Clear coating

Intlwaters

Help Support Intlwaters:

This site may earn a commission from merchant affiliate links, including eBay, Amazon, and others.

Brad Seigler

Member
Joined
Aug 21, 2009
Messages
5
First off

I would like to say I am a newb to the rc boat world. I have been messing with them for a year or so, and that means I know very little on the subject. I am almost finished with construction on my first hull, and I am almost ready to stain it. I kick myself for not becoming a member here earlier because I would have built one of JAE riggers instead of this hull. It is a Dumas lil rascal. I know they suck if you build them just like the plans, but I have changed some stuff to try to help a bit with it's performance. My question is what do you guys use for clear coat after you are finished with stain? My plan is to get this one running, and drive it for a bit. Then start to build another true quality up to date hull in the same size range so that I can use some of the hardware off the rascal. Then hang the rascal up for decoration. Thanks for any help you guys give, and I am sure I will have more questions. I will post some pics this weekend of the boat. The biggest problem I have had so far is making room for the tank. I made room by making a cowl, and turning the tank on it's side. IT looks ok, but I would like to find a carbon cowl to cover it instead. Thanks again!

Brad
 
Last edited by a moderator:
If you are in a hurry to get to the water use MinWax. I used spray and let it flash between coats. The first few coats raise the grain in the wood a bit so let it dry over night and sand. Its going to take as many as 10 coats to do a good job. This is not the best system but it works if your on a budget or have to work outside<no garage. I built a 40 Roadrunner 20 years ago doing this and the guy i sold it to still races it with the same paint i put on it so i know it works.......
 
If you are in a hurry to get to the water use MinWax. I used spray and let it flash between coats. The first few coats raise the grain in the wood a bit so let it dry over night and sand. Its going to take as many as 10 coats to do a good job. This is not the best system but it works if your on a budget or have to work outside<no garage. I built a 40 Roadrunner 20 years ago doing this and the guy i sold it to still races it with the same paint i put on it so i know it works.......
Hey Mikey,

Did this hold up to fuel? Very interesting way to finish the boat.

Robert
 
If you are in a hurry to get to the water use MinWax. I used spray and let it flash between coats. The first few coats raise the grain in the wood a bit so let it dry over night and sand. Its going to take as many as 10 coats to do a good job. This is not the best system but it works if your on a budget or have to work outside<no garage. I built a 40 Roadrunner 20 years ago doing this and the guy i sold it to still races it with the same paint i put on it so i know it works.......
Hey Mikey,

Did this hold up to fuel? Very interesting way to finish the boat.

Robert
Yes but it was painted so was the engine bay using K/B paint
 
If you are in a hurry to get to the water use MinWax. I used spray and let it flash between coats. The first few coats raise the grain in the wood a bit so let it dry over night and sand. Its going to take as many as 10 coats to do a good job. This is not the best system but it works if your on a budget or have to work outside<no garage. I built a 40 Roadrunner 20 years ago doing this and the guy i sold it to still races it with the same paint i put on it so i know it works.......
Hey Mikey,

Did this hold up to fuel? Very interesting way to finish the boat.

Robert
Yes but it was painted so was the engine bay using K/B paint
Thanks for your help guys. I have some finish epoxy., and that is what I was planning on using. Thinning it does make sense because it would allow it to self level. I was planning on coating once, and allowing it to cure. Then sanding, and repeating the process a couple of times. Building this boat has been a lot of fun for me. I am the type of person that can't sit idle, and I love tedious stuff. I build bamboo fly rods, tie flies, and now I make rc boats. All of these thing are very exacting, and tedious. I LOVE IT! The only problem I am facing now is prop selection. I have some of Fullers Fast Electrics hardware on the way now. Once it comes in I will be ready to finish the mock up, and begin the painting process. I will deal with the prop after that. I am running a .18 in the boat, and I think it may be too much power for the boat. I purposely made everything extra stout because of the extra power, and the added weight may help to keep it on the water. Have a great weekend guys, and I promise I will add some pics soon.

Brad
 
I have always used west system epoxy with great results, it's a little pricey but it's good stuff. It is used to build and coat the real tunnel boats, you can thin it as well and buy different hardeners for cure time.
 
Brad

I am new to building boats and had the same questions about finishing a wood boat.

One one of the posts some one said use finishing epoxy.

I got some Z-POXY finishing epoxy and brushed it on and let it sit about 20 min. Then used a playing card to remove the excess like thy said. Then let it sit over night and scrap with a razor blade.

Turned out as smooooooth as a babies but!

Give it a try you will be very happy with the end results.

David
 
Last edited by a moderator:
guys, did you have any advert reaction with the thinning of the epoxy after it cured?

I have spoken to a couple of people about this, supposedly expert in the resin department,

and I was told that the epoxy change chemically once alcohol is in the mix, once it cures (longer curing time),

it becomes softer, more rubbery...

any thoughts on that?
 
Last edited by a moderator:
guy, did you have any advert reaction with the thinning of the epoxy after it cured?

I have spoken to a couple of people about this, supposedly expert in the resin department,

and I was told that the epoxy change chemically once alcohol is in the mix, once it cures (longer curing time),

it becomes softer, more rubbery...

any thoughts on that?
As long as you keep the mix accurate you won't have problems.

I only thin once on the initial mix. If you keep adding alcohol after the epoxy starts to set it will change the composition and cause problems.

gh
 
As long as you keep the mix accurate you won't have problems.

I only thin once on the initial mix. If you keep adding alcohol after the epoxy starts to set it will change the composition and cause problems.

gh

Thanks for the info...
 
Last edited by a moderator:
No need to thin. For the first coat I just use a heat gun/hair dryer and then wipe the excess of with a paper towel.

I then sand using a sanding sponge, and apply another thin coat of epoxy.

I then sand again using a very fine sanding sponge, until I get the required finish.
 
No need to thin. For the first coat I just use a heat gun/hair dryer and then wipe the excess of with a paper towel.

I then sand using a sanding sponge, and apply another thin coat of epoxy.

I then sand again using a very fine sanding sponge, until I get the required finish.
That's what I was doing and then I hear that even heating it too much can change the chemical balance of the epoxy...

does your epoxy cure properly? Is it rubbery or does it harden like it should?
 
I never had no problems with curing - don't use too much heat - just enough to make the epoxy flow easier.
 
Back
Top