Square Drive set up

[KenBeller]

I run woods oilers on all my boats. It’s much easier to lube and I think creates less friction. I need to set up a 1/4 inch square drive and would prefer to avoid the coupler, set screws, bearings etc. I prefer to have the suffixing box pass through the strut. That way alll get lube from the oiler. Has anybody used a conventional welded flex shaft with a thrust bearing ahead of the dog drive and a simple shaft saver at the collet to keep the shaft from backing out. Seems like a simple set up that should work. I image the shaft might have to be installed from the stun end but I rarely pull the shaft with oilers do that no issue .
Please share your comments
Ken

 

[chriscarbon]

The square end of the cable is larger than the round part of the cable. That is the reason it is complicated to try to set it up the way you want to. You might take a look at the Bonzi sight. They have a stub shaft that excepts square drive before entering the strut. You would use a regular collet on the engine. I am sure if someone has done a square drive the way you are trying they will chime in.
Chris

 

[KenBeller]

Ya I know the squared end inceases the hypotenuse greater than the 1/4 in shaft. I could file corners in the shaft saver to fit over it. Seems to be a lot simpler and easier to lube. I goonavtry this can’t see why it would not work

 

[Mark Anderson]

Done it for years. Just a dubro collar and a thrust washer at the top. Works best if you also put a collar on the end of the tube for a larger bearing surface

 

[AgafonovRoman]

I run on these set up for years.

 

[chriscarbon]

That is a clean square drive set up! Thanks for the picture.
Chris

 

[John Beardslee]

I run woods oilers on all my boats. It’s much easier to lube and I think creates less friction. I need to set up a 1/4 inch square drive and would prefer to avoid the coupler, set screws, bearings etc. I prefer to have the suffixing box pass through the strut. That way alll get lube from the oiler. Has anybody used a conventional welded flex shaft with a thrust bearing ahead of the dog drive and a simple shaft saver at the collet to keep the shaft from backing out. Seems like a simple set up that should work. I image the shaft might have to be installed from the stun end but I rarely pull the shaft with oilers do that no issue .
Please share your comments
Ken

Ken,
What you are describing sounds like what some refer to as a “ hybrid” flex drive. Some of the scale boaters here in D2 we using it. Tom Kelly and Steve Peterson come to mind. You might contact them. If you don’t have contact numbers let me know and I’ll see if I can help.
John

 

[Wasted wages]

I take it the brass tube from the stuffing box engages just a little bit into the front of the strut ?

Is there a counterbore in the strut to allow the collar on the prop shaft to buffer against ?

Are there caged needle bearings in the strut ?

 

[KenBeller]

Thanks guys my initial thoughts confirmed.
Ken

 

[Mark Stein]

I run doble ended square drive and cant get the lower ferral for my boats. Basically gave up trying. Hyperformance used to sell them but wont make them after continually contacting him a few yrs ago over the period of a ydar. I finally gave up. Even after I said I would pay for 20 of them while I was on the phone. Just gave up trying .. want to knw another reason why boats are dying. Have not run a boat in 2 yrs and may sell all my boats and stuff soon. Tired of boats sitting on a shelf just taking up space.

 

[Mark Stein]

Hyperformance said he would make them then changed his mind 3 times. Pointless waste of time making calls till he would answer then yes no res no. Blah blah blah

 

[bzubee]

Octura

 

[bzubee]

Also TFL

 

[Troy Hammons]

Anyone have a picture of a die to square the end of flex? And how many tons of pressure does it take to square a shaft?

 

[John Beardslee]

Anyone have a picture of a die to square the end of flex? And how many tons of pressure does it take to square a shaft?

It takes a minimum of 60 tons. The die is pretty simple, nothing more than v- cuts too and bottom. They do need to be heat treated, I tried pretemp but wasn’t hard enough. D-2 at Rc 60-62 work ok so far.
Thanks John

 

[Mark Anderson]

As john said the dies are just top and bottom pieces with a vee groove milled in them. the groove needs to taper to one side so it forms a gentle transition from round to square. On my die, the upper movable plate is in a tube attached to the lower. It has a guide pin that runs in a groove in the tube to keep the upper and lower aligned. It has both 3/16 and 1/4 slots. My press is a 30 ton jack in a custom built frame just for this operation. It was originally built to be able to travel so cables could be squared at the lake for customers.
The gap between the dies will form notches in the square portion if you try to do the squaring in one operation. I roll the cable 90 degrees several times and gradually form the square.

 

[Mark Anderson]

Went out to the shop and took some pictures. This set up around 30 years old.

 

[Mike Betke]

Went out to the shop and took some pictures. This set up around 30 years old.

Mark,
How many ft. pounds is that press and how much does the cable grow in length when you square it off?

 

[Mike Hughes]

Mike it is a 30 ton bottle jack. Not sure what the equates to foot pounds. Check that. Found a coverter. 92578800977.28181 foot pounds
Mike

 

[Mark Anderson]

No idea how much the grow. I would guess 3/16ish. I cut the cable a bit long, square it, then clean up the end and finish to final length.