Do you tin the collet end of the cable?

[Kez]

I have always tin the engine end of the cable with StaBrite silver solder. My thinking was that wetting the end may help prolong the life of the cable and help it from unwinding and twisting.

Just returned from the lake this weekend with an unusual failure I have not experienced. After a few laps, the cable started to slip and the engine rev'ed way up. I shut it down quickly. After retrieving the boat, I noticed the collet was smoking hot to a point where it started to discolor. The solder actually melted and gotten into the collet and the thread. The outer strands had stretched and extended over the core of the cable by 1/8".

Did soldering the cable end cause this problem?? Yes, I did leave a 1/8 to 3/16 gap at the thrust washer to allow for shrinkage. The thrust washer showed no sign of wear so I think the 1/8" gap is probably too much.

Has anyone experience this? The cable connector is the standard Aeromarine/Prather type (forgot where I bought it but they are the same animal). Suggestions?

Thanks,

kez

 

[Hydro Junkie]

I've never tinned the collet end of a flex shaft. It makes it hard to hold as the cable can't crush down so that the collet can really get a grip on it

 

[Walt Barney]

I think the problem is the gap... I leave a gap equal to the dia. of the cable. Example 3/16 cable I use a 3/16 gap. I have tried to Silver solder the cable and not to Silever solder, and have never been able to tell a differance in the life of the cable

Walt Barney

 

[Jim Allen]

Judging from the number of posts seen on many different web sites about the failure of these poorly designed cable collets, I think it is a fair assumption, that they DO NOT WORK PROPERLY, even when severly tightened!

The included photos show a cable collet assembly that WILL NOT SLIP when properly tightened. The cable end has been carefully soldered by first throughly de-greasing in acetone, brake cleaner, MEK, Paint thinner, etc. Only a LIQUID type flux can be used to solder the cable end completly through to its core. The cable is repeatedly dipped in the flux & re-soldered until the core is solid. I do not use Stay Brite solder for any thing on my boats. Notice this is done for a distance of approximately 1.000". These split collets are made in different sizes .245", .246", .247", .248" because the cables are different sizes. The collets are a spring temper, 5/8" long & the collet's seat full hard 0-1 steel. The clamping surface of the locking nut is protected with a spring steel washer. High pressure grease is used on the 32 pitch threads which allow agressive tightening preventing any slippage. No re-tightening is necessary once the collet has been closed with the two 5/8 wrenches.

Can none of the hardware manufacturers make a reliable assembly?

Jim Allen

Note: I also use this same type of clamping assembly on solid shafts.

 

[Kez]

Walt, I have been thinking about the gap...Do you think the gap size should be a percentage of the cable length? instead of a fixed space? I tried twisting the cable with one end clamped on a vice but I can not get it to shrink by 1/8". The thrust washers in all my boats do not show much wear, which makes me think that the gap is probably too much and the engine bearings are taking the thrust load.

HJ, I am cutting a new cable and will try without soldering the end this time.

Jim, I used Stay Brite silver solder because it is easy to obtain. It comes with a bottle of liquid flux and I tried to get the solder to wick into the strands as much as I could. I am surprised to find that the heat from the slipping cable (a matter of seconds) can melt the solder. I think I found the answer to why the cable failed in your reply....The cable is probably a couple of thous undersized and the collet did not have enough grip on the cable.

Thanks,

kez

 

[Chris Wood]

knock on wood i havn't had a cable issue for YRS. i two also solder my cables. i use 3/16 or so gap.. EYE BALL. it aint that critical.

i think you just gota bad collet.. it happens. I myself have had better luck with octura's than aeromarine.. but that is me personally.

chris

 

[Sean Bowf]

I solder mine...but you need to be careful to NOT let it wick too far into the cable. If it does it can cause it to break.

I tape mine off right where I want to cut it (on the keeper side of the cut), then I put flux on it and solder it. Then I cut it at the tape. The outside of.the cable does not really look soldered, but the cut end pretty much looks solid.

Just my 2 cents...

Sean

 

[Tom Foley]

I always solder myself , pain in the ass but worth it imo . As Jim mentioned high pressure grease , antiseize , or TefGel on stainless is neededto lessen thread friction for aggressive tightening . Don't be afraid to tighten the hell out of the collet nut . Jimmys design is awesome and I think the Aeromarine would be better with finer threads , but if you change the collet itself after repeated hard use ...it helps . The brass inserts are worthless for me .I've never lost a shaft to a problem with a collet assy , only to not tightening

 

[Bill Gibson]

Must be pure dumb luck, but ive used everything from set screw type collets, to K&B, Aeromarine and Octura, and simply dont remember the last time ive ever had a problem with any, unless i simply forgot to tighten em after i replaced the flex shaft....ive never soldered the end of the shaft and i wont until i have a reason to........

 

[Tom Foley]

Must be pure dumb luck, but ive used everything from set screw type collets, to K&B, Aeromarine and Octura, and simply dont remember the last time ive ever had a problem with any, unless i simply forgot to tighten em after i replaced the flex shaft....ive never soldered the end of the shaft and i wont until i have a reason to........

:lol:I think you have to use them for more than 10 minutes a year for a problem to surface if it will ever surface !!!! LOL :lol: :lol: :lol:

 

[Kez]

Must be pure dumb luck, but ive used everything from set screw type collets, to K&B, Aeromarine and Octura, and simply dont remember the last time ive ever had a problem with any, unless i simply forgot to tighten em after i replaced the flex shaft....ive never soldered the end of the shaft and i wont until i have a reason to........

Actually I have used set screw type collets (early K&B/Marine Specialties) and Dumas and those did not come loose. The down side is they all have horrible run out and vibrate like crazy.

The reason I solder the cable is to stop the outer strands/wind from stretching over the inner core. When it happens the cable grew in length and there is space between the wires in the outer layer. Am I the only one who has this problem?

As I have found out, solder the cable did not prevent this.

 

[Jim Allen]

Must be pure dumb luck, but ive used everything from set screw type collets, to K&B, Aeromarine and Octura, and simply dont remember the last time ive ever had a problem with any, unless i simply forgot to tighten em after i replaced the flex shaft....ive never soldered the end of the shaft and i wont until i have a reason to........

Actually I have used set screw type collets (early K&B/Marine Specialties) and Dumas and those did not come loose. The down side is they all have horrible run out and vibrate like crazy.

The reason I solder the cable is to stop the outer strands/wind from stretching over the inner core. When it happens the cable grew in length and there is space between the wires in the outer layer. Am I the only one who has this problem?

As I have found out, solder the cable did not prevent this.

If you solder it solid for a long enough length (1.000") that will not happen.

 

[Walt Barney]

Kez,

I don't know what the real answer is, I just know what works for me, I have a flexshaft in my 20 hydro, and 20 mono that have in use for at least 5 years, my 40 hydro was about 4 years old when I sold the boat. You could tell they have been in the boat a long time because the outside of the cable was wore down almost flat. I also sell flexshafts and the only problem is when the shafts spins in the cullet and then people don't change the whole collet out, and it spins the new cable also.

Walt Barney

 

[Bill Gibson]

Must be pure dumb luck, but ive used everything from set screw type collets, to K&B, Aeromarine and Octura, and simply dont remember the last time ive ever had a problem with any, unless i simply forgot to tighten em after i replaced the flex shaft....ive never soldered the end of the shaft and i wont until i have a reason to........

:lol:I think you have to use them for more than 10 minutes a year for a problem to surface if it will ever surface !!!! LOL :lol: :lol: :lol:

I dont wanna wear stuff out ya know! :lol:

 

[Joe Wiebelhaus]

Never B)

 

[Bill Gibson]

I just wanted to add that after i cut the cable to correct length, i round off the cut end, not a taper, but round....dont know if it even makes a difference, but its what i do.....

 

[Tim Kish]

Never B)

 

[Tom Foley]

:lol:OK ..so whats a better car Ford ...or Chevy ??? :lol: :lol: :lol: :lol: :lol: :lol:

 

[dave roach]

What is better-Ford or Chev

Never.

Dave Roach

 

[Sean Bowf]

A week ago I would have said Ford...but after being $1300 into a two wheel brake job on my F150...

Sean