'88 Miller Highlife 1/8 Scale in the works

[poolschool]

Hi Guys,

Trying to break new ground into 1/8 scale boats. I have acquired a set of Roger Newton plans for the 1988 Miller Highlife. I love the look of these boats and enjoy scratch building. I have a love for tunnels as well. Just thought I'd add some pictures.

Here we go - some interesting stuff, the building jig - photo taken with my number 1 helper.

 

[poolschool]

Frames painstakingly cut out

 

[poolschool]

Started to put it all together

 

[poolschool]

Just about all framed up!

Just a few questions as I am unsure of a few things before I continue. Any help will be greatly appreciated. Thanks in advance.

1. Should I use a canard spar? If so what size aluminium "pipe"?

2. What sort of strut/rudder and what size?

3. Position and angle of rudder and strut on transom?

4. What type and the best place to put the turn fin.

5. What size dia and how long should the stuffing tube be?

6. Solid or flex drive shaft?

7. Radio box position

8. Fuel tank position

9. Motor mount position, just behind sponsons?

Sorry about ALL the questions.

Any pictures would be greatly appreciated.

Thanks

Gino

 

[PondSkimmer]

check out this link it is the circus boat but very similar:

http://www.geocities.com/reefpics2002/nitroboatcrazy1

 

[Shnick]

poolschool, the webpage Pondskimmer put up is mine, im finished with the Circus, and the webpage has been put on the back burner for a while...

I will however do my best to answer your questions...

first off, don't buy the dumas hardware kit. This kit came out over a decade ago and there have been vast improvements in hardware technology since then...

1. Should I use a canard spar? If so what size aluminium "pipe"?

Yes, it provides better control - "pipe" is 3/8" aluminum available at yout LHS

 

[Shnick]

2. What sort of strut/rudder and what size?

http://www.rossisales.com/ruddernew2.html - .60/90 Rudder Assembly http://www.rossisales.com/strut.html - VM4 Strut Round .250 Cable 1/4"

 

[Shnick]

3. Position and angle of rudder and strut on transom?

Strut is offset 1/4" to the right of center, front of strut is 13/16" from bottom of hull - i had to modify mine to fit under the rear deck - see pic start off with 2-3 degree up angle...Rudder blade is approx 1 7/8" left of center, start off with no angle

 

[Shnick]

4. What type and the best place to put the turn fin.

.05" Aluminum is what came with mine, make it sharp... very sharp... stick it where the picture shows, it extends below the sponson 1 3/4" i put the blind nuts in and covered them with electrical tape and epoxied over the tape... guaranteed water tight...

 

[Shnick]

as long as were in the same location, water pick-up should be mounted on the rear of the right sponson, just barely sticking below the bottom of the sponson. install it too low and it'll drag on the water - that is bad

 

[Shnick]

5. What size dia and how long should the stuffing tube be?

one size up from your teflon lined flex cable tube, run a piece NOT BENT through frame 8 and 9, then through the bottom of the hull right behind the radio box - this will allow you to replace flex cable tube easily. scuff it with rough sandpaper or better yet a file before you epoxy it into place to lock it in good...

 

[Shnick]

6. Solid or flex drive shaft?

Plan on running a 1/4" flex cable from aeromarine laminates or speedmaster. It is stepped down to 3/16" to let me run a wider selection of props. my plans and kit called for a 3/16" cable/ferrule, and stub shaft, but i think a 1/4"flex cable with stub shaft welded on is more reliable and and longer lasting.

 

[Shnick]

7. Radio box position

In between frames 8 and 9 - height is limited, so think ahead!! Its also a good idea to install the heavy ¼ scale servo inside the deck on the left side. in the photo i had an Expert SL 820, but i had twitches with that servo, niether my LHS or manufacturer were willing to swap it out... screw 'em... i went with a Futaba

 

[Shnick]

8. Fuel tank position

In the drivers cockpit, sullivan 12 or 14 oz. fits nicely in between the frame cut-outs. I framed mine in to prevent movement during cartwheels, loopdy-loops, and other aerobatic manuevers...

 

[Shnick]

9. Motor mount position, just behind sponsons?

Motor is centered 6" back from leading edge of sponson...

make sure you install blind nuts to hold motor mounts before you install the deck - (fit-up engine in frame to give you the appropriate angle and then you can also install stuffing tube)

 

[Shnick]

Another cool thing i did was to install a screen in the cowl mainly for looks, but it might keep a litle water out as well...

i got the material from Target or walmart, i forget... little office supply cups made of fine expanded metal (aluminum) $3.99 i think, cut it apart and lay it flat, cut out shape desired, and zap in place...

Any other questions??? bring 'em on!!!

Happy building - Shnick

 

[poolschool]

Thanks pondskimmer for the link.

Hey Schnick, thanks a heap for the replies and the photos, great! Will be a big help in the build-up.

Boat progress at the moment is zero. Am waiting on a cowl so that I can shape the nose of the boat to suit.

Also getting some great help from Dan Kramer over on the Rcboat forum.

Thanks guys and will keep you posted.

 

[Shnick]

Couple more things... after looking at the stuffing tube, it IS curved where it goes through the radio compartment... my mistake...

Remy at aeromarinerc.com may have the cowl you're looking for...

#202 1/8th Scale Miller American Replacement Hatch $59.95

Shnick