aeromarine sport 40

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wingnut

Well-Known Member
Joined
Jul 20, 2004
Messages
282
i'm setting up a aeromarine shadow sport 40 for a friend. mac 45, speedmaster hardware all the good stuff. i,m wanting to set it up with a front radio box and hopefully be able to put the tanks close to the c.g. .the stock setup shows a rear box and front tank but it shows on the plans that it requires a large amount of lead to keep it from blowing off the water. thats why i figured the front box.any suggestions?
 
The fuel weighs more than the radio. Setting up the boat with two fuel tanks isnt easy and get good perfomance. Best to use the front fuel tank and get the radio as close as possible to the engine. A little lead wont hurt anything..

PHIL
 
P THOMAS said:
The fuel weighs more than the radio. Setting up the boat with two fuel tanks isnt easy and get good perfomance. Best to use the front fuel tank and get the radio as close as possible to the engine. A little lead wont hurt anything.. PHIL
I'll disagree with this because yes the fuel weighs more, but when the tank is full. Since, if I recall correctly, the Aeromarine sport 40 is an open tub design the front radio box with the fuel tank under the deck on the right side will yield better performance throughout the consumption of fuel during a race since the balance of the boat will be more constant. Go with the front radio box, put a 12oz tank on CG under the right side deck & get the motor as far forward as possible. Don't forget to run a 1oz. hopper tank in front of motor. The Aeromarine sport 40 is tail heavy to start with so this set up should work well. Phil's Supersport 45 works well with either front of rear box but it is a different critter all together ( but a **** good sport 40 hull). B)
 
I'm with Don on this one. Put the radio up front and the fuel to the right of the engine. You might try a lifting prop to get the back up. Don't be afraid to put lead in it. Try to get the c.g. to about an inch behind the sponsons. I like to put any lead needed as far forward on the left side as possible.

Mark
 
thats what i was thinking with the tank under the deck along the c.g. but thereis about a 1 1/2" inch opening to get the tank under the deck. i was thinking of making a tank maybe stainless? but i've never made one before. any hints or tricks to making one?
 
wingnut said:
thats  what i was thinking with the tank under the deck along the c.g. but thereis about a 1 1/2" inch opening to get the tank under the deck. i was thinking of making a tank maybe stainless? but i've never made one before. any hints or tricks to making one?
You should be able to get a Sullivan SO12 slant oval 12oz. tank under the deck as it is only 1 1/2" high. Then use the 1oz. hopper tank right up in front of motor. Here's the links to them Tower-

http://www2.towerhobbies.com/cgi-bin/wti0001p?&I=LXFU59&P=7

http://www2.towerhobbies.com/cgi-bin/wti0001p?&I=LXFU46&P=7

If you want to use a stainless tank, contact Walt Barney (tanks-2-U), give him the dimensions & have him make you one, his tanks are real nice. This will also eliminate the need for the hopper as he makes them inside the tank. Walt is a member here on I/W.
 
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I had an Aeromarine sprot 40 hull a few years back in ran SAW really great but it had problems in the turns. The Graf's out of Evansville, IN had the best luck running the aeromarine hulls but they eventually switched to the Phil Thomas hull as most eventually do.
 
ya there are 4 in the club with thomas boats and i'm sure thats the direction he will go in the future. maybe a mutt 2 but thats a ways in the future. if you can't beat 'em join'em
 
bzubee , if you or the graf's have any setup advice for heat racing it would be greatly appreciated. so far i've made the turn fin and bracket thats slightly larger than stock. the stock fin i thought wasn't worth the money. that's are far as i've got .everything is on order.
 
Wing nut what club is it you run with? Your Areomarine hull will do fine, they are faster set up correctly. Like buzbe says watch the driving in the corners. Dont scream down the straight away and flip it in the turn every time out!

PHIL
 
Phil, the club we belonged to kinda fell apart. were just a group of guys that race in district 9. i agree with you about watcing the corners and not blowing off on the straights. it's going to be my friends first boat. he's driven some of mine and he's a pretty good driver. i'm sure he will get the hang of racing because we race cars on a weekly basis. my first goal is to give him something reliable because to me if you are able to finish every race you'll do pretty well .
 
One of the better improvments in the turn fin area was one made by David Preusse you can get one from his dad Gary at 630-279-2451 it's G&M Models I found for Phil Hulls Dick Tyndall makes a real good turn fin.
 
I ran one of those boats for one season. It was set up as per Aeromarine's specs except the turn fin. She had no trouble getting the rear end off the water. You definately need some lead in the left sponson or she will roll right over if you use any left rudder. I think I had about 12 oz in there. I used a Dick Tyndall fin. It looked like a rigger fin but had a special right-angle bracket to go on the back of the sponson. That fin worked like a charm. The boat was fun to run but had a hard time competing against the Thomas hull.
 

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