably worked as spray rails plus helped grab in the turns.

Here's the construction article, you boat was modified from the original plans:

http://www.rcboatmodeler.com/plans/fspb10002.asp

 

[TimD]

Here is the motor, pipe and flex. How do I make the connection from the flex to the motor?

You need to buy a 1/4 -28 thread 3/16" flex hex. I would reccommend the Aeromarine one. Unscrew the grey coloured universal joint holding the flywheel on, and replace it with the flex hex.

If that motor is a Thunder Tiger I would stronly suggest replacing the standard bearings ASAP. Will save you a lot of expensive parts.

 

[Propjockey]

The rudder bracket angled like that will plant the rear end in a right turn...the builder may have set it up that way on purpose. I'd try it like it is before punching new holes in the transom.

 

[lovinnitro]

Tim,

why is that on the bearings? Yes it,s a Thunder Tiger Pro 21 M-R. Who and or what do you suggest?

Ron I'll check out that link I think I'll leave it ("cept for trim tabs and alaign stuffing tube better) and see how it handles. Any body got any pics of a radio box set up so I can get ideas??

Thanks for the input.

 

[_laxmasta2039]

hey i saw one of these race sunday...without the mods and WITH a .45 in it!

it really flew and handling wasnt bad like i expected it to be...

check back and look at my "project vice city racing" thread, i think there's a pic of a radio box.

here's the address of the guy i got my box from....great deal, doesnt include a servo mount though- [email protected]

joe

 

[TimD]

Tim,

why is that on the bearings? Yes it,s a Thunder Tiger Pro 21 M-R. Who and or what do you suggest?

The standard bearings have metal retainers - yuk! When they fail metal goes everywhere and kills everything.

I'd suggest you fit bearings with Polyamide or phenolic retainers. I can reccomend Ron at racecraft bearings - very helpful and good to deal with.

[email protected]

Tim.

 

[lovinnitro]

OK couple o' more questions here. I have an Octura 440X/3 but it doesn't slide all the way down on the drive dog. due to one of the blades. Do I notch the blade or is the a smaller drive dog for something like this. The prop was unopened so it needs to be sharpened and balanced.

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[lovinnitro]

next is the rudder placement. It appears that when the prop is in its correct postion that my rudder will hit turning left. The bottom of the bracket is in line with the right stringer. I think I have to move it. Should I keep it at this angle. Ron O., didn't you say the builder did his this way. Also what do I want to add to the back. I.e Turn fins, trim tabs, etc. or see how she handles with what it has.

DavidJ, do you have an adj. strut on yours. and how do you mean it fills with water??? any thing I can do to eliminate that? Again, I think Ron said something about my corners being rounded at the bottom when they should have had a point. Can I add metal strakes to it?

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[lovinnitro]

I really wan tto get everything in place so I can refresh th epaint scheme and clean up a little sloppy workmanship so thanks in advance for the replies

 

[garrett randall]

Hi

Mike Z (grimracer) makes a .12 version of the wild thing. He has it all complete and ran it as a demo at the shoot out last weekend. Boat handled well, and also turned left (if that is your goal) If you email him, or check out his website maybe he has some pictures of his boats transom and radio box.

Garrett Randall

 

[MikeP]

The plans suggest the rudder to be out past the prop. 3.25" to 4" from the transom.

You can get a smaller drive dog that will fit closer to the size of the prop. I like to cut the drive dog down to fit the prop while doing the prop work. Prop and drive dog look like one piece when you are finished.

-MikeP