that someone was jerry wyss. had a person that was going to be making head buttons. all my experience is with .21 k&b ob's. head buttons make a big difference. of the 4 i have tried, the stock thick button (large 'double bubble' shaped chamber, angled squish band) is slowest. stock thin button (much smaller, shallower single bubble chamber, very slight angled squish band) is good, one that was cut out of a air cooled gold ss, to work with a water jacket (turbo cuts, almost flat squish band, chamber very similar to thin button) is better/faster. one more, a stock thin one (custom turbo cuts, and thinned to give more adjustability in squish clearance) is fastest, but hardest to get set up right, i.e.-mixture, prop, boat set up.the one cut out of a air cooled gold head is the best compromise between speeed and ease of set up, imo. seems to be smoother on the power, doesn't explode when it stages, nice and progressive. very easy to drive. couldn't really say why, kida a 'shade tree' kinda guy. as long as it works, i'm happy.that, and i ENJOY going to the pond with a few head buttons, pipes and props for the day. burning nitro and having fun trying to learn
. don't get much better, imo. all of these things we are discussing are good, but each one (head button, ex. timing, intake timing, prop and HULL SET UP) have to work together, or it's a waste of potentially good parts. if 1 single thing doesn't work well, it doesn't mean that it's not a good idea, might just need other things to work WITH it. not the parts, but the sum of the parts.