hull finishing

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john schultheis

Well-Known Member
Joined
Sep 16, 2011
Messages
708
i'm building a jae 21 could anyone please tell me a quick and easy way to seal the hull inside and out thanks for any help
 
thin epoxy or epoxy finishing resin. brush it on, let it soak in, then wipe off with a rag.
 
I have been using Klass Kote #405 and #40 seals great sands great but if your just doing one boat your going to have alot left over for your next boat. after shipping it's about $80 bucks

The epoxy resin works great to and cheaper
 
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I have been using Klass Kote #405 and #40 seals great sands great but if your just doing one boat your going to have alot left over for your next boat. after shipping it's about $80 bucks

The epoxy resin works great to and cheaper
No wonder we had proublems painting Ron Olson hull and Mikes hull!!!!!!!! That stuff Sucks A***!!!!! Our Paint Made that Epoxy lift!!!!! John,use westsystem or areomarine ,mass, or max...Where going to try out MAX thats on ebay.. Joe talked to the tec inventor of max..Found out he developed bob smith industries epoxys and kemlock epoxys and fuser epoxy..
 
Miss H,. Klass Kote is awesome stuff... People have been using it for ages....
 
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I have been using Klass Kote #405 and #40 seals great sands great but if your just doing one boat your going to have alot left over for your next boat. after shipping it's about $80 bucks

The epoxy resin works great to and cheaper
No wonder we had proublems painting Ron Olson hull and Mikes hull!!!!!!!! That stuff Sucks A***!!!!! Our Paint Made that Epoxy lift!!!!! John,use westsystem or areomarine ,mass, or max...Where going to try out MAX thats on ebay.. Joe talked to the tec inventor of max..Found out he developed bob smith industries epoxys and kemlock epoxys and fuser epoxy..
I don't know what the hell you did but I have never seen any thing lift it
 
I have been using Klass Kote #405 and #40 seals great sands great but if your just doing one boat your going to have alot left over for your next boat. after shipping it's about $80 bucks

The epoxy resin works great to and cheaper
No wonder we had proublems painting Ron Olson hull and Mikes hull!!!!!!!! That stuff Sucks A***!!!!! Our Paint Made that Epoxy lift!!!!! John,use westsystem or areomarine ,mass, or max...Where going to try out MAX thats on ebay.. Joe talked to the tec inventor of max..Found out he developed bob smith industries epoxys and kemlock epoxys and fuser epoxy..
I don't know what the hell you did but I have never seen any thing lift it
BEEN using NASON BASE COAT CLEAR COAT SYSTEM....On my light weight riggers are done with aeromarine epoxy system..did the same prosses with no proublems.! Oh Chris I rather use the automotive paints!! At least I have tons of color choices to chose from unlike Klass Kote that only has a limimted soild and clear colors to chose from..
 
I have been using Klass Kote #405 and #40 seals great sands great but if your just doing one boat your going to have alot left over for your next boat. after shipping it's about $80 bucks
just to clarify here:Klass Kote #405 is side-B Gloss catalyst, epoxy paint

Klass Kote #40 is side-A Clear, epoxy paint

You're essentially applying Klass Kote clear epoxy paint to raw un-finished wood (to seal complete hull), maybe two coats, then sanding smooth?

Are you then using Klass Kote primer (white #55, for example), plus Primer Catalyst (white fast #420, for example), over sections that you wish to color finish? Then applying Klass Kote Color side-A epoxy paint, combined with Gloss Catalyst (#405, for example), using sprayer?

Trying to decipher whether finishing epoxy glue (West Systems #105, for example) is better used as a wood sealer as opposed to Klass Kote clear epoxy paint?
 
I have been brushing on one coat of West Systems epoxy, sanding with 220, then 320, and then spraying two coats of Klass Kote clear. Then i wet sand the Klass Kote clear with 320. Very nice surface, and very water proof. If painting colors, just prime the areas you are going to paint, after sanding the Klass Kote clear. I use a cheap Preval sprayer to apply the Klass Kote clear, before i sand. Top coat clear, primers or colors are sprayed with my Anest Iwata LPH-80. No issues with Klass Kote. Richard D
 
I have been using Klass Kote #405 and #40 seals great sands great but if your just doing one boat your going to have alot left over for your next boat. after shipping it's about $80 bucks
just to clarify here:Klass Kote #405 is side-B Gloss catalyst, epoxy paint

Klass Kote #40 is side-A Clear, epoxy paint

You're essentially applying Klass Kote clear epoxy paint to raw un-finished wood (to seal complete hull), maybe two coats, then sanding smooth?

Are you then using Klass Kote primer (white #55, for example), plus Primer Catalyst (white fast #420, for example), over sections that you wish to color finish? Then applying Klass Kote Color side-A epoxy paint, combined with Gloss Catalyst (#405, for example), using sprayer?

Trying to decipher whether finishing epoxy glue (West Systems #105, for example) is better used as a wood sealer as opposed to Klass Kote clear epoxy paint?
OK,this is Joseywales talking now and adding my 2 cents in.. Thats why we'd had troubles with our paint lifting on these two hulls. He's using that clear to seal those hulls with,not a good idea. Most guys are using epoxy like west,mas or aeromarine epoxy to glue and seal the hulls with,plus by doing that makes the hull stronger and durable too. For wood finish,we put two coats of aeromarine epoxy and whipe it off with a rag. Them we lighty razor blade the raised wood hairs off. then use a red scotch bright pad them and there ready to paint. On the smaller JAE's you don't want to prime them,that adds weight to them. These rigger are very sentive to added weight. We was told by most guys they don't prime there small wooden boats,just paint over the epoxy finish. The bigger wooden boat you can prime them,but don't get to crazy with primer.
 
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I will add to this conversation..... Klass Kote is an Awesome Paint... I am not sure how well it is for sealing a boat but for a paint purpose its the best. I recently had a boat painted I am guessing with some auto paint.... I love the colors, boat is as bright as can be and I love it. There is a slight problem, I am use to Klass Kote Paint and its durability. Example would be I had an issue where the glue from my radio box tape would stick to some of my Klass Kote Paint.... a easy and simple fix for removing that glue in a pinch was a little 60% nitro on a rag and it would melt that glue away ( had no effect on the paint). Well with my new boat/paint job (auto paint) I had a little 60% come out my engine compartment drain hole (stupid mistake didn't pinch off the carb when fueling and fuel came out the carb).... well that little bit of fuel on the auto paint made it wrinkle in less than 1 minute. I will keep the auto paint but will have the paint fixed and re-cleared with Klass Kote..... In my opinion its Awesome.

I guess one day I will be as worried about boat weight as some are..... Try and build your boat strong and reliable and colorful ( Ya want if to be seen if it stops on the water). Most of the Boats ya see winning races are built to Heat Race.... which I will say is a little heavier than a trials boat and if its not then the driver of the ultra light heat race boat is a very seasoned builder/racer and is very confident in there driving skills..... I myself have hit buoys and probably will hit some more before i am considered one of the better drivers.... so a little stronger and heavier is for me....

Paul
 
Yeah, I'm all about building stronger hulls.

Looks like the use of epoxy resin (glue) is best as a wood sealer, especially on outriggers constructed of wood. Seems to provide more strength and a great base for epoxy paint products.

I always felt (2-part) epoxy paints are best as top coats (color and/or clear coat), as they are most resilient/fuel proof. I have mostly used K&B Superpoxy product over the years. Plan to use Klass Kote now.
 
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i have used class kote to seal ALL my boat for the last 4yrs or so..

think about it.. west is good. but not for sealing.. reason is it is THICK.. you can put it on.. wipe it off and it don't WICK into the wood that well. i used to use west to seal but not any more.. the class kote clear is thin and wicks into the wood great.. I brush one coat on.. wipe it off. brush another wipe it off let it sick.. scuff it the next morning put one more coat on wipe it off.. scuff it and then i can shoot my final kote.

i am always trying to save weight on the boat and this will help and you won't loose anything STRUCTURALLY.

chris
 
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Top coat clear, primers or colors are sprayed with my Anest Iwata LPH-80. No issues with Klass Kote
thanks for the tip on the Preval sprayer, great product for good price. I've been using a DeVilbiss gun for applying primer, color coat, and clear coat. I may consider an Iwata LPH-80, it seems better suited for small/moderate jobs. Which size nozzle are you using .8 ?
 
any epoxy resin is just thick heavy epoxy paint,won't soak in and just adds weight,with no additional strength.klass kote is the only thing i would use.have used auto paint,it does what cheese says,and wrinkles.
 
for what its worth,,,,, if your getting a crinkle on automotive clear,,, you either;;;

A) bought the cheapest crap you could put your hands on.........

B ) mixed the two parts incorrectly....

C) have not given sufficient time to lock out........

ppg 2021 is what i use,,, ive literally sealed wood hulls with it with 0 epoxy applied before hand...wanna talk about wicking......ppg is what i use,,, i cant speak for other brands,,,but to this day ive never had an issue with ppg clear...

just my 02
 
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we had a boat painted by a PAINTER PRO that does alot of boats for alot of people.. looked nice.. lasted 1 day.. got fuel in the bottom of the boat.. pealed it down to the primer.. if i have to wipe out the boat everytime i use it.. it ain't worth it.
 
never had that issue chris,,,, my rigger is sealed with ppg,,, and ive had a whole 4oz tank of 60% empty into the engine well.... again,,,that pro painter could have said ahhh,,whats it matter its an rc boat...... fact is he will most likely never fess up to what he used...... improper mixing will cause major durability issues in automotive clear.. as will not letting primer voc out long enough before base or other is applied over it..... cases a vapor barier that will absolutely cause curing issues.....nitro should not come in long term contact with clear for at least a week... it needs time to lock out... if its still vaporing off,,then it can let stuff in...

anyway,,just my experience.....
 
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