I'm in your guys dist D4.. will start to racethis year , maybe 3-4 races..I know sport40 is very competitive..any advice on the ac hull setup? I'm repairing one and if any mods needs to been done on this hull please telll me...
Welcome to D4. On the AC hull, as DUCK899 said, use a larger turn fin to keep it on the water in the turn. Set the strut with 2-3 degrees neg angle. This keeps the nosse from coming up. But this you have to work with because each hull has there own likes. I run mine with slightly less neg, than Brian does to get the same performance. His is faster through the turns and mine has a little more speed in the straight. I still have driver issues with mine or it probibly would run better
thanks .well as it looks we will have 3 sport40 in our boat collection.. two dumas eagles and the A/C ...my boyfriend is run one of them... got to get two more .45's then as it looks.. picking up a rossi.45 for my eagle...
And I thnk its the older version gold head hydro motor.
That may be....but one thing about Andy's boats and if you know Andy, he builds boats to last. Also, they are gelcoated and heavier in that regard, but you don't need to add a 1/2 lb of primer and filler to fill the glass screen door surface like you do on an epoxy hull. Andy's Pro 40 can be run as is with no paint at all. Just throw a few stickers on it and go.....I can see this topic came off my remark, AC boats are some of the finest hull's on the market, Barr-Nun, although weight may not be an issue, that hull is a little over built, although it may not be an issue One might say it's a over built hull, it's a great hull no doubt, but you cant say it's not heavy compared to other's?? I am not bashing this hull at all it's to each there own's opinion!!
Thought I'd toss my 2 cents in. I would perfer a heavier hull over a lighter version of the same hull and I'm basing that on longevity of the model in a model racing enviroment. Boats are going to hit each other, it happens.
While I agree with most of what your saying... As long as the "rookie" is holding their lane and not driving erratically, it is up to the more experienced racer to make a clean pass without hitting their boat. If you can't make a clean pass wait until the opportunity presents itself. Having raced motorcycles for years, the rookies have a tendancy to stay on the inside line because they feel more comfortable there. It is up to the faster drivers to make a clean/safe pass. Same applies with model boat racing. While the more experience racer may want the faster line, having to navigate slower drivers is part of racing.
I got the A/C pro 2 hull...I need a cowl for it thow..We got most of it back together..I can post pics what it looked like after it was wrecked...Since most of you guys are sport40's,whats the adverage weight on them?.. Hj Driftwood club setup the race corse aweek or two before the races.. So we can do practice runs to get a good feel of the race corse..That may be....but one thing about Andy's boats and if you know Andy, he builds boats to last. Also, they are gelcoated and heavier in that regard, but you don't need to add a 1/2 lb of primer and filler to fill the glass screen door surface like you do on an epoxy hull. Andy's Pro 40 can be run as is with no paint at all. Just throw a few stickers on it and go.....I can see this topic came off my remark, AC boats are some of the finest hull's on the market, Barr-Nun, although weight may not be an issue, that hull is a little over built, although it may not be an issue One might say it's a over built hull, it's a great hull no doubt, but you cant say it's not heavy compared to other's?? I am not bashing this hull at all it's to each there own's opinion!!
The original question was if anyone had ran an AC pro 40. There are lots of people who have. The first hulls were plagued with launching issues because of the original bottom design which was a Fisher bottom. That hull could handle more power because of the steps and lack of sponson running surface which also allowed the hull to settle in the corners quicker. This contributed to the hard launching because the small ride surfaces caused the nose to go under water. Once up on plane, things were fine. The remedy is to move the drive dog to the allowable legal limit ( 1 drive dog length behind the transom) and get the prop ears from under the hull.
The newer Pro 40 II hull was modified on the front sponson riding surfaces and filled in with larger surfaces to allow easier launching but with that the hull is more prone to riding lighter and thus blowing over relative to the older hull.
Andy's philosophy has always been to design a boat which will work for the novice to the experienced racer.
My last Pro 40 had a Mac 45 turning a pitched up X-646/3 with the pipe at 10-1/8" and ran well. It was the older original Pro 40 design and was 14 years old....built to last.
Pro 40 I
Pro 40 II
..Found out from a friend that were D 2 dam... Somebody told me I was in D 4..I live in the Celina St'Marys area.=northwest central part of Ohio...I dont know if he's wright or not.. How can I find out for sure?
here is mine.. the pic is when the guy just recked it..its almost fixed...from the pics the fuel tank is at the very front were the rubber band is at..that must of held the tank in place...hull the back part almost mid ship is the radio box with lid on it ..behind that is the adjustable strut area..proubley the other guys with everything in there a/c will post pics of theres insides setup..
Here is the inside of the Mutt sport 40....
Robert Pickard M@M Racing on here had an AC cowl for sale awhile back, give him a tryI got the A/C pro 2 hull...I need a cowl for it thow..We got most of it back together..I can post pics what it looked like after it was wrecked...Since most of you guys are sport40's,whats the adverage weight on them?.. Hj Driftwood club setup the race corse aweek or two before the races.. So we can do practice runs to get a good feel of the race corse..That may be....but one thing about Andy's boats and if you know Andy, he builds boats to last. Also, they are gelcoated and heavier in that regard, but you don't need to add a 1/2 lb of primer and filler to fill the glass screen door surface like you do on an epoxy hull. Andy's Pro 40 can be run as is with no paint at all. Just throw a few stickers on it and go.....I can see this topic came off my remark, AC boats are some of the finest hull's on the market, Barr-Nun, although weight may not be an issue, that hull is a little over built, although it may not be an issue One might say it's a over built hull, it's a great hull no doubt, but you cant say it's not heavy compared to other's?? I am not bashing this hull at all it's to each there own's opinion!!
The original question was if anyone had ran an AC pro 40. There are lots of people who have. The first hulls were plagued with launching issues because of the original bottom design which was a Fisher bottom. That hull could handle more power because of the steps and lack of sponson running surface which also allowed the hull to settle in the corners quicker. This contributed to the hard launching because the small ride surfaces caused the nose to go under water. Once up on plane, things were fine. The remedy is to move the drive dog to the allowable legal limit ( 1 drive dog length behind the transom) and get the prop ears from under the hull.
The newer Pro 40 II hull was modified on the front sponson riding surfaces and filled in with larger surfaces to allow easier launching but with that the hull is more prone to riding lighter and thus blowing over relative to the older hull.
Andy's philosophy has always been to design a boat which will work for the novice to the experienced racer.
My last Pro 40 had a Mac 45 turning a pitched up X-646/3 with the pipe at 10-1/8" and ran well. It was the older original Pro 40 design and was 14 years old....built to last.
Pro 40 I
Pro 40 II
ya i know. about it... each time i have the money .. somthing like bills keep poping up on me..plus i'm trying to get two motors for my boats.. one for my .21 rigger and the other is a.45 for my eagle..im going to talk to him about the cowl..Robert Pickard M@M Racing on here had an AC cowl for sale awhile back, give him a tryI got the A/C pro 2 hull...I need a cowl for it thow..We got most of it back together..I can post pics what it looked like after it was wrecked...Since most of you guys are sport40's,whats the adverage weight on them?.. Hj Driftwood club setup the race corse aweek or two before the races.. So we can do practice runs to get a good feel of the race corse..That may be....but one thing about Andy's boats and if you know Andy, he builds boats to last. Also, they are gelcoated and heavier in that regard, but you don't need to add a 1/2 lb of primer and filler to fill the glass screen door surface like you do on an epoxy hull. Andy's Pro 40 can be run as is with no paint at all. Just throw a few stickers on it and go.....I can see this topic came off my remark, AC boats are some of the finest hull's on the market, Barr-Nun, although weight may not be an issue, that hull is a little over built, although it may not be an issue One might say it's a over built hull, it's a great hull no doubt, but you cant say it's not heavy compared to other's?? I am not bashing this hull at all it's to each there own's opinion!!
The original question was if anyone had ran an AC pro 40. There are lots of people who have. The first hulls were plagued with launching issues because of the original bottom design which was a Fisher bottom. That hull could handle more power because of the steps and lack of sponson running surface which also allowed the hull to settle in the corners quicker. This contributed to the hard launching because the small ride surfaces caused the nose to go under water. Once up on plane, things were fine. The remedy is to move the drive dog to the allowable legal limit ( 1 drive dog length behind the transom) and get the prop ears from under the hull.
The newer Pro 40 II hull was modified on the front sponson riding surfaces and filled in with larger surfaces to allow easier launching but with that the hull is more prone to riding lighter and thus blowing over relative to the older hull.
Andy's philosophy has always been to design a boat which will work for the novice to the experienced racer.
My last Pro 40 had a Mac 45 turning a pitched up X-646/3 with the pipe at 10-1/8" and ran well. It was the older original Pro 40 design and was 14 years old....built to last.
Pro 40 I
Pro 40 II
