Building q tunnel best options for motor

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rumrunner

Well-Known Member
Joined
Mar 31, 2007
Messages
1,692
Building q tunnel what is the best motor and ecu to buy for heat racing ?

Thanks
 
My boat had a turnigy 180 speed control and a castle 1520 1600kv motor on the back...
 
Where are they racing Q-Tunnels in this country?

All we have out here are P-Ltd... but I'd LOVE to see P and Q (Open... NAMBA recognizes P-LTD, P, and Open... which is 6-10S) take off out here.
 
Kris has it right. I think a 1520 1600kv Castle or Neu is the best motor. The T-180 controller is also a solid unit. We have been using Swordfish 200's and Castle 240's. You can go to a larger motor 1524-1527 in the 1250-1800kv range but loose handling and have speed you can't contain. The 1520 with an M445 will push low 60's, Jay set the Q-S oval records with a Castle 1520 on 6 and 7 cells. 8S was not an option as the boat would not stay on the water. Another motor would be a Scorpion 40 series or T600 Helicopter outrunner motor. No water cooling needed and a lot of torque. I have a Q 4020 Scorpion 1400kv on a Kneeler that has run 57mph and has more in it just not enough testing yet.

We have had several races in Charleston and Brandon running P and Q's.No big numbers yet 3-4 boat turnouts. In the D12-13 Gran prix series a Q works very well in open tunnel. A 1515/2200kv is a perfect 4S P motor. Going to 5S it will stay with the Q's all day. Lighter smaller boat needs calm conditions.

Mic
 
Where are they racing Q-Tunnels in this country?

All we have out here are P-Ltd... but I'd LOVE to see P and Q (Open... NAMBA recognizes P-LTD, P, and Open... which is 6-10S) take off out here.
Darin,

The World OB Tunnel Championships, hosted by the Charleston Model Boaters, and held in John's Island SC, has the Q class offered. So is a P, P Limited, an Open FE and an Open class. It has essentially all of the classes that can run with an OB engine. Next year's race will be held May 1-3, 2015. We host it generally the first weekend of May each year. This is the most competitive, has more classes and is the largest OB tunnel race held anywhere, hence the name of the World OB Tunnel Championships. It is strictly for tunnels and OB's only and it attracts more of the upper tier tunnel racers than any other race. Hope you can make it soon.
 
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I am trying to get more people interested in this class too. The "Q" is an animal and will come off the exit pin like a laws rocket!

It is a lot of fun to see the performance of the "Q" FE outboards.

-Carl
 
Thanks guys just getting my ducks in a row , making shore I don't get the wrong thing . Mic how much faster is the 1524-1527 than the 1520 , and is it the size of the motor that makes it loose handling .
 
Shane,

Knowing you and more power available it will be fun to watch you shoot yourself in the foot. I know you can't resist when it comes to power. A 1520 weighs 17oz without a waterjacket and is 40X84mm's rated at 3500mw, (3.5 Watts) A 1524 = 19.5oz /40X101mm tall and 4 Watts. 1527 = 22oz/ 40X101mmm tall and 4.5watts. So 5oz and an 3/4 inch taller isn't a lot on paper but add that watt (1.34hp/watt) and you simply have a boat that won't finish a heat. You also get into amp draw and need more battery weight to feed the larger motor. Now you need 7000-8000ma batteries to have a cushion. Not to mention a 240amp esc is marginal so now a 300 amp brick of a controller that will barely fit in the boat. In SAW testing my 1527 simply powered the boat over as we tried to accelerate. We ran faster with a 1520 using smaller props and higher kv's.

Castle doesn't make the 1520's anymore so Neu is what's available. Actually the Castles seem to show up on OSE want adds fairly often. There are some options with Leopard and TP motors with similar dimensions. Castle or Neu is what I like best.

Mic
 
Mic,a lil off topic here,but wondering how did David Calwell exp. boat work,that you are helping him with.

John
 
Castle motors are licensed to use a Neu design. They just discontinued the 1520 series. The kv range for a 1524 is 1700 in a D wind and 1380 in a Y wind. Neither are worth it to me as I cannot prop up now and make 6 laps without heat problems and need for larger battery packs. Going to a stiffer prop I can pick up mph now and not stress the 1520 motor. The ESC plus battery limits are more an issue as you need a larger amp rating for the extra power which you don't need. I know your thinking you want an edge and more motor is too easy. After you burn down a few things you'll understand

John, We got David running about 6 weeks ago. He came on plane easily and never even hit half throttle finding some setup and handling issues. Haven't heard much since.

Mic
 
Shane, you should go the 1717
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just go a 1521 size motor (Neu is best, think NOVA quality here) and around the 1400-1600 KV

Swordfish are good, but T180 is cheap ($80?)
 
just go a 1521 size motor (Neu is best, think NOVA quality here) and around the 1400-1600 KV

Swordfish are good, but T180 is cheap ($80?)
I'm with Kris... I'd run a 1521 1Y. (http://www.offshoreelectrics.com/proddetail.php?prod=neu-1521&cat=117)

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Because I run Spektrum radio gear, I can use a wheel controller to operate an ESC designed for sticks, so I run Castle ICE 200 ESCs... modified with water cooling. Solid controller, plenty of capacity, buttery smooth throttle, and Data Logging to boot. You can pick them up in either the LITE form (the ones I start with), or the standard form (with attached cooling case) right now from Castle in their "Garage Sale" department for $150.00 a pop. That's a solid deal on a solid controller, which will run up to 8S.

http://www.castlecreations.com/products/garage_sale.html

ice200lite.jpg


or

ice200.jpg


I'm pretty sure you could run that system on a 35"-Ish tunnel, properely tuned and setup, using a single 6000mAh 6S pack, and have more than enough speed to run out front. And, you won't be carrying around the extra weight of two 6S packs... You don't NEED 10,000mAh to push this boat to record speeds. A single 6000 pack can handle over 350A continuous...
 
I would say it is a VERY good idea Shane
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Especially with how fast you will want to be going
 
Do the esc need to be water cooled?
Yes... On a system like this, it's necessary.

If you aren't comfortable voiding the warrantee on the ESC, then I'd go with a Seaking or other marine-specific controller.

I think that there is a "Swordfish" 220 and 240A 8S controller available for under $150.00 as well.

I only use the Castles, so I don't have any time on those others.
 
No i'am not worried about warrantee , that's a good price on that castle , would just need some advice on water cooling it.
 
Some very good info on here from Kris and Mic.

Thanks guys for taking the time to share all the info you have on this subject
 
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