Flexishaft - Glue

[ids987]

Just wondering if anyone here has used the glue (or Loctite) method - for fixing flexi to stub shaft.

I have a non-standard stub shaft (8mm O/D, 5mm at the dog - turned down to 3/16" for the prop) - which was originally glued to the flexi. I have extracted the cable with heat, and am considering re-glueing the new cable. I don't really know what to use to glue it though.

Any suggestions please ?

Ian

 

[Dan Hydro]

Most of the shaft I have seen and bought are soldered but maybe there is a glue out there.

Dan.

 

[ids987]

Most of the shaft I have seen and bought are soldered but maybe there is a glue out there.
Dan.

Hi Dan,

Same thing goes - mostly hard soldered. This shaft came frome here though http://precision-in-perfection.co.uk/flexiparts.html

- and he swears by glue. I can't get hold of them at the moment though. The shaft's never been used, and the strut suits the non-standard shaft dimensions, so I really want to keep the stub-shaft. The only standard thing about it is the 1/4" cable dimension.

If it comes down to it, I guess I'll silver solder it, but I'm pretty sure I've seen the subject on the forum before....

Ian

 

[Glenn Quarles]

Ian, if you don't get an answer soon, you might want to try posting it in the FE section...I know those guys use Locktight a lot to glue cables together. They would be the ones with the experience to give some good advice.

Glenn

 

[PropNut]

Locktite 648.

All the best,

Ray

 

[Charles Perdue]

Just wondering if anyone here has used the glue (or Loctite) method - for fixing flexi to stub shaft.I have a non-standard stub shaft (8mm O/D, 5mm at the dog - turned down to 3/16" for the prop) - which was originally glued to the flexi. I have extracted the cable with heat, and am considering re-glueing the new cable. I don't really know what to use to glue it though.

Any suggestions please ?

Ian

I am playing with a wire drive in a 12 rigger. I am currently using 638 locktite to fasten the wire into the stub shaft. There may be better adhesives out that someone else is using.

 

[llema]

The European guys use Loctite 648 and 638 on a lot of their gas and electric boats for flex to ferule/shaft coupling.

 

[ids987]

Thanks for the replies.

I thought I'd get an answer on here !

Ian

 

[HendricX]

As 638/648 is very expensive in the 50cc bottles ,

some europ. shops sell 5 or 10cc syringes/re-packed filled with 638/648.

> MHZ and MTL

 

[ids987]

As 638/648 is very expensive in the 50cc bottles ,some europ. shops sell 5 or 10cc syringes/re-packed filled with 638/648.

> MHZ and MTL

Thanks Hendricx, I just found 50ml bottles of 638 on eBay for about €12.60 though, so I will probably grab one. I did consider trying 603, as I have a bottle at home, and it seems to be broadly similar properties. The strength is slightly less though, and the high temperature fall-off looks a bit faster. Looks like 638 and 648 are almost the same - but 638 has retains its strength slightly better at higher temperatures. I suppose the stub shaft end of the flexi shouldn't really get that hot, but better safe than sorry !

Ian

 

[Sean Bowf]

Just curious...but why not solder it??

I am no expert...but I run a drill bit in and out of the stub to scrape the sides a little. I put some flux on a q-tip and run it down inside the stub, then cut off a small piece of silver solder and drop it in. Then I dip the cable in flux. I clamp the stub upright, and heat it with a propane torch while holding the flex into it. When the solder melts and the flex drops down into the stub, I heat just a little more to make sure the solder penetrates the flex and then I remove the heat and let it cool.

So far, so good (knock on wood). I have not had one come apart yet.

Sean

 

[Tom Foley]

Just curious...but why not solder it??
I am no expert...but I run a drill bit in and out of the stub to scrape the sides a little. I put some flux on a q-tip and run it down inside the stub, then cut off a small piece of silver solder and drop it in. Then I dip the cable in flux. I clamp the stub upright, and heat it with a propane torch while holding the flex into it. When the solder melts and the flex drops down into the stub, I heat just a little more to make sure the solder penetrates the flex and then I remove the heat and let it cool.

So far, so good (knock on wood). I have not had one come apart yet.

Sean

Exactly ....how much could the solder possibly weigh ?

 

[T.S.Davis]

I use Loctite 603 on all of my wire drives. My FE Sport40 Whiplash run a .093 wire drive at about 25000 rpm ish up to around 60 mph. I've never tried it on a flex cable though. Nice thing about 603 is that it's oil tolerant. I think 638 is stronger but if you don't get ever last trace of grease out of the cable it might fail. I say might because I don't know for sure. I've used 609 with success but again on wire and I cleaned all the parts with alchohol etc.

Be careful with the expiration dates too. The stuff really does go bad after a while. Been there, fed the prop monster to prove it.

You might try calling Loctite tech support as crazy as that sounds.

 

[ids987]

Just curious...but why not solder it??

Good point Sean, I'm kind of asking myself the same question now. I think I was originally hoping to use something I already had (like the Loctite 603, or two part acrylic glue), and trying to stick with the way the original shaft was made. The 603 is out of date though (by about two years), and I've been steered away from the two part stuff.

I have silver solder, flux, and a blow torch, so it probably should be a no-brainer. I've bought some 638 now though (should be in the post), so I will probably try that way.

Thanks again to all contibutors.

Ian

 

[scootertrash]

Just curious...but why not solder it??

Good point Sean, I'm kind of asking myself the same question now. I think I was originally hoping to use something I already had (like the Loctite 603, or two part acrylic glue), and trying to stick with the way the original shaft was made. The 603 is out of date though (by about two years), and I've been steered away from the two part stuff.

I have silver solder, flux, and a blow torch, so it probably should be a no-brainer. I've bought some 638 now though (should be in the post), so I will probably try that way.

Thanks again to all contibutors.

Ian

marine tex epoxy works great

 

[jefffro007]

I know loctite also makes a sleeve retaining formula . Im not sure of what it's exactly called but i can find out if you would like ? We just call it green loctite . It fuses the two metals together . I've used it many times installing sleeves in cast iron engine blocks at the machine shop .