Fiber tuned-pipe resin
- Thread starter Atious
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Atious,
A friend of mine used Vynlester resin successfully.
Ian.
A friend of mine used Vynlester resin successfully.
Ian.
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Tim,
Bolly wont tell me what he uses either, his is some nasty custom blend of epoxy. But I asked Mark Mills and he uses ordinary vynlester resin. You would have to ask him if it degreades, but he mentioned no problems to me.
Ian.
Bolly wont tell me what he uses either, his is some nasty custom blend of epoxy. But I asked Mark Mills and he uses ordinary vynlester resin. You would have to ask him if it degreades, but he mentioned no problems to me.
Ian.
To quote Homer Simpson "shut up brain or I'll stab you with a q tip"Mike Bontoft
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Hi Tim
I have some Bolly pipes on order to try on the A motors. If they work good I will offer them on my web site. For a while I had the same Idea. Just could not figure out the best way to make them and what resin to use. What do you think about a lost wax or lost foam method.
Mike
I have some Bolly pipes on order to try on the A motors. If they work good I will offer them on my web site. For a while I had the same Idea. Just could not figure out the best way to make them and what resin to use. What do you think about a lost wax or lost foam method.
Mike
K
Kez
Guest
I have used the auto muffler bandage repair kit to attach a piece to a .21 tuned pipe header. Although I have never tried moulding a tuned pipe with this stuff, I can see it might work. If it withstands the heat of a car exhaust, it should work well for our tuned pipes.
Kez
Kez
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Mike,
Good idea, I was not that thrilled with the A pipe. Bolly is MUCH better. However I dont know how they will go in a fully cowled boat. They have been fine on my monos and rigger so far.
Tim, Mike
The lost wax method is what Mark Mills uses with vynlester resin, so the cure temp cant be that hot.
Bolly uses a different method. He has steel cores (I think they are steel) of each half of the pipe. He lays up one half on each core and allows it to cure. Then the two halves are assembled and an outer layer is added to join them. This is a better system for volume production.
Ian.
Good idea, I was not that thrilled with the A pipe. Bolly is MUCH better. However I dont know how they will go in a fully cowled boat. They have been fine on my monos and rigger so far.
Tim, Mike
The lost wax method is what Mark Mills uses with vynlester resin, so the cure temp cant be that hot.
Bolly uses a different method. He has steel cores (I think they are steel) of each half of the pipe. He lays up one half on each core and allows it to cure. Then the two halves are assembled and an outer layer is added to join them. This is a better system for volume production.
Ian.
Hey Mike,
I was thinking of making a couple of different shape inboard pipes at low cost to test them basically - so the quality is not so important.
If the temperature of the Vinylester is not to hot when it cures then I was thinking of using the Lost Wax method just to make some test items. Foam would be the alternative if the temp is too high for wax, but it's harder to work with.
The Bolly pipe's will work on your A motor's - I have seen how Ian's perform and they work!
I was thinking of making a couple of different shape inboard pipes at low cost to test them basically - so the quality is not so important.
If the temperature of the Vinylester is not to hot when it cures then I was thinking of using the Lost Wax method just to make some test items. Foam would be the alternative if the temp is too high for wax, but it's harder to work with.
The Bolly pipe's will work on your A motor's - I have seen how Ian's perform and they work!
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Tim,
If you have some ideas for pipe design, just let me know. Bolly is about 1/2 hour up the road for me. If I supply cores he can make pipes...... ;D It would save you the mess of having to get all the gear to do it.... 8)
Ian.
If you have some ideas for pipe design, just let me know. Bolly is about 1/2 hour up the road for me. If I supply cores he can make pipes...... ;D It would save you the mess of having to get all the gear to do it.... 8)
Ian.
Mike Bontoft
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I have ordered the none muffled pipes for ease of testing. Is there any problem fitting the clamp on stinger mufflers to the CF pipe.
Mike
Mike
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Mike,
When did you order them? Fitting the clamp on stingers might be a bit hard as the outside finish is quite rough and the clamp stingers would not be much good. The muffled type are made as one piece so it wont break off. I recommend them, they are quiet too (hey Tim!). Maybe you can change your order?
Ian.
When did you order them? Fitting the clamp on stingers might be a bit hard as the outside finish is quite rough and the clamp stingers would not be much good. The muffled type are made as one piece so it wont break off. I recommend them, they are quiet too (hey Tim!). Maybe you can change your order?
Ian.
Ian is correct, the muffled Bolly's are very quiet.
Forget trying to clamp to a CF pipe. There is practically no chance of it staying on there. My Bolly Pipe wouldn't keep a muffler on it no matter what I did.
The idea's I have for pipes are just that at this point and I don't know if they will work or not. Certainly not worth making cores for unless they work! Cheap test items are the first step! They can look rough for all I care and if they don't work I can throw them away without loosing much investment.
Forget trying to clamp to a CF pipe. There is practically no chance of it staying on there. My Bolly Pipe wouldn't keep a muffler on it no matter what I did.
The idea's I have for pipes are just that at this point and I don't know if they will work or not. Certainly not worth making cores for unless they work! Cheap test items are the first step! They can look rough for all I care and if they don't work I can throw them away without loosing much investment.
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Mike,
The only way we successfully muffled one was to use a very small silicone pipe coupler (rather than putting the muffler over the stinger of the pipe) and a mount for the muffler as well. It worked, but wasnt that neat.
Ian.
The only way we successfully muffled one was to use a very small silicone pipe coupler (rather than putting the muffler over the stinger of the pipe) and a mount for the muffler as well. It worked, but wasnt that neat.
Ian.
Mike Bontoft
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Thanks for the info
I think I will try the unmuffled type first, maybe with a silicone coupler. Would you say the CF standard pipes are quieter than the aluminum.
I think I will try the unmuffled type first, maybe with a silicone coupler. Would you say the CF standard pipes are quieter than the aluminum.
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Mike,
Yes they are quieter than aluminium pipes, for example my 45 was under the db limit we use in Australia after the muffler fell off. But in the US it seems that you have to have some sort of muffling device, so I am not sure if you would be allowed to race it un-muffled.
Ian.
Yes they are quieter than aluminium pipes, for example my 45 was under the db limit we use in Australia after the muffler fell off. But in the US it seems that you have to have some sort of muffling device, so I am not sure if you would be allowed to race it un-muffled.
Ian.
Mike Bontoft
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Looking at the races I have been in, Including last years Nationals, I think if it was under 90DBs it would be OK. I guess it depends on where the lake is located and whose running the event.
Mike
Mike
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Mike,
If you are just testing you probably should be okay. Maybe just a bit of silicone hose on the end will be enough....
Ian.
If you are just testing you probably should be okay. Maybe just a bit of silicone hose on the end will be enough....
Ian.
EatMyShortsRacing
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Ian,
can you organise me 2 pipes for the twin... and advise on how you mounted yours.
Craig
can you organise me 2 pipes for the twin... and advise on how you mounted yours.
Craig
