Please Help The New Guy Build His VS1 Tunnel Boat

[Danny Cruz]

Hi guys, after weeks of jumping around from forum to forum and talking to guys like Ron Olson, Julian Conde, Gene (Slideblues), Glenn Quarles, Don Maher and blackout, I'm finally building my first boat after many years. I've settled on a VS1 due to the ease of build and engine maintenance, although I original wanted to build a .21 mono with a NovaRossi.

Apart form the engine which I just bought used from Tom Foley here, I'm buying everything else new. I was going to go with a brand new air-cooled OS, but due to the fact there's no racing around here anyway, there's no point in spending extra money to try and be the fastest. Plus, if I really wanted to, with the extra $200 I could buy a TT engine to have in the box as a spare. Or an NR 5-port and a used lower unit.

So essentially, below is a list of the parts I'm ordering for the boat (including the boat itself), from radio to servos to accessories. What I would like is you all to suggest whether I should change a thing or two for a better performing boat. Also, I might have a question or two about some extra things I might need, like what kind of epoxy, glue, extra bolts... etc.

We here we go:

1. Boat: Aquacraft VS1 - $149

2. Engine: OS .21 XM - Used $250

3. Radio: Futaba 3PM-X - $179.00 (3 channel for an eventual needle control on future boats)

4. Steering Servo: Futaba 9402 - $80.00 (If overkill, then Futaba S3305 Standard size MG - $34.99)

5. Throttle Servo: Futaba S3115 Micro Precision - $19.99

6. Receiver Battery Pack: Futaba NR4QBV - $17.99

7. Prop: GrimRacer 40x52 3-Blade - $21.99

8. Radio Box Tape: Aquacraft GrimRacer -$19.99

9. Fuel: 2 Quarts of GrimRace 30% Nitro to start things off.

Optional Accessories (I'll be running in saltwater):

1. Marvel Mystery Oil

2. WD40

3. Corrosion X

I'll also need a starter, glow plug lighter and fuel pump unless my dad ship's mine over from Puerto Rico. I'm happy to buy these used, so feel free to offer if you have good ones.

Those of you that have built this boat (Slide, blackout and GrimRacer - that includes you What else do I need?

Here are some relevant questions:

- Do I need any extra fuel line?

- Other accessories you guys find handy with this boat?

- Do I need the 4 bolts to mount the engine onto the transom, or does the boat kit include them?

- Do I need extra epoxy? If so please recommend.

- I should probably get a spare prop - If so, the GrimRacer 2 blade or an Octura 440? to complement the GrimRacer 3-blade I'll order with the boat.

- Any extra lubrication for the engine needed?

- How many extra glow plugs show I order?

- What kind of battery do you guys use for your field equipment? I used to carry a car battery around, but that's just too dang big.

I have a good soldering iron I can use for the cable ends if needed.

I'll go ahead an use this thread as a build thread with pics too so I'll keep it updated as I move along.

Oh, I'll likely start a build article on my website floatways.com as a sort of a build-project/review thing. The site's mostly about real-size-boat stuff, but it'll fit just fine.

Thanks, Danny

 

[ww29]

do away with the pull pull cable it keeps stretching. use 4-40 pushrods

 

[Danny Cruz]

Thanks ww29 - Noted! I see you have both the TS3 and VS1 - Which do you like best?

 

[ww29]

i will be running the vs1 for first time this weekend. others racing them are fast

 

[ozbryan]

I've been running my vs1 for about a year and a half I think now and my cable system is fine. I quite like it actually.

I'm putting the cable system into my new FE project.

 

[Slideblues]

Hey Danny,

You already downloaded the manual, so when your VS1 arrives,

Verify the items in the box,there are 11 including the decal sheet.

Yes the mounting bolts for the OS are in tha kit.

Extra fuel line always handy for stuff,like make'n sure a clevis stays shut.

Motorcycle batteries are what I use to power up starter.

12 minute epoxy is what MIke recomends.

Follow his Grimracer says, they are all good tips.

Glow plugs I carry bout 5 with me.

Small set hex wrenches and open end/box combo always handy,needle nose pliers, small screwdriver.

Nice to have spare prop just in case you hit a log or other submerged object.

I know its exciting, But take your time and do it per Mikes instructions,

I use 4-40 pushrods too,but thats just my taste.

Gene

 

[Danny Cruz]

Those cables remind me of guitar wire. I'm pretty sure you can pre-stretch it until it stretches no more. Before even building the boat. Might be worth a shot.

@Gene - Got it! Thanks!!!!

 

[RodneyPierce]

Danny, your in good hands following the "grimracer says" sections. After all, he is the kat that designed the boat

 

[SayMikey]

You may not be happy with that prop right off,Id opt for a Octura m440 to start with. To pull that 40x52 a lot of setup time is needed. Dont try to bust off some fast laps go easy and learn as you go.

 

[Danny Cruz]

Plus, I've heard from some guys that since saltwater is denser it's often better to have less prop than when running the same boat in freshwater. Dunno.

 

[moparbarn]

very true about water density. just remember, pretty much anything that affects a full scale boat will affect our hulls the same way. either running conditions or adjustments. try some stainless stranded vinyl coated fishing leader wire for steering cables, stretching isn't an issue. it & the ferrules to crimp it are easily found at any salt water fishing shop. when you get ready to crimp the cables, after you go through the terminal hardware & back through the ferrule, loop around the outside of the ferrule & back through it again. you will end up passing the wire through the ferrule 3 times. that will elimniate any pulling out or slipping at the crimp. a lot of folks mistake that for cable stretch.......

btw, there's a reason grimracer designed the boat with cables, imho.

 

[Tim leyde]

Danny

I went wireless this year and love! You don't need a big battery or box. I have a 5000mah 14.8 hard case LiPo connected to my starter and bought a Dynamite LiPo glow starter and your all good.

I attached a pic of the starter.

Tim

 

[Danny Cruz]

@moparbarn - Thanks for the tips. I'll do that. @Tim That's much better than hauling around a battery. How much for those battery packs more or less?

 

[LarryConrad]

I would suggest a metal gear micro servo for the throttle I use Futaba 3102's for throttle and 3rd channel in all my boats except my 90 twin. 3305 is an excellent steering servo. My first tunnels I ever rigged had 440 pushrods for steering,then I switched to using pull pull cables, and never looked back.They are easier to rig, and you end up with a cleaner more compact installation. As Robin suggested, I also use nylon coated fishing leader material. The setup that comes with the VS1 works great. A 40X53/2 blade would be a better choice for starting with than the 40X52/3. Set up the boat as indicated in the build instructions, and fine tune to your taste in driving style and wind/water conditions from there.

Larry

 

[Chris Wood]

my buddy wally marsh uses the cable systems and i believe he gets a prestressed coated cable from mcmaster carr if i remember.

MUCH CHEAPER than going to the hobby shop and you can get a ton of it

chris

 

[Grimracer]

Danny,

You have a good start and everybody here can help you.

The VS-1 is a very formidable competitor and in time you will be as fast at the "fast guys"

Keep us posted.

Grimracer

 

[Danny Cruz]

@Larry - I hear everything you're saying there... I have a couple of questions though...

1. When you rig the steering with fishing line, you still feed it through nylon sheaths? Or do you feed the cable straight out through the radio box seals with no sheaths? It makes sense that if you use long enough pushrod seals, you could glue the cable with the seal with silicone so no water can get in, and the seal could stretch out and press in with movement. No need for a sheath. But of course, the cables need to come straight out towards the engine and have a bit of tension. Maybe I'm talking out of my a$$ and this is completely wrong. Just a thought. You guys can tell me.

2. Apart from having to balance only 2 blades, why is a 2 blade easier to deal with than the 3-blade prop. I'm sure I'll get both and experiment though.

I'll consider adding a 3rd channel right from the get-go. Should be pretty simple if I use small servos for the throttle and mix. Any of you guys running a 3rd channel on an OS OB?

@Chris - cool, that's good to know. It's not like I need a whole lot of cable, but if it's a better and more inexpensive option - great!

@grimracer - Thanks Mike... I'm sure the boat is great out of the box. We all love to customize to our own tastes. Looks like I'm in the right place. -Danny

 

[Grimracer]

Keep up the good work Danny,

The cable that comes in the kit is good cable for the pull pull system. If you are going with a pull pull.. its about as good as it gets. It does not stretch and is very tough. BTY. you dont want to run the cables TIGHT.. just lighty snug. After the frist few runs re-snug and your good to go. Its also easy to use the cable output that comes with the kit..

I dont use a 3rd channel on my OBs

Grimracer

 

[Slideblues]

One added note,figure on spending some time smoothing out your stumble blocks.

Mine were rough as a cobb,Yours might be better.

Gene

 

[Danny Cruz]

Slide... I see! There's no sheaths coming out of there. Just bare cable. Cool. I have the image in my head of the old Prather sheath cable systems.

@grim - Got it, thanks.