some slight confusion here,,, the pto pin only,, has to be machined off... the back plate is a standard one,,, no pull start.. you have to use a belt to start it...
bubble volume stated in my last post .17cc with 60% nitro,,, i use technology hobbies fuel by john otto here on the board..beleive his mix has 18% oil,,dont hold me to that number though,,could be slightly higher or lower..regardless,, it is great fuel...
cvr sleeve will not work,,different port configuration.. cvr pull start will not work,,larger in o.d,,plus if your stayin pull start then leave the aqua one..
pull the sleeve,,, wipe it with alky to clean it... take a permenent black marker and color all around the tops and sides of the ports..let it dry up for about 5 mins. then take your dial caliper and set it at .030" gently while riding on the upper side of the port with the lower arm,, scribe a line through the marker with the point on the upper arm of the caliper.. this will give you your .030" that you need to cut... remember to keep the natural shape and angles of the port.. when it comes to the sides of the port you just want to come straight up,,,DO NOT cut the sides out to the scribed lines,,,width of every port stays the same,,you just want to up them,,nothing more...
in the crank case.. look down through the sleeve bore... the rear port (one nearest the pull start) you will see the ledge of aluminum that was just short of being popped out,, you will see the machine just chipped a small piece out.. you need to clean that right out,,again keeping the natural shape.. the front one i just put a nice ramp down into the crank bore..
for the case ports,, i use a small carbide ball mill..for cutting the sleeve i use a small (like 1/16") straight carbide mill...
another thing you can do to used piston and sleeves is take a sharp pipe cutter and just lightly ring the top of the piston just over the hole in the skirt,,, but VERY lightly or its junk, just like that.. that will give you a little tightness in the sleeve..
alden