H
hugh hargett
Guest
Anyone got any attemps to share?Some devices im considering.
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I know some have used a gyro and servo to control a canard and others have used a servo only on a control channel. There are not too many other options that I'm aware of.
Thanks you have some nice boats I see. In this 1990 circus I have two sevos one for each flap .Im using a basic stamp homework board to control it. I have 2 buttons one for up one for down. My intention is to try an xyz instead of the typical gyro and actually be able to try some chine walk algorithm,as well as anti-blowover and of course cornering.I think I understand the rc gyro but there are two types which one would be best suited.The arms are rigid I didnt use flex clevises I used straight rod with ball joints.what I want is something that will take my stick input so I can set a good attitude at the onstart of my run for the REAL conditions at the time. Then something that can sesne derivation from those settings and bring it back until it comparison to the register base setting is congruent. Im not using a ppm or pcm radio so that motivated me to pull out the pic board but before I do too much I wanted to see what the rc servos would do.Can anyone help me?Not to be offtopic but I see youre a true scale fan . The Madison story was on today. Thats a good movie I love scales. I just cant believe it been tha long since they won. Id love to work on a team like that. I think they should have a vintage class In the real boats today. I like turbines but it kinda kills the privateer racer unless hes filthy $$$$$$$.My dad's always trying to Get me to build a real one.DREAMS
Interesting. You got a link to the correct style gyro.? I think the rc gyro could still be used with the PIC Chip . If the rc gyro is fast enough to handle the duties placed upon it no need to reinvent the wheel Ill use one. One question that comes to mind is the location of the gyro. Ive seen most with it in the nose but shouldnt it be where the cg is;2-3 inches aft of the sponsons trailing edge? Cockpit amendments would be nice too In fact I think servo power would actually be a great way to keep a folding canopy sealed with out using sealing tape.I have been considering that.I remember that boat, was a Dumas Miller kit converted to an 86 Miller American with the hard framed canopy. The guy had a power lift canopy and had servo controlled the canard and horizontal stabilizer. There might have been more going on that I don't remember but my thought was "All that trick stuff will be garbage if that boat goes over". Come to think about it, I don't remember the guy ever saying how it ran or if he even had run it.
Thanks Ian!Hello everybody .
This is a reply from Australia . Some time back in the now defunct RC Boat Modeller there was a write up abot a boat I believe was called Star Wars . I haven't seen the book for a while , but I know it's here and the front flaps were operated by a servo .
Regards
Ian Baas
Tall Fella Racing
Australia
Yes the linkage is quite similar . Beautiful scale my friend.I use a servo to control the canards on the smokin joes.... basicly it holds them in the up position when running to aid in holding the front of the boat down. I flip the switch when coming in or when in the pits so they are then flat....
Canards up...
Canards down or neutral....
My canards are active on my US-1 Pico american 1996 hull
It is so simple. it runs off the steering servo So in Straights the canard is up and in corners it goes flat. No extra equipment just a right angle servo horn and a pushrod
See the photo
Brian
Not to be a smartie but you actually want downforce in the corners and less in the sraight. Extremely nice setup though.My canards are active on my US-1 Pico american 1996 hull
It is so simple. it runs off the steering servo So in Straights the canard is up and in corners it goes flat. No extra equipment just a right angle servo horn and a pushrod
See the photo
Brian
It could be a hassle hes correct, but you dont have to have linkage the servo could be IN the wing itself and its purpose would be to keep it from blowing over thus not damaging the wings. Even with linkage you could use snap in ball joints that will break free. A wrecked scale lets not evene talk about it sends chills up my spine.If I remember correctly Roger Newton had a Gyro system in his 1/8 scale and it worked very well until he hit a bouie with it... You guys ever thought of having the rear wing move too?..
yes they need a base downdorce in the straights but in the corners down force help the sponsons stay flat . You want some downforce at ALL times but in the straights just enough to keep her from blowing over you dont want the front sponsons digging in the water when you are trying to go your fastest (IN THE STRAIGHTSHi hugh. I disagree with your assertion. The time when u need flaps up is at highest speed... ie the straightaways. . In the corners i want to slide thru, not stuff the nose. so flaps go flat.
Now, you may say that the boat should be set up to ride at top speed w no flaps and only use them when the boat is lifting, in wind or rollers, like the real boats. This requires instantaneous action; a real man driving a real boat, or a gyro setup that is fast. In a perfect model this would be the ideal. But my setup does exactly what I want, and few people can beat that boat consistently.
Brian
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