Blazer Lauterbach Build Thread

Advertise with us
Shop deals on ebay
shop deals on amazon
Intlwaters

Help Support Intlwaters:

This site may earn a commission from merchant affiliate links, including eBay, Amazon, and others.
I can't seem to find pics anywhere. I had a bunch on a digital camera and it's battery is toast. I really wanted to show how the fake motor went over the real one. It looked awsome although it was illegal under the current IMPBA 6 scale rules. The real challenge was converting from a drop sponson to conventional round nose.
 
Wesleys Custom Graphics said:
I can't seem to find pics anywhere. I had a bunch on a digital camera and it's battery is toast. I really wanted to show how the fake motor went over the real one. It looked awsome although it was illegal under the current IMPBA 6 scale rules. The real challenge was converting from a drop sponson to conventional round nose.
Click to expand...
Wesleys Custom Graphics said:
Drop sponson to conventional round nose would be a big challenge! I assume you had to remake bulkheads 4-8.
Click to expand...
 
Wes
No you’re not
Took me 2 hours searching my pics
beautiful Madison
I also have pic of your wrecked Lauterbach you sent me years ago
 
WOW you guys have had and do have some beautiful boats.
Yes I had a great time and spent some Ducks at the RC Swap Meet. (Mostly RC Air)
got myself some wall art too.
will post um up tonight my thread.
Still gathering Hardware.
C.
 
Ok, well in between some activities the last few days, I was able to get the decks trimmed, and further trim the hatches so they fit nicely. I had left the hatch decking a little wide and a little long to allow for some final tweaking. I have a little bit left to do on that but they are back in the boat. While I was trimming (sanding) the inside of the decks, I made the mistake of sanding up and down vs front to back a couple times, and as you can see I got some chip out on my veneer. The larger area came off in one piece and fits in there like a jigsaw puzzle. The tiny one flew off somewhere and I couldn’t find it so I’ve made a piece that fits in there. I’ll just mix a small amount of epoxy and glue those back in. I’ll apply the glue, wipe any excess, put wax paper over, and then clamp down with some scrap ply. That should make the repair pretty seamless. On to the cowls. You can see in the first pic that the cowls need trimming to fit right. I taped together 4 sheets of 80
Grit and then taped them down over the hatches and just moved the cowl pieces back and forth until the bottoms matched the hatches . This worked REALLY well.
9DB7F772-2D87-4118-A36A-8EF5040B16EC.jpegB5BC694B-FE2E-4F0B-AB83-E738614A8181.jpeg32C2FD9D-9C18-4508-BFCC-2EC38E6314A5.jpeg092B6ACE-D58F-431E-8D98-09839DD6A598.jpeg7D3706BE-B83A-4D7D-BFD1-167E8556757F.jpeg91414231-6168-4A92-83F3-2EC3C2E93935.jpeg
 
This is probably the most time consuming part getting the hatch to fit properly then if your using magnets or hold downs making the the split to over lap properly but when it’s all done worth the time spent
 
Roxyflash said:
This is probably the most time consuming part getting the hatch to fit properly then if your using magnets or hold downs making the the split to over lap properly but when it’s all done worth the time spent
Click to expand...
The good news is that the the magnets for the front and pins for the rear are already in. But I hear what you are saying I have already spent alot of hours on the hatches
 
That's pretty much the way I do it. I first take a marker with a 1/4" spacer and move the 1/4" spacer along the deck while marking the cowl. I do use the sand paper in a similar fashion but I hold the cowl in position and move the sand paper. You might want to put tape or something on the deck to keep it from scratching. After the cowl is fit I then trim about 1/8" off of the front section of the cowl from the bulkhead to the bow to allow fresh air to enter the hull. I also cut out the cockpit area before I glue down both cowls to let the hot air escape. This the way I do it and is just a suggestion.
 
Bob Blazer said:
That's pretty much the way I do it. I first take a marker with a 1/4" spacer and move the 1/4" spacer along the deck while marking the cowl. I do use the sand paper in a similar fashion but I hold the cowl in position and move the sand paper. You might want to put tape or something on the deck to keep it from scratching. After the cowl is fit I then trim about 1/8" off of the front section of the cowl from the bulkhead to the bow to allow fresh air to enter the hull. I also cut out the cockpit area before I glue down both cowls to let the hot air escape. This the way I do it and is just a suggestion.
Click to expand...
Yeah what I did was tape 4 pieces from the back in succession making one big piece and then folded small pieces of tape over on itself and stuck around the perimeter of the back as well. Then I turn over and stick down. If I weren’t using veneer I probably would have used spray adhesive. Can you show me a pic of what you mean by the 1/8” from bulkhead to bow? You mean another 1/8” off the bottom? Lippy actually does this just on the part that extends past the hatch in the front.
 
He may basically be saying don't make the cowl fit tight all the way around. But, carefully cut small sections out to allow air in under the cowl. 1/8" would be nice. Except possibly too obvious. I would add that you might still want the front of the cowl to fit tight. Because any water on the deck is going to try and find it's way under the front of the cowl.
Ken
 

Similar threads

nicholashansen
My first RC boat build, modern day 1/8 scale brushless Hydro! WOO HOO!
Replies
13
Views
7K
nicholashansen
nicholashansen
Mike Luszcz
  • Locked
ML Boatworks GP Series Sport Hydros, Version 2 build threads
Replies
13
Views
1K
Bert Dygert
Bert Dygert

Latest posts

Back
Top