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hugh hargett

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Anyone got any attemps to share?Some devices im considering.
 
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I know some have used a gyro and servo to control a canard and others have used a servo only on a control channel. There are not too many other options that I'm aware of.

Thanks you have some nice boats I see. In this 1990 circus I have two sevos one for each flap .Im using a basic stamp homework board to control it. I have 2 buttons one for up one for down. My intention is to try an xyz instead of the typical gyro and actually be able to try some chine walk algorithm,as well as anti-blowover and of course cornering.I think I understand the rc gyro but there are two types which one would be best suited.The arms are rigid I didnt use flex clevises I used straight rod with ball joints.what I want is something that will take my stick input so I can set a good attitude at the onstart of my run for the REAL conditions at the time. Then something that can sesne derivation from those settings and bring it back until it comparison to the register base setting is congruent. Im not using a ppm or pcm radio so that motivated me to pull out the pic board but before I do too much I wanted to see what the rc servos would do.Can anyone help me?Not to be offtopic but I see youre a true scale fan . The Madison story was on today. Thats a good movie I love scales. I just cant believe it been tha long since they won. Id love to work on a team like that. I think they should have a vintage class In the real boats today. I like turbines but it kinda kills the privateer racer unless hes filthy $$$$$$$.My dad's always trying to Get me to build a real one.DREAMS
 
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Hey Hugh! Hydroplane racing has ALWAYS been a rich mans sport. In fact, they say the best way to make a small fortune boat racing is to start out with a large one! Anyway, about the canard - I once helped a friend build a Bubble Bud with r/c canard flaps. We used a rate gyro from a helicopter & a Nautical Commander 3-channel radio. The neutral position was controlled by the third stick, as you say, and the gyro took over from there. It would sense a change in incidence, make a correction & then return to neutral. It worked great! I'm sure there is more sophisticated tech out there today & it sounds like you've got a grip on all that. However, you might want to prepare for a little grief from some of us old-timers about the cost and a serious deviation from the KISS method! Don't forget to increase your battery capacity for the extra electronics. Btw, if I remember right, we used a separate on/off switch for the gyro just in case.

I enjoyed the Madison flick too but they did take a lot of free license with the story. You should try to track down a copy of the actual race - it was just as good! I don't know if you're aware of it, but the Hydroplane and Raceboat Museum does run a fleet of restored and replica boats. They are usually at the Tri-Cities race in July, Lake Coeur d'Alene in August and Lake Chelan the first weekend in October! Check out thunderboats.org.

One more thing, Hugh - the Madison boat has notched quite a few wins since the 1971 Gold Cup. The current repeat High-points Champion Oh Boy Oberto, with the crew headed up by Mike & Larry Hansen & driven by Steve David IS the Madison boat! Gotta love those guys & the City of Madison. Most of all, hats off to Art and Larry Oberto & their families for their unwavering support!

Larry K
 
Hello everybody .

This is a reply from Australia . Some time back in the now defunct RC Boat Modeller there was a write up abot a boat I believe was called Star Wars . I haven't seen the book for a while , but I know it's here and the front flaps were operated by a servo .

Regards

Ian Baas

Tall Fella Racing

Australia :)
 
I remember that boat, was a Dumas Miller kit converted to an 86 Miller American with the hard framed canopy. The guy had a power lift canopy and had servo controlled the canard and horizontal stabilizer. There might have been more going on that I don't remember but my thought was "All that trick stuff will be garbage if that boat goes over". Come to think about it, I don't remember the guy ever saying how it ran or if he even had run it.
Interesting. You got a link to the correct style gyro.? I think the rc gyro could still be used with the PIC Chip . If the rc gyro is fast enough to handle the duties placed upon it no need to reinvent the wheel Ill use one. One question that comes to mind is the location of the gyro. Ive seen most with it in the nose but shouldnt it be where the cg is;2-3 inches aft of the sponsons trailing edge? Cockpit amendments would be nice too In fact I think servo power would actually be a great way to keep a folding canopy sealed with out using sealing tape.I have been considering that.
 
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Hello everybody .

This is a reply from Australia . Some time back in the now defunct RC Boat Modeller there was a write up abot a boat I believe was called Star Wars . I haven't seen the book for a while , but I know it's here and the front flaps were operated by a servo .

Regards

Ian Baas

Tall Fella Racing

Australia :)
Thanks Ian!
 
I use a servo to control the canards on the smokin joes.... basicly it holds them in the up position when running to aid in holding the front of the boat down. I flip the switch when coming in or when in the pits so they are then flat....

med_gallery_128_798_21176.jpg


Canards up...

med_gallery_128_798_74115.jpg


Canards down or neutral....

med_gallery_128_798_47080.jpg


med_gallery_128_798_201266.jpg
 
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I use a servo to control the canards on the smokin joes.... basicly it holds them in the up position when running to aid in holding the front of the boat down. I flip the switch when coming in or when in the pits so they are then flat....

med_gallery_128_798_21176.jpg


Canards up...

med_gallery_128_798_74115.jpg


Canards down or neutral....

med_gallery_128_798_47080.jpg


med_gallery_128_798_201266.jpg
Yes the linkage is quite similar . Beautiful scale my friend.
 
a long while back, a company called SubTech ( Skip Assay) had a device for leveling submarines etc here is the catalogue spiel, never tried it, but thought it would be a cool idea to try on a hydro, I run earlier style hydros so was thinking of creating a couple of spoilers inside the tunnel normal they would be straight to the air flow, closed it would create a spoiler and perhaps vent excess air out through the airtraps, say if the nose started to rise too much then trapped air would be bled off... just a thought..

SubTech - AL5 Auto Leveller (Pitch Controller)

An absolute must for any R/C model Sub!

The AL5 is designed for R/C model submarines and is an on-board system which will automatically keep your sub on an even keel when submerged. Connected between the receiver and the stern planes servo, the AL5 senses the slightest change in the boat's angle and proportionally moves the stern planes to compensate.

While it's difficult to improve an automatic leveling control that already does what it's supposed to do - keep a submerged submarine level while under way - SubTech have done it! Based on 25 years of "hands on" research and development, AL5 is arguably the best there is.

This really is a must for anyone building an R/C Submarine. Acting on the rear planes the unit constantly helps keep the model level along its length when it is underway and under water and stops your sub from porpoising like a dolphin, all in one self contained unit. If you have never used an auto leveller before, it has to be seen to be believed!!

The latest generation of level controls is here! Absolutely maintenance free and measuring only .75" X 1.1" X 0.3" (28mm x 19mm x 8mm) this makes this AL5 one of the smallest and the most capable user friendly automatic leveling controls available. The small size allows installation in even the smallest boats, or the tightest compartments.

AL5 features an incredibly sensitive solid state sensor capable of detecting the smallest angle changes and provide smooth and precise servo movement and there's no sensor fluid to leak out and no moving parts to worry about!

Simple plug & play installation and intuitive adjustment allows you to fine-tune your boat to meet your own boat's needs, variable sensitivity (the most sensitivity is not the best sensitivity - this is where SubTechs experience tells the tale), and it's able to "stand alone" (no signal input required), so you don't have to waste a channel unnecessarily.

And at the Super Low Price of just: USD $39.95
 
My canards are active on my US-1 Pico american 1996 hull

It is so simple. it runs off the steering servo So in Straights the canard is up and in corners it goes flat. No extra equipment just a right angle servo horn and a pushrod

See the photo

Brian

radiobox.jpg
 
My canards are active on my US-1 Pico american 1996 hull

It is so simple. it runs off the steering servo So in Straights the canard is up and in corners it goes flat. No extra equipment just a right angle servo horn and a pushrod

See the photo

Brian

Now that's slick right there!!

Very viable solution.....smart.

Thanks for sharing Brian.
 
If I remember correctly Roger Newton had a Gyro system in his 1/8 scale and it worked very well until he hit a bouie with it... :eek: You guys ever thought of having the rear wing move too?..
 
My canards are active on my US-1 Pico american 1996 hull

It is so simple. it runs off the steering servo So in Straights the canard is up and in corners it goes flat. No extra equipment just a right angle servo horn and a pushrod

See the photo

Brian
Not to be a smartie but you actually want downforce in the corners and less in the sraight. Extremely nice setup though.
 
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If I remember correctly Roger Newton had a Gyro system in his 1/8 scale and it worked very well until he hit a bouie with it... :eek: You guys ever thought of having the rear wing move too?..
It could be a hassle hes correct, but you dont have to have linkage the servo could be IN the wing itself and its purpose would be to keep it from blowing over thus not damaging the wings. Even with linkage you could use snap in ball joints that will break free. A wrecked scale lets not evene talk about it sends chills up my spine.
 
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Hi hugh. I disagree with your assertion. The time when u need flaps up is at highest speed... ie the straightaways. . In the corners i want to slide thru, not stuff the nose. so flaps go flat.

Now, you may say that the boat should be set up to ride at top speed w no flaps and only use them when the boat is lifting, in wind or rollers, like the real boats. This requires instantaneous action; a real man driving a real boat, or a gyro setup that is fast. In a perfect model this would be the ideal. But my setup does exactly what I want, and few people can beat that boat consistently.

Brian
 
Hi hugh. I disagree with your assertion. The time when u need flaps up is at highest speed... ie the straightaways. . In the corners i want to slide thru, not stuff the nose. so flaps go flat.

Now, you may say that the boat should be set up to ride at top speed w no flaps and only use them when the boat is lifting, in wind or rollers, like the real boats. This requires instantaneous action; a real man driving a real boat, or a gyro setup that is fast. In a perfect model this would be the ideal. But my setup does exactly what I want, and few people can beat that boat consistently.

Brian
yes they need a base downdorce in the straights but in the corners down force help the sponsons stay flat . You want some downforce at ALL times but in the straights just enough to keep her from blowing over you dont want the front sponsons digging in the water when you are trying to go your fastest (IN THE STRAIGHTS

Someone show me the correct style of gyro.
 
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