disaster first run

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John Capps

Well-Known Member
Joined
Dec 9, 2005
Messages
209
Posting this by phone so hope it works. Took my new rigger out late yesterday and tried to run it but could not get it to fire. For some reason it would not get fuel. Made many adjustments to richen and even bypassed the 3rd channel. I ran out of daylight and brought it to the cabin and worked on it on the porch just to see if it would fire. I discounted the pressure line from the pipe and blew some fuel in to the carb and finally got it to fire up. It ran for a few seconds and stopped. I tried it again and it started but as it did the pin fell out pf the rudder and it came off the boat and in to the prop. Both set screws in the rudder had all but come out. The rudder is a little beat up but one blade of the prop is toast. Has this ever happed to anyone before? Any suggestions on my fuel issue? I have the stock jae21 rudder and flex tank. I have a couple of spare props none if which are the right size but hope to at least try and get some break in time on the motor while here this week.
 
Good thing the rudder pin fell out on the bench!! I've had that happen in the water, lost the blade, stripped the servo gears... bla bla..

Make sure you don't have the pressure and supply lines for the fuel mixed up.. Check that the line inside the tank isn't pushing flat against the plastic and blocking it from getting fuel..

Those rudders from Zipp, though work well, are pretty cheap.. loctight the screws..
 
The lines are connected correctly, the fuel pickup in the tank is not blocked, I put the set screws back in last night with loctite and I made sure when I was starting it that is was not backwards.
 
John... check the engine screws all... used engine? what engine?... I'm thinking you have an air leak and the case wont build pressure enough to pulse the pipe?... check the pipe tap ( I've JB welded around a few).... new tank?... put it in the sink and pressure test it.... check things is all, because you will face and chase a lean engine and damage if you dont find the problem... ( wont draw/push fuel) work on it..... plenty of guys here.... mike
 
John, just go through and recheck everything like stated above. Sometimes you may have to put your finger over the stinger to get fuel to the carb, but once its started, it should continue to run. And also like stated above, make sure the lines INSIDE the tank are at least 1/8 inch away from EVERYTHING. sides, top, bottom.

PS. Your clamps went out this afternoon. I sent 1 1/4 and 1 1/2 as I couldnt remember what size I sent the other fella. Should arrive thursday.
 
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John has new GO 7 port with a Woods S pipe and using the Sullivan fuel tank supplied with the Zipp kit. I put the pressure fitting in the pipe. I have not seen the boat since he has finished the boat. In fact all gear is new.

Make sure you do not have a small kink in the brass fuel tubes for the tank. A restriction with either one will result in this problem.
 
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I know this is a stupid question , but did it quit AFTER you pulled the ignitor off- and did you try a different plug ?

Making sure is all -_-

Andy
 
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As John Knight stated everything is new. Just checked everything on the tank plus for air leaks. It should be good. Will check pressure fitting on pipe. Glow plug is good and glowing bright. Checked it often while trying to get it running. It wasn't that it would stop after taking off the ignitor. It would never fire with it on while out in the water. The engine is good and tight and appears to have no leaks. Conflicting info that came with engine. Running in procedure states to unscrew top end mixture needle 1 to 2 turns. Then it states a typical starting point is 3.25 to 3.5 turns out from fully in. Wouldn't 1 to 2 turns be too lean? Should it be 1 to 2 turns from the typical starting point of 3.25 toto 3.5 turns so its rich for break in? I believe I had it pretty rich and even put my finger over the stinger as Rodney suggested with no success. Anyone have any suggestions on neddle setting for breaking in this engine or getting it running?
 
Open the needle 4 turns or so. Take the plug out and spin the motor over until a fine mist comes out the head. Pinch the fuel line with a clothes pin, hemostats or whatever.

Turn the boat up and dump any fuel out of the pipe. Set the carb about 1/3rd open. Check the plug on the ignitor, it should glow red hot.

Put the plug in but leave it loose 1/4 turn. Put the ignitor on the plug, engage the starter in the belt, pull off the hemostats and blip the starter, it should fire right up. If it doesn't wait a second, let the plug heat back up and blip the stater again, repeat til it goes.

Once it starts tighten the plug using the ignitor, then slowly remove it making sure it stays running, if not open the throttle a bit. Tighten the plug with your wrench. When you pull the trigger it should take a few seconds to clean out, if it screams immediately it's lean. If it's got a low end needle you can back it out a bunch to simplify things. ;)

ps: I loctite everything except head bolts...
 
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John, I struggled for over an hour to get one of my new GO engine to finally fire. Once I got it going, I kept on the throttle finger to keep it running until a full tank was run through it. Then, let it cool (not completely, as all of the pinch comes back and your back at point A again) then ran another so on and so fourth. The motors are just so **** tight that its a complete PITA to get them started.

All I run are the GO engines, and each one of them is a PITA like your experiencing. But once its over with, you will have a very good, solid running engine that will last you a long time.
 
Should I run the first couple of tanks on land or toss it in the water? Will it overheat without water?
 
John, there is no harm running the motor in on land. Keep the glow ignitor attached to the motor will help as well. Just make sure its rich. Also, keep an eye on the head temperature. I just use my fingers to tell. If you can keep them on there for a couple seconds before they get too hot, its about right. If it gets to the point that as soon as you touch it, you cant hold your fingers on it, richen it up a little bit. The fuel will keep the motor cool enough (since its being run in so rich anyhow) that you shouldnt have to worry.
 
Not trying to be a smart a$$ have you checked to see if the return and supply lines are backward? If you dumped fuel in it and it fired and quickly died and you checked everything else I would look at that. Recently happened to be is the only reason I would ask the question, for a week I could not figure it out and as I removed the tank for the 5th time I realized I had spun the thing 180 when I put it back together.
 
As John Knight stated everything is new. Just checked everything on the tank plus for air leaks. It should be good. Will check pressure fitting on pipe. Glow plug is good and glowing bright. Checked it often while trying to get it running. It wasn't that it would stop after taking off the ignitor. It would never fire with it on while out in the water. The engine is good and tight and appears to have no leaks. Conflicting info that came with engine. Running in procedure states to unscrew top end mixture needle 1 to 2 turns. Then it states a typical starting point is 3.25 to 3.5 turns out from fully in. Wouldn't 1 to 2 turns be too lean? Should it be 1 to 2 turns from the typical starting point of 3.25 toto 3.5 turns so its rich for break in? I believe I had it pretty rich and even put my finger over the stinger as Rodney suggested with no success. Anyone have any suggestions on neddle setting for breaking in this engine or getting it running?
John,

Maybe I'm reading this wrong, but were you trying to start the boat " In the Water " ? Phil
 
I would try blowing through the needle to see if it's restricted , maybe something is blocking it and it needs to be cleaned ?

With the plug loose hold your finger over the carb while turning it over , if it doesn't load up with fuel you are way to lean or somethings is not right.

Tim k
 
I had the return and supply lines correct. I rechecked the tank for air leaks as well as the pressure fitting on the pipe. By stating that I was out on the water I meant I was trying to start it from my jon boat out on the lake. The water was too rough in front of my house and had to go to a calm spot. Hope to try again tomorrow to get it fired up.
 
Open both needles WAY up , blow through the pressure line . Fuel should FLOOD the carb . if not remove carb , disassemble , clean and blow with compressed air , reassemble . then go 3 turns on main needle and blow through carb with a fuel line and make sur the low speed needle lets fuel flow at the SLIGHTEST opening . Should work !!
 
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