PX-300 Electronics installation - pics?

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Christian Holmstedt

Well-Known Member
Joined
Jun 14, 2014
Messages
63
The FE VS-1 build thread is really good.

Thought I should ask how the installation is supposed to be done in the PX-300. The instructions are lacking for that step.

What and how have You done it? Would be nice to see some examples.

Thx

Christian
 
Receiver up frnt with the servo, then the 4s lipo, then the esc at the back. Be sure to use a radio with good end point control on the steering servo. I used a 3pks Futaba, Savox 1256TG servo, @ 28% steering range, and also adjusted the servo speed down to react slower, and go back to zero degrees slower. Hope this helps, Mike
 
Thanks, I will be using a 3PKS to start with and a Airtronics 358 analog 200 oz servo for steering. Very likely I'll be fitting an EagleTree system with GPS.

The rear bulkhead (not the one where the outboard mounts) is open so I was curious as to why it was made that way. It'll need to be sealed off to make a radio box.
 
Sorry I missed this

Here are a couple of pics of my setup..

I've changed it a bit since this.. I dont use double boots anymore only the outside one now

And my receiver gets bagged and placed behind the servo and the battery in front of the speed control

This set up seems to get the cg in the right place

radio box 1.jpg

radio box 2.jpg

radio box 3.jpg

300-2.wmv
 

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Thank you for the pictures.
default_smile.png


I will probably block off the rear bulkhead and leave the rear 'compartment' open. Working on a quick adjust (height) engine mount and need access to the screws/bolts holding the engine.

Assembly is slow... got most parts including an EagleTree eLogger.
 
Ok..

But FYI...

We found turning the OS motor mount around, and mounting the bottom of the mount flush with the bottom of the tunnel is a very good setup.

DSC_2308.JPG

DSC_2309.JPG
 
Just picked up the PX300 from David Newton, which was an unfinished build. The PDF instructions David sent me might be incomplete. The actual instructions stop at page 29, installing the top sheet to the center section. Is there more details to finishing up the build? The instructions do not cover the glueing of the spoons to the center section. It's not like I've never built a tunnel in my lifetime. So it should be easy enough to finish without those final steps. This is however my first EP boat. My one question is: What is being used to seal the motor wires coming out of the radio box? I was thinking of using Permatex Ultra Copper. It once sealed my Jeep's gas tank to allow me to drive 2 hours home after a rough day of wheel'n.
 
If it is OK with Paul Renna (who now sells these) I can post the instructions I got with the kit. It doesn't cover the radio box build but pretty much everything up to that point.
 
Actually I'm working on that portion of the instructions now. I've attached what I have so far, but will have the rest soon

Been struggling for an installation method that is simple but effective. I'm really striving to make building and setup easy for the first time boater if I can

I've tried different sealing methods including special heat shrink tubing, but they are VERY expensive

I don't like silicon, I used DAP caulking in the pics above , seems to works very well and will come off and cleans up easily.

Stay tuned, I'll update this shortly

OPPS SORRY wrong file, this is correct

NX300.pdf
 

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Mark

I updated David's kit a while back, I sent him a new lexan cowl and the new Stumble block design so you may need these (see attached)

If you have any other question Please feel free to call or contact me ([email protected])

P.S

You probably already have a prop in mind, but just in case we've found the M445 works really well on this hull also

And if I may suggest start with the depth of the motor mention above and start with 0 angle on the motor. This hull doesn't seem to like too much negative angle

Cowl Instructions.pdf

stumble block installation.pdf
 

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Paul,

I'm wondering if you have the other boats in this series available, the PX335, or only the 300. What is the price of either one or both? They are really nice boats. I saw the build thread from Mike way back in 2009 I think. The only place I could find them was from Europe. Are you here in the US? Please give me some more information. Are they the same as the one in Mike's build thread, All tabbed and locked together?

Thanks,

Bob Horowitz
 
Hello Bob

Yes these are Mike's kits.. (I've attached a current price list for your review )

And yes we still have the PX-335 you saw in the build thread

But here are some of the changes we've incorporated into these outstanding designs

1) New detailed instruction booklet

2) Introduced a new Lexan Cowl for (the 300 series kits only at this time), these cowls come with a life time guaranteed from crash damage

3) New complete hardware kits, these kits include all the hardware necessary to install your radio and motor on to our hulls

4) Trimmed fiberglass cowls, we now include a white gel coats fiberglass cowl that's trimmed at the factory to fit your hull (Except the 300 series hulls)

5) Vinyl windshield sticker

6) New Stumble block design for improved cornering

7) Coming Soon, clear Lexan Radio box cover

We are also announcing new kits due to be released soon

NX 335 33.5" Nitro Hull for Super Sport 7.5 class

NX365 36.5" Nitro Hull for the Stock or Modified 7.5

PX365 36.5 FE Hull, our entry into the "Q" FE class

NX400 40" Nitro Hull for Modified 7.5 and .67 Outboard class

PX400 40" A slightly longer Hull for rougher water courses for the "Q" FE class

We are located in Southern California and been testing and racing at Legg Lake recently

Here is a picture of my PX-335

WH pic 17-sm.jpg

Tunnel hull product description.pdf
 

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Paul,

Thanks for your quick response. I'm just finishing a Kep's 4SL. When I get my bench cleared off I'll give you a shout. I think the 335 will be my next build. Probably about a month from now.

Thanks again,

Bob
 

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