Bandit - Killer

[GTR]

Hi Jack,

Now you are here I would like to pick you brain. I got a new killer 7.5 tunnel from one of the guy's right here on IW and wondered what you're design philosophy was behind it.

We are all used to Dunlap tunnels here and the Villian of course, but your killer hull is totally different underneath. The steps at the rear should certainly help with the speed but is the rounded edges on the forward part of the sponsons to stop the hull digging in on corners or is it to allow the front to slide so you can power steer.

Any info you can provide would be greatly appreciated including any set-up tips. Unfortunately I didn't get any with the hull and don't even know where to set the static CoG.

Thanks in adavance for your wisdom

GT ;D

 

[Kris Flynn]

Sorry to jump in GT, but i wanted to see what are peoples thoughts (Jack or anyone who has used one) on the 3.5 version? even though it is only 26" is it very good for nitro use?

i have seen a few FE OPC guys using it, but not many nitro guys...

Thanks

Kris

 

[GTR]

Hi Kris,

Thats cool you can jump in - did you know Jack designed that one as well?

I'm sure he would share his wisdom

GT 8)

 

[[email protected]]

GTR,

I'll put a phone call into my buddy Jeff who used to distribute "Bandit" for Dorian here in the USA. He might still have some directions. If not He'll know the CG.

On mine I used a 12oz slant tank, shaped like a tear drop, w/a Precision motor mount. I think I sent you one w/the DPI? Because the cowling is skinny I didn't use a hopper tank so I compensated by putting 12 (1/2 oz lead weights) in the center. And 6 on the right tip of the bottom of the front sponson.

Kris,

What's Up? I race a Bandit 3.5 Killer right now w/a Rossi 3.5 and tuned pipe. The hull can handle it w/no problem and is very fast. You'll be able to convert from electric to nitro w/no problems.

 

[[email protected]]

GTR,

I just remembered on my 7.5 I used a 1 1/2 inch block spacer on the back motor mount to give the motor some clearance form the transom. It handled much better this way than being directly on the transom.

Also, tell Jack Garcia how long your boat is. There are two versions.

 

[Jack Garcia]

GTR, first. let me explain the theory behind the (rounded) inside part of the sponson. well it's not supposed to be rounded, it should be at a 45 degree angle from the inside of the sponson and is supposed to be flat, not rounded. It was easier for Dorrien to manufacture it rounded. I suggest that you sand or file it flat at the 45 degree (be careful not to take too much off, 1/4" flat is sufficiant ) when you blueprint the sponsons. This is my answer to the, what I call "door stops" at the front and sides of almost every other tunnel racing nowadays. My theory is that the 45 degree angle will hold up the front of the boat when the nose drops while navigating a turn. As for the 1/32" step, I felt that thats all we really need. For instance, I saw a 1/8" step on the bottom of Mike Seebolds full size tunnel. I figured if it's good enough for Mike and bill and Tim, it's good enough for me.

I suggest that you use a sharp file to sharpen the step on the Killer. Square and sharp. Keep the inside edges of the sponson sharp as well.

As for the boats that I have designed for Dorrien. There is the 26"mostly for the 3.5 stock class, the 30" I figured would work well in the 3.5 modified class. Then there is the 35" for up to .67 class, the 33" is a shortened version of the 35" with no sponson afterplanes. Jim Irwin tells me that some of his boys are using the 33" in the 3.5 IMPBA modified class.

 

[Jack Garcia]

One thing I forgot to mention GTR, do not set any negative angle (skeg pushed toward the transom,)

more than 1/2 degree. anymore will make the boat plow or in the case of rough conditions, dive. Zero angle is best. It's best for speed as well. If it gets loose or flighty, add some weight.

 

[[email protected]]

GTR,

Jacks theory on no negative angle is dead on! It will plow the boat in the corners.

 

[GTR]

Hi Jack,

My hull measures 33.5 inchs and I can see that the rounded edges probably were 45degree surfaces at some stage. Don't quite understand why he would have molded them round as it would not have been an issue to have an edge where they are. Will take the file too them. I don't ever use negative angle on my tunnels I'd rather add weight or shuffle things around. 0 degrees being the fastest of course. I believe in razor sharp edges. They are harder to maintain though and painting takes a little of the edge off them, but as sharp as I can manage. Always need more info though, thanks.

GT 8)

 

[Jack Garcia]

GTR.

Normally I would blueprint (tune) the sponsons first, then paint, leaving the blueprinted area unpainted.

 

[Jack Garcia]

KRIS, In answer to your question about the 26" Killer. It was meant to be used in the stock class, but I have clamped a mod engine on it with good results in smooth water conditions. However, windy weather plays havoc with any small tunnel. That's why I went with the 30". It's long and wide enough to take the rough conditions.