garrett randall
Well-Known Member
- Joined
- Jul 22, 2002
- Messages
- 475
This article was in one of the more recent IMPBA Roostertails (just looked it up December 2003), but I saw in a different thread someone was looking for this (M Larson)...
Hydro Intelligence
Ron Zaker Jr.
“Hello, my name is Ron Zaker Jr. and I am addicted to Hydros” All kidding aside this is my first attempt at submitting “tech” articles to the Roostertail pertaining to Hydros. I hope you find the presented information useful, regardless if you are a seasoned veteran or a new racer trying the Hydro classes. I have been very fortunate to have some of the best Hydro people in the country share thoughts, ideas and actually do test sessions together on a regular basis.I hope to pass along tips and information to help the Hydro class grow and become even more competitive. Okay let’s build a set up table. You may ask why? You will NEED this table to document your baseline set up, and to hopefully make positive changes that will enhance the performance of your Hydro. Here is what you need:
1 pc -2’ x4’x3/4” White Melamine shelf board (Home Depot,Lowe’s,etc)
2 pcs -1”x3”x4’ straight Pine boards.
4 pcs – 4 inch long adjustable table legs (with base).
Woodworking glue/drywall screws.
2 each of 2”x2” squares of wood or aluminum shim stock (1/64”, 1/32”, 1/16”, 3/32”, 1/8”, 3/16”, 1/4”)
Digital angle finder (pricey,but worth it)
Various steel rulers and straight edge.
Pad of paper for documentation.
Construction of this set up table is fairly straightforward. The Pine boards are attached underneath and run lengthwise “on edge”. I drill and countersink the tabletop, then glue and screw the boards to the table. Next is mounting the leg bases in the Four Corners under the table. My table has a slot in it so you can do your set up with the turn fin still mounted to the boat. I also have notches in the rear edge of the table so various rudders can be left in their normal position. Screw in the four legs and your done. That’s about it. The adjustable legs allow you to zero out your table in your shop, at the pond, and even in your hotel room while attending out of town races. The small squares of shim stock are used for measuring various dimensions all around the boat, such as rear sponson “off the table”and strut depth in relation to the rear sponsons.etc. Set up tables are like American Express cards “Don’t leave home without it” Hope this will help your program. C -YA
Hydro Intelligence
Ron Zaker Jr.
“Hello, my name is Ron Zaker Jr. and I am addicted to Hydros” All kidding aside this is my first attempt at submitting “tech” articles to the Roostertail pertaining to Hydros. I hope you find the presented information useful, regardless if you are a seasoned veteran or a new racer trying the Hydro classes. I have been very fortunate to have some of the best Hydro people in the country share thoughts, ideas and actually do test sessions together on a regular basis.I hope to pass along tips and information to help the Hydro class grow and become even more competitive. Okay let’s build a set up table. You may ask why? You will NEED this table to document your baseline set up, and to hopefully make positive changes that will enhance the performance of your Hydro. Here is what you need:
1 pc -2’ x4’x3/4” White Melamine shelf board (Home Depot,Lowe’s,etc)
2 pcs -1”x3”x4’ straight Pine boards.
4 pcs – 4 inch long adjustable table legs (with base).
Woodworking glue/drywall screws.
2 each of 2”x2” squares of wood or aluminum shim stock (1/64”, 1/32”, 1/16”, 3/32”, 1/8”, 3/16”, 1/4”)
Digital angle finder (pricey,but worth it)
Various steel rulers and straight edge.
Pad of paper for documentation.
Construction of this set up table is fairly straightforward. The Pine boards are attached underneath and run lengthwise “on edge”. I drill and countersink the tabletop, then glue and screw the boards to the table. Next is mounting the leg bases in the Four Corners under the table. My table has a slot in it so you can do your set up with the turn fin still mounted to the boat. I also have notches in the rear edge of the table so various rudders can be left in their normal position. Screw in the four legs and your done. That’s about it. The adjustable legs allow you to zero out your table in your shop, at the pond, and even in your hotel room while attending out of town races. The small squares of shim stock are used for measuring various dimensions all around the boat, such as rear sponson “off the table”and strut depth in relation to the rear sponsons.etc. Set up tables are like American Express cards “Don’t leave home without it” Hope this will help your program. C -YA
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