Kris Flynn
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- Mar 11, 2002
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Brian, remember that his K&B is COMPLETELY modified by Kevin B (izitbrokeyet?) 
Check ya mail on something mate
Check ya mail on something mate
CF Bandit 30/PICS!!!
- Thread starter Slideblues
- Start date
Help Support Intlwaters:
Bryan, Yes I was able to repair that cracks pretty easy. I first took the Dremel to make room for some the epoxy. After that some 24 hour epoxy did the job. I sent you a mail about the SS and some other things. I stil am very happy with the hull, thanks to your work!
Jack I'm working on the radiobx right now. I put everything in. After that I will put the engine on the back and set that CG by moving the radiobox. That is the right way right?
Oscar
Jack I'm working on the radiobx right now. I put everything in. After that I will put the engine on the back and set that CG by moving the radiobox. That is the right way right?
Oscar
J
Jack Garcia
Guest
Oscar, actually for oval racing, I always install the radio box all the way forward. And with a K&B installed in the back, and the fuel tank just behind the radio box, the CG is just about right. I trim the engine slightly to get the ride I want.
J
Jack Garcia
Guest
Oscar, one thing that I did not clarify about tuning ( blueprinting) the sponsons.
First of all, as always, make sure that the riding surfaces are flat and parallel to each other. Secondly, sharpen corners of course( inside sponson, back edge of sponson). Take a fine sharp file to the step and remove any radius leaving a sharp edge. The rounded part should be sanded at a 45 degree angle x at least 1/4 " wide. If you are using it in the stock class, set the engine at a nagative angle of from 1 1/2 to 2 degrees. For mod, set at zero degrees. As I mentioned before, dont paint the blue printed area of the sponsons.
My friend Lennard Cuenco from Namba Dist. 9, suggested that I mention that he uses this method very successfully on his Killer tunnel sponsons that they are well tuned . He uses a pane of glass to be sure that the two points at the rear of the sponsons and the two points at the steps are all touching. He uses the glass because they are absolutely flat.
First of all, as always, make sure that the riding surfaces are flat and parallel to each other. Secondly, sharpen corners of course( inside sponson, back edge of sponson). Take a fine sharp file to the step and remove any radius leaving a sharp edge. The rounded part should be sanded at a 45 degree angle x at least 1/4 " wide. If you are using it in the stock class, set the engine at a nagative angle of from 1 1/2 to 2 degrees. For mod, set at zero degrees. As I mentioned before, dont paint the blue printed area of the sponsons.
My friend Lennard Cuenco from Namba Dist. 9, suggested that I mention that he uses this method very successfully on his Killer tunnel sponsons that they are well tuned . He uses a pane of glass to be sure that the two points at the rear of the sponsons and the two points at the steps are all touching. He uses the glass because they are absolutely flat.
Jack
thanks again for you reply. I will do everything as good as possible the way you say. I sharpened the edge of the step using a very sharp knife and a metal ruler.
I don't have to stick with any rules at all. We don't have enough outboards to race in different classes, if we have a race at all. However we do SAW so my target is to break (my own) 45 mph record. ;D
Oscar
Ps we have about 7 guy's who run outboards. Most of them have tunnels in all classes
thanks again for you reply. I will do everything as good as possible the way you say. I sharpened the edge of the step using a very sharp knife and a metal ruler.
I don't have to stick with any rules at all. We don't have enough outboards to race in different classes, if we have a race at all. However we do SAW so my target is to break (my own) 45 mph record. ;D
Oscar
Ps we have about 7 guy's who run outboards. Most of them have tunnels in all classes
hello all,
Jack's description is right on about blueprinting his boat...
The only things I would add is that there are four running surfaces on this boat, all four of these running surfaces should be PERFECTLY parallel to each other and PERFECTLY FLAT...if the step is large, the boat will ride nose high, if the step is small the boat will ride flat. For .45 mod engines that push the boat hard, you will want a smaller step to keep the boat from blowing off. To ensure that the sponsons are parallel front to back, we spot glue several feeler gauges to the back running surfaces and use them to guide the sanding block while sanding the forward running surface (our sanding blocks are made from hard oak that doesnt warp while wet sanding). You can remove the feeler gauges with CA remover when you have completed your sanding....(for .45 mod, we have been using 20/1000th's feeler gauges to compensate for the higher speeds of these boats, we leave the step at 1/32 for stock .45)
the last check that I do to complete the blueprinting, is to put the boat on a pane of glass to check three things: (1) the two front running surfaces are parallel to each other; (2) are the two rear running surfaces parallel to each other; and (3) do all four points touch the glass when you press the transom down....when you check (1) and (2) above, there should be no light shining between the running surface and the glass....
i find that if i screw up one of these things, the boat always tells me what I did wrong...if it doesnt ride flat in the straights...I messed up step (3) above, if it acts funny in the turns when the boat settles in the water for the turns I usually messed up steps (1) and (2) above...
hope this helps,
Len
Jack's description is right on about blueprinting his boat...
The only things I would add is that there are four running surfaces on this boat, all four of these running surfaces should be PERFECTLY parallel to each other and PERFECTLY FLAT...if the step is large, the boat will ride nose high, if the step is small the boat will ride flat. For .45 mod engines that push the boat hard, you will want a smaller step to keep the boat from blowing off. To ensure that the sponsons are parallel front to back, we spot glue several feeler gauges to the back running surfaces and use them to guide the sanding block while sanding the forward running surface (our sanding blocks are made from hard oak that doesnt warp while wet sanding). You can remove the feeler gauges with CA remover when you have completed your sanding....(for .45 mod, we have been using 20/1000th's feeler gauges to compensate for the higher speeds of these boats, we leave the step at 1/32 for stock .45)
the last check that I do to complete the blueprinting, is to put the boat on a pane of glass to check three things: (1) the two front running surfaces are parallel to each other; (2) are the two rear running surfaces parallel to each other; and (3) do all four points touch the glass when you press the transom down....when you check (1) and (2) above, there should be no light shining between the running surface and the glass....
i find that if i screw up one of these things, the boat always tells me what I did wrong...if it doesnt ride flat in the straights...I messed up step (3) above, if it acts funny in the turns when the boat settles in the water for the turns I usually messed up steps (1) and (2) above...
hope this helps,
Len
J
Jack Garcia
Guest
Len, Thank you for your input.
Oscar, guys, Len is a long time Bandit Killer runner, so he knows what he's talking about. He won the 7.5 mod opc 2002 championship in his district with his Killer racing against a flotilla of other brand tunnels. So he most deffinately knows how to set up a killer.
Oscar, guys, Len is a long time Bandit Killer runner, so he knows what he's talking about. He won the 7.5 mod opc 2002 championship in his district with his Killer racing against a flotilla of other brand tunnels. So he most deffinately knows how to set up a killer.
Kris Flynn
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- Joined
- Mar 11, 2002
- Messages
- 4,340
Jack, check your PM's
J
Jack Garcia
Guest
Kris, there's nothing in my personal mesages. ???
Kris Flynn
Well-Known Member
- Joined
- Mar 11, 2002
- Messages
- 4,340
hmmm dont know why it didnt go through otherthan the fact that i got that server resonse faiure thingy...but it usually lets the messages through anyway.
Tried again
Kris
Tried again
Kris
thanx ws..umm..i either left the belt off for the picture or i forgot to put the belt in...of course, showing up in the hotpits for your heat without a starting belt is always good for laffs from your competitors...which I have been known to do from time to time..
XtremeRcBoats
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- Jan 31, 2002
- Messages
- 1,217
Wow looks great, do you have a close up of the engine mount to the lower unit?
XtremeRcBoats
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- Jan 31, 2002
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already looking forward to it ;D
J
Jack Garcia
Guest
NEWS FLASH
Len takes 1st with his 33" Bandit killer in stock class and 2nd in mod class with his 35" at the Turkey Shoot at Kaiser cove in Namba dist. 9. Had one DNF with the mod boat.
Len takes 1st with his 33" Bandit killer in stock class and 2nd in mod class with his 35" at the Turkey Shoot at Kaiser cove in Namba dist. 9. Had one DNF with the mod boat.
james irwin
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- Dec 17, 2002
- Messages
- 486
;D LEN,
THANK FOR PUTING THE MOTOR ON FOR EVERY ONE TO SEE, THEY CAN TALK ABOUT FAST SET UPS BUT WE KNOW WHAT THE REALLY FAST ONES ARE ,DONT WE LEN, I WONT SAY A THING LEN , THEY WILL THINK I AM TRYING TO BLOW MY OWN HORN . SO I WILL LEAVE THIS OPEN TO YOU . TELL THEM ABOUT THE MOTOR AS YOU WOULD TO ANY ONE , THANK YOU ALL . J, IRWIN
THANK FOR PUTING THE MOTOR ON FOR EVERY ONE TO SEE, THEY CAN TALK ABOUT FAST SET UPS BUT WE KNOW WHAT THE REALLY FAST ONES ARE ,DONT WE LEN, I WONT SAY A THING LEN , THEY WILL THINK I AM TRYING TO BLOW MY OWN HORN . SO I WILL LEAVE THIS OPEN TO YOU . TELL THEM ABOUT THE MOTOR AS YOU WOULD TO ANY ONE , THANK YOU ALL . J, IRWIN
